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Best non-antifreeze coolant additive substitute

j-c-c-62

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First I am a South Florida resident, if/when it ever gets to freezing, it's seldom long enough to freeze an engine. That risk I can accept and manage. I have too many animals that would love to savor the sweet deadly taste of typical antifreeze.
I am not sure why I have to use the stuff, besides lack of real need, safety of the animals, cost, and disposal issues to name a few concerns.

The cheapest straight antifreeze by the gallon at Walmart is in the $11 range out the door. I mainly need a water pump lubricant and anti-corrosion solution. It seems the few non antifreeze additives offered are in 11-16oz containers and in the $8-18 range. I'd buy it in bulk if more economical. Can't imagine it has a short shelf life.

I got maybe 14? vehicles/systems (cars/trucks/forklifts/generators/etc) I want to change out and make my life a lot easier.

Any suggestions?
 
You don’t need a water pump lubricant (sealed bearings). You do need anti- corrosion. I think a coolant based on propylene glycol would be your best option. Distilled water and a low percentage of PG, would be pretty pet safe vehicle safe option.
 
I'll have to disagree, if you run an electric water pump on water, and pour in any kind of system lubricant, the pump will speed up you can hear it. Proof is in the pudding on the ceramic seal. Corrosion resistance is equally important.
Run your favorite blend of water wetter, hyper cool, whatever, they have it built in. And it cools better
 
First I am a South Florida resident, if/when it ever gets to freezing, it's seldom long enough to freeze an engine. That risk I can accept and manage. I have too many animals that would love to savor the sweet deadly taste of typical antifreeze.


How are animals going to drink coolant in a sealed system? There's millions of cars in Florida and other warm weather states, and this is a concern to only you?


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Sounds like you're well off enough to just use what Jay Leno uses: Evans Waterless Coolant.
 
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How are animals going to drink coolant in a sealed system? There's millions of cars in Florida and other warm weather states, and this is a concern to only you?


View attachment 1859611
Except no system is forever sealed, and the coolant often needs to be drained for upgrades, etc.
The Florida aspect is only mentioned because there is little need as I see it for antifreeze in the first place, and following the herd is an inherent trait I seem not to share.
I have no qualms/regrets about being more cautious for the safety of animals than maybe others.
And my mother said I was special. :lol:
 
I have 8 vehicles in the garage, the newest is 11 years old. Mileage ranges from 80k {my 91 Daytona turbo) to 285k (Cummins).

None leak coolant. Oil, PS fluid, ATF....sure. But no coolant. And any leaks are drips, not puddles. A drip of coolant will make a pet sick - maybe -but it takes a cup or more to cause serious problems.

Any leaks are a drip or drop that I notice and remedy quickly. Most recently, a failed water pump seal on the Cummins.

Coolant is the safe bet. Anti corrosion. Lubricity. Ease of replacement if you're away from home and have an issue. Keep the bottles sealed on the shelf so no animals get into them.

I've run water wetter in my track bike (no coolant allowed on racetracks) but change it back to coolant soon as race season is over due to the anti corrosion qualities.
 
I have 8 vehicles in the garage, the newest is 11 years old. Mileage ranges from 80k {my 91 Daytona turbo) to 285k (Cummins).

None leak coolant. Oil, PS fluid, ATF....sure. But no coolant. And any leaks are drips, not puddles. A drip of coolant will make a pet sick - maybe -but it takes a cup or more to cause serious problems.

Any leaks are a drip or drop that I notice and remedy quickly. Most recently, a failed water pump seal on the Cummins.

Coolant is the safe bet. Anti corrosion. Lubricity. Ease of replacement if you're away from home and have an issue. Keep the bottles sealed on the shelf so no animals get into them.

I've run water wetter in my track bike (no coolant allowed on racetracks) but change it back to coolant soon as race season is over due to the anti corrosion qualities.
Leaks are a minor concern for me.

The propylene glycol offering appears to be 3x the cost of regular full-strength antifreeze.

Seemed like this offering might check all the boxes for my situation. I really don't care if it lowers the water temp, as long as it does not raise it.
Typical antifreeze is a poorer coolant than plain water and few complain about antifreeze cooling properties.

610V159RAWL._AC_SL1002_ coolant.jpg
 
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I have reached out to "Motor Medic" to see if they offer their product in 1 gallon or larger bulk quantities.
If not, I'll start out with the "Rislone" additive posted previously and see how that goes.

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Heh... heh... heh... I've got the perfect elixir for ya, my sweetie.... been using for a hunnert years... 50/50 Prestone/distilled water.
 
I have reached out to "Motor Medic" to see if they offer their product in 1 gallon or larger bulk quantities.
If not, I'll start out with the "Rislone" additive posted previously and see how that goes.

View attachment 1860490
I run the hyper cool in our race cars. Good stuff, it works

And it's not that it lowers coolant temperatures.. it conducts more heat out of the metal and puts it into the radiator to be diffused.
 
Here's a pretty well thought out test: https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/0703-turp-cooling-system-additives/

I put a water pump lubricant in plus the "wetting agent" as extra protection with reverse osmosis water. I also test my systems out for Electrolysis by dipping the positive end of voltmeter into the fluid and ground to the body.

You should have less than 300mV (.3 volts) in your coolant system. Test with a multimeter ground and one side dangling in the coolant.

Over 300mV and you have an electrolysis issue. That comes from:
  • worn radiator fluid
  • stray voltage in your electrical system making a path to the fluid (bad grounds)
  • electricity built up as fluid passes over dissimilar metals

The picture shows my system at 76 mV (.076 volts)

IMG_1112.JPG
 
Here's a pretty well thought out test: https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/0703-turp-cooling-system-additives/

I put a water pump lubricant in plus the "wetting agent" as extra protection with reverse osmosis water. I also test my systems out for Electrolysis by dipping the positive end of voltmeter into the fluid and ground to the body.

You should have less than 300mV (.3 volts) in your coolant system. Test with a multimeter ground and one side dangling in the coolant.

Over 300mV and you have an electrolysis issue. That comes from:
  • worn radiator fluid
  • stray voltage in your electrical system making a path to the fluid (bad grounds)
  • electricity built up as fluid passes over dissimilar metals

The picture shows my system at 76 mV (.076 volts)

View attachment 1860583

I didn't know bout checking it like that, thanks for the tip.... i usually just run water in the summer but when i got my aluminum radiator they made it sound like it will rot out overnight if water touches it..
 
I didn't know bout checking it like that, thanks for the tip.... i usually just run water in the summer but when i got my aluminum radiator they made it sound like it will rot out overnight if water touches it..

I have aluminum: heads, intake, water pump, radiator. So the water passing through dissimilar metals can pick of electricity. The Justice Brothers Cooling System protector has something in it to resist that electricity build up. It has water emulsified oil in it like what's used for machining metals to cool the bits.
 
When I first got my rebuilt 440 on the road I just used distilled water and a bottle of Water Wetter. Runs cool, never over 200 degs even in stop and go traffic.

When winter got closer I drained out about a gallon and added green antifreeze until it tested to just 20 degrees below. Topped off with distilled water. I have a aluminum radiator and after seven years it still looks clean inside.

Water displaces heat much better than antifreeze so the less antifreeze you can get by with for your climate the better. Water Wetter has water pump lubricant and anti corrosion inhibitors.
 
When I first got my rebuilt 440 on the road I just used distilled water and a bottle of Water Wetter. Runs cool, never over 200 degs even in stop and go traffic.

When winter got closer I drained out about a gallon and added green antifreeze until it tested to just 20 degrees below. Topped off with distilled water. I have a aluminum radiator and after seven years it still looks clean inside.

Water displaces heat much better than antifreeze so the less antifreeze you can get by with for your climate the better. Water Wetter has water pump lubricant and anti corrosion inhibitors.

being a caveman with a garden hose nearby..... it got water.. then when it got cold i drained it and put in antifeeze... i take this thing apart so much i would go broke buying AF :)
 
being a caveman with a garden hose nearby..... it got water.. then when it got cold i drained it and put in antifeeze... i take this thing apart so much i would go broke buying AF :)

That's why I used distilled water during the break in period. Always use distilled water. It's cheap at your local store. Well water or city water is full of minerals that will build up and corrode.

Also something I did was get a ph test kit and check your coolant.
 
That's why I used distilled water during the break in period. Always use distilled water. It's cheap at your local store. Well water or city water is full of minerals that will build up and corrode.

Also something I did was get a ph test kit and check your coolant.

yeah, i'm putting it back together this week i think i'll do that... last time it was more like... i wanna drive! grab the hose :)
 
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