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Black Oxide and RPM (Rust Preventive Magic) Combo??

Islandkent

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Hey guys. Another Saturday evening in the shop watching the hockey game. After following many members tips and tricks during their restorations. I have been following Black_ Sheep's GTX thread lately and of course anything that Wayne does aka dadsbee. Well I seen Mark using that Caswell black oxide treatment and thought why not? Since we can purchase that up here in Canada now. Because I believe that we couldn't get that here a few years ago. And when Wayne was doing the Super Bee he coated most of his bare metal with RPM
So tonight I tackled my UCA bolts like Mark did. Loved the look of them. So I bead blasted, cleaned and then did the oxide treatment. Soaked them in some WD-40 and was letting them dry. As per the directions. Then I got thinking about Wayne's RPM treatment. So why not. Took out the heat gun, heated up the cam bolts gave them a good coating of RPM. I knew the RPM would make the parts slightly darker. I think they turned out pretty good look wise plus maybe a bit better protection from rust.
Here are a few pictures of tonight's experiment. Anybody ever do this? Over Kill??

BO RPM.JPG


BO RPM 1.JPG


BO RPM 2.JPG


BO RPM 3.JPG
 
In warm weather, the RPM paste seeps into the metal on it's own. When it is cold, I've used a hand held torch to warm up the parts to get the paste to flow. It always results in the part looking a bit darker but I'm okay with that.
 
Anything like that will help keep the rust away. Incidentally Wayne uses Boeshield T9 which is a possibly a superior product to RPM. I have RPM myself and have had good results from it. As Kern suggested, warming the part allows it to flow into threads and crevices.
 
You know it guys. Yes I used a heat gun once they were treated with the blacking solution. Too hot to touch worth. lol Then I gave them a real good coating with the RPM. Like I said I knew they would help to darken up the bolts better. (Evaporust does the same thing. Darken the metal slightly) Adding to the proper phosphate coating look. Yeah I knew Wayne jumped the fence on the RPM and went the way of the Boeshield when some of his steering parts began to slightly rust. I think it might have been the idler arm maybe?? I often wondered because of it's proximity to the heat of the exhaust manifold/pipes maybe the RPM coating was compromised?? But when I was reading his Bee sticky the RPM was a GO! lol So I picked up a couple of jars. I will be using it up on stuff nowhere near a heat source.
I think next time I phosphate treat any parts, I'm going to bead blast them. Then give them a good cleaning. Then heat them up with heat gun again then dip them in the blacking solution. From what I've been reading it might get the phosphate deeper down in the metal?? And then treat them in some WD let them drip dry. Then do the RPM thing. I really can't see it hurting. And I'm not going to do any rust testing. All I know is I went out to the shop this morning (after a big three hour sleep) and threaded the nuts on to the bolts with out having to clean any paint off the threads.
I like that. Bigger picture for better viewing.

BO RPM 4.JPG
 
sounds a lot like parkerizing..... I've done this with vintage Harley stuff

What Is Parkerizing?​

Parkerizing is a process of treating a metal to produce a Parkerized finish similar to bluing. The Parkerizing process was developed by Parker Brothers Metal Finishing Company, founding members of the Parker family have been involved in metallurgy for nearly 100 years. Parkerizing was first used during World War II on firearms and other weapons such as flashlights and knives. Parkerizing is also used on home appliances, automobiles, trailers, bicycles, tools and motorcycles today.

Parkerizing provides a better adhesion for protecting the metal from rusting or corroding. The Parkerizing process can be done by hand or with an automated dipping process that yields consistent results every time. It is considered environmentally safe because it’s a conversion process, not an application or paint. Parkerizing leaves no waste water or hazardous chemicals, and is used on steel parts only, it will not work with stainless steel.

Parkerizing - Advanced Technical Finishing

parkerizing - Google Search
 
I now it's not true to factory...but...I have blasted many parts, cleaned well with acetone or rubbing alcohol and then used the Black oxide method. The parts turn out really well. But in addition I often spray them with Flat Clear. They hold up extremely well and even if they get wet there is zero issue. The flat clear just makes them look a bit darker...not shiny at all.
 
Got them all in place now. No chipping paint! Have to like that. lol See that one peeking out through the access hole.

UCA.JPG
 
I parkerize guns. I mix up my own solution from scratch and it’s dirt cheap. Great for stuff that gets hunted hard and looks great, at least to me. Once the parkerizing is done I heat the parts to be hot to the touch and put bees wax on. It gets right into the pores of the parkerizing. The heat makes it thinner than water so it really penetrates. Then I blot off the excess with a paper towel. Did my first rifle more then thirty years ago, hunt it hard and it still looks like I did it yesterday.
 
Incidentally Wayne uses Boeshield T9 which is a possibly a superior product to RPM.
I used RPM on EVERY bare part on the Bee. The ONLY thing in.. ****.. 7 years now since I started the restoration and coating parts that has showed any sign of rusting was the steering box big nut that holds the input shaft adjuster in place. Nothing else has a speck of rust on it and I have been caught out in the rain, the son drove the thing through someones damn pool backwash on the street a few cruises ago and I do wash the car once a year with a hose. I just jumped to Boeshield when doing the Swinger as an easier, quicker system. Nothing on it has rusted in I guess 3 years now either.
 
I used RPM on EVERY bare part on the Bee. The ONLY thing in.. ****.. 7 years now since I started the restoration and coating parts that has showed any sign of rusting was the steering box big nut that holds the input shaft adjuster in place. Nothing else has a speck of rust on it and I have been caught out in the rain, the son drove the thing through someones damn pool backwash on the street a few cruises ago and I do wash the car once a year with a hose. I just jumped to Boeshield when doing the Swinger as an easier, quicker system. Nothing on it has rusted in I guess 3 years now either.
Yes, RPM is good. I did an acid test with it a few years ago with salty water and my test part did rust. Having said that, we baby these old cars now days and RPM holds up great under normal conditions. Like I said, I use it on my stuff and I like it.
 
For me the Caswell black is not as good as what I get done at the plating shop. Rpm has been flawless for me also. Boeshield is good but rpm attracts less dust. If I ever do another car, I would black zinc coat all of the fasteners under the car unless it was going to be points judged, so they stay nicer.
 
Oh I have no doubt that a plating shop would do a better job. But I think, from what I just witnessed last night. Caswell will do the trick. Picked up a quart for a little over a hundred Canadian dollars with shipping. Which will make up 9 quarts. Lots for me to finish the Charger. Nearest plating shop for me is Montreal. about 700 miles away. I hate shipping any of these original parts. Even nuts and bolts lol

Another question. Anybody know how long a mixed up batch of the solution would last in sealed container? It's Caswell Black Oxide I'm going to give the place where I bought it a shout tomorrow to see. Was just thinking somebody here might know. I'm going to google it here in a minute to see if it's already out on the net somewhere.
 
Thanks a bunch 4406bbl! I'll have that batch long gone by then. I was thinking like next weekend. lol
Any tips on storage? I have about a half a pint in a Tupperware dish in cool dark spot in a locker in the shop. Sound Okay??

Thanks again 4406bbl!
 
Anything airtight, it turns clear as it sits, if it gets a brown/rusty tinge to it I start with new.
 
a shot or wipe of wd40 now and then and it will last for ever........I put that **** on everything
 
Like I said in my build thread, black oxide needs to be sealed. I used Krown KL73, a commercial grade penetrant/corrosion preventer. I just hosed the parts and let them soak it up. It might not be as good as a professionally applied treatment, but for a home hobbyist the finished product should last a long time with minimal effort. Learning something new was fun too…
B3BFB9DF-1F6C-4FA8-B63C-38FCF12ED745.jpeg
 
You sold me on this stuff Mark. I did a few more bolts yesterday. I don't mind doing the RPM coating afterwards.

sway bar bracket bolts after.JPG
 
Well an update on the Saturday night shenanigans. Since Mark got me going on this treatment process I figured why not? I'm going to try this zinc/nickel plating thing. So I graduated from you tube plating school today. lol Did a few more front end parts this evening. I nickel plated the torsion adjusting bolts and swivels. Along with the strut rod retainers. Did the front and rear nuts too with the proper "Looking" finishes. Black oxide coatings on the lower shock nuts and bolts. Did the RPM thing on the sway bar end links since mine were in such good shape. Yes still treating the black oxide with the RPM once dry.

nickel 1.JPG


nickel 2.JPG
 
Here's my set up for plating. Most of the stuff just picked up in town. Had to get the nickel plates off of amazon. Good old peanut butter jars come in handy. Using fishing boat anodes for the zinc. Might give that a try tomorrow. The nickel does a better job at rust protection. Hence the nickel instead of zinc. Looks the same to me.

still.JPG
 
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