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Block strength

Well, it seems to have survived cam break in and the big boy valve springs got swapped on tonight to replace the break in springs. I'll run it a bit more N/A with the big springs and get a good valve adjustment, then it's time to stuff the turbo back on. The timing map has been checked, starting with 36* locked, no timing pulled until 5# of boost, then it pulls 1* per # of boost.
 
View attachment 1140145 View attachment 1140147 .550 hyd roller, 9.5-1 diamond pistons, eagle rods, Eddy heads, truck manifolds turned around backward, 750 E85 carb, no intercooler. 3.54 Dana push button 727 w/brake, 275 M/T radials. Ran it a couple of weeks ago right off the street without touching anything 9.82@138. Only has a roll bar, no cage. It'll be at Norwalk for Monster Mopar next weekend. Along with my street car since the 64 is still waiting on parts. Had this thing since 77. Been setting 10 years. Working all the little bugs out from prolonged storage. No it's not as fast as my sons. And the paint is 35 year old lacquer, a little ruff up close.
Doug
Zowe. look at that rocket ship motor. Making HP for sure.
 
Quick update.. It's together and running, finished up the 4" exhaust out the back yesterday. I have some minor little things to wrap up, and then hopefully some street tuning and a trip to the dyno before snow flies. Starting with my lowest spring pressure in the waste gates, which is 7#, I hope to work up to 15# by the end of the season.
 
The engine sounds strong and seems very rev happy. 15# should just about double the N/A power, so it should get pretty interesting if all goes well.
 
A quick update, I've gotten to drive it a bit, and overall its running very well. This blow through carb tuning sure is a bit different though, the low and high speed air bleeds have made a big difference in driveability.

The 275 radials aren't much use, 1/2 throttle in second gear just gets lots of wheel spin, and I've only seen a max of 5.8 pounds of boost. My old Dynamic 9.5" converter is flashing way too high, I'm dealing with PTC on a replacement for next year.
 
Latest update isn't much different, its very responsive, and up until at least 50 Mph, it spins very easily in second gear. I'm still only seeing boost in the 5# range, it either spins, or blows through the converter, but its a hoot to drive. I just ordered a custom PTC 9.5" converter, and found a deal on a really well built 727, so hopefully I'll have a better combo for next year.

The E85 is tough to get up to temp, I finally have the heads up to 160-170, with a 180 T stat. Trans temps never go above 150, its an odd fuel.
 
One nice thing about turbos is they keep the piston/rod combo loaded during the exhaust/intake stroke. The back pressure on the piston during the exhaust while small keeps the stretch at TDC intake to a minimum. Less shock load on the oil wedge while reducing bolt stretch ever so slightly.
 
Hello all.. I am very near wrapping up my latest build, a turbo 400 low deck engine, and I am already wondering how far I can honestly push my luck.
I have read and learned from friends that turbo builds pretty regularly produce higher numbers at a safe and repeatable level than most power adders, but its all speculation at this point.
Anyways, I'd love to hear from, or be pointed towards anyone with some real world experience that I can draw from regarding turbo charged Mopar low deck big blocks.
Thanks in advance guys, much appreciated!

My friend Randy, that goes by rdakota340 on TheTurboForums and elsewhere has been running a 400-based build for years, mainly on the street. He's lost a crank, and a few pistons in his 400/451, but the block has held up fairly strong. We both lost the #2 piston, that seemed to be the one that would let go due to fuel distribution in that cylinder with the Edelbrock Victor manifold (which was the best at the time).

My build ran around 8 PSI with a BW T6. Everything was a compromise however, and to me, the (safe) power levels with boost & 93-octane were similar to a modern 470" - 512" Chrysler N/A. Again, this was a street car, and not a drag car, there are many more variables involved. Over that period of time, I ran meth-injection as well as an air-to-water intercooler setup with a large ice tank in the trunk.

If I were to do it over again, it would be with a Procharger & E85. If you're already set up for the turbo build, definitely consider running E85 rather than pump-gas on the street [*Which it seems like you're doing!*]. My build was with a CSU Blow-Through carb [Gas].

I would run it fat also, 11.5-11.9 AFR @ WOT and make sure there are no lean spots under load. There is always a cylinder or two that will run leaner than the rest at peak torque, and does it really matter 'how many' pistons go when they do? Your tuning window is much shorter on a forced-induction build than N/A, can't afford to make mistakes and I would rather be down a bit on power tuning it safe, than trying to get more out of it.

In regards to gearing, I would go with either a 2.76 (26-27") -2.93 (29-30") gear depending on tire size. Converter around 2800-3200 stall speed.
 
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Thanks for the information Sweet5ltr, it's been pretty hard to come by, lol.

I am running E85, I have had many builders tell me it's one of the best things you can do to keep a turbo car happy, between the cold intake charge, and the high octane.

PTC built my converter and I have it, but I missed the chance to put it in before the snow flew here in VT. I'll have it and the new trans ready for the spring, as well as a Caltrac set up with good shocks as well.

I'm running an M1 intake, hopefully the fuel distribution is decent, otherwise I will find out the same way you did... The car is running on the rich side everywhere in the fuel curve, and I decided to leave it that way until I get more seat time.

I was on the fence between 2.94 gears and 3.23's, but I had a really clean set of 3.23's that went in with a spool and good yoke in the end.
 
Girdle on block.jpg
Satellite 11-10-2021 - YouTube Sorry, I guess I'm a little late to this post. Been boosted for 11 years now. Started with an old 383, and stepped up to a 470 in 2017.Home made 3/8" girdle&a half fill of Hardblock in a 75 block. Had a homebrewed blowthrough carb, but have since gone to the Sniper X-Flow(8 120 lb./hr. injectors) on E-85.Ported Edelbrock r.p.m. heads,M1 single plane,10:1 compression,s.f.t. cam 247-251,.546-.540, 115 lobe sep.,homemade ex. manifolds,9.5" Dynamic converter, 3.54 Strange Dana 60, 315-60-15 Mickey drag radials.My best advice is don't get greedy on timing,and bullet proof your boost control system. Running 22 degrees of timing and 11.5:1 a.f.r. on the gasoline scale at 11-12 lbs. of boost. Traction is an issue below 60-65 m.p.h. Here's an update with a 470 block pic CAM00180.jpg
 
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Excellent! You have more cubic inches than I do, but the rest of your combo is very close to mine, right down to the 9.5" Dynamic converter. I assume yours stalls a lot lower than mine, which goes to the moon if you attempt full throttle lol. Hopefully the new PTC is better.
 
Excellent! You have more cubic inches than I do, but the rest of your combo is very close to mine, right down to the 9.5" Dynamic converter. I assume yours stalls a lot lower than mine, which goes to the moon if you attempt full throttle lol. Hopefully the new PTC is better.
I had the converter and the cam made for the combo. If I short shift second gear under much load, it stalls back to about 4700 r.p.m. I had a cheap 10" in it toward the end of the 383 era, and it would blow right through it quickly. The Dynamic drives like a high stall for about the first 6 feet from a stop, but then drives like a "regular" converter. It goes down the highway at 65 m.p.h. only 50 r.p.m. higher than the 11" 2200 stall Fairbanks I started with. Got a lot of billet parts in it per their recommendation. It behaves and doesn't break. Money well spent. The cam is a Bullet from Little Johns Motorsports. Its a .875" Ford lobe on the in. side, and a .842"chevy lobe on the ex. I told them this was a street deal, and I didn't want something that was going to eat springs or lifters driving around.If I need more power, it's easier to get it with a twist of the wastegate controller than the cam lobes. I shift it at 6200.
 
Hello all.. I am very near wrapping up my latest build, a turbo 400 low deck engine, and I am already wondering how far I can honestly push my luck.
I have read and learned from friends that turbo builds pretty regularly produce higher numbers at a safe and repeatable level than most power adders, but its all speculation at this point.
Anyways, I'd love to hear from, or be pointed towards anyone with some real world experience that I can draw from regarding turbo charged Mopar low deck big blocks.
Thanks in advance guys, much appreciated!
I’ve just started on this very same combo. I’ll sonic check the block this afternoon. It’ll take the place of my hemi, currently running twin 76mm billet wheel Precisions. It’s probably making 1500hp at 17psi right now.
 
Excellent! I am sold on the turbo thing already, and It's great to see more people doing it, I'm sure this won't be my last one. My set up is pretty clean looking for a turbo build, I like that it looks pretty simple under the hood, I'll have to try to post a pic some time. Thanks guys.
 
We found the limit on the tune up in hot weather. Piston #2 as well. First time its melted and hurt one in years. 360, non intercooled, 9.5-1, E 85, 22 degrees, 22psi. The rest of the engine is perfect. Went 140mph on this pass
Doug
scotts piston.jpg
 
We found the limit on the tune up in hot weather. Piston #2 as well. First time its melted and hurt one in years. 360, non intercooled, 9.5-1, E 85, 22 degrees, 22psi. The rest of the engine is perfect. Went 140mph on this pass
Doug
View attachment 1197272
Holey moley! :eek:
 
The funny thing was it barely smoked out the exhaust.
Doug
 
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