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Blown Injected Hemi

Tranny ****...wait that don't sound good...

Looks like some trick pieces there.
 
Get the billet drum and the steel planets!
 

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Continuing with the conversion to automatic... Discovered leaking master cylinder. Now paint repair... AAAAGGGHHHH.
 

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Brake Assy ready. Fun fact; the foot pad is from the donor car and orig. 1964. Don't know if that's good or bad, but it is kind of cool....
 

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That sucks the MC was leaking

good thing you found it thou

good luck & keep on keeping on....
 
Great build,on the brake M/C I would flush the system and use Dot 5 silicone brake fluid.If it had Dot 5,you wouldn't have this problem.Just my 2 cents.
 
Hump removed. Class one pain but it's done. Can pick up a patch panel from a friends donor.

They've been busy on the trans. Hopefully I can drive down and pick it up next week. The goal is to fire before 7/13. We'll see.

I have two weeks off starting this Friday. Told DW I'd be in the shop from 4:30am to about 10am. Each day. And spend mid day and evening with her.
 

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Going with an aluminum rad?

Talked to bob at Glen Ray yesterday. He's sending an old E Body to test fit. If it works, they will build a max-cool unit for this build that he is comfortable with and will get the job done. And be Mopar. So I think the answer is, probably not. From what I've read there is a very small percentage (< 5%) difference in cooling performance when all things are equal.
 
Yeah a new aluminum rad would kill the 70's street freak vibe your going for.
 
Been thinkin about an aluminum rad to save some weight. Jennie Craig has got to me and I want to go on a diet. Anyone know the savings from a 4 row copper to aluminum??
 
Been thinkin about an aluminum rad to save some weight. Jennie Craig has got to me and I want to go on a diet. Anyone know the savings from a 4 row copper to aluminum??

When we nail down the price I'll let you know. thing is, Glen-Ray will be a little more $$ just because it's them. But I know it will be right.
 
My guess {I never actually weighed them} would be aluminum vs copper-brass 26" rad weight
is only maybe 10-15 lbs max, but that's just guessing, with a 22" less of course
I went with alum, for better flow {larger tubes}, better heat dissipation/dispersion/transfer,
{even if it's only slightly better 5%-10% -seems like more- it's allot better than nothing,
that takes a 200* engine down 10*-20*'s or more IMO, especially with a good additive}
& they're lighter, look great too...

after all taking almost any weight off the nose, never hurts these front heavy cars...

they did have aluminum rad.'s in the 70's too, Ron Davis, Griffin, Be-cool, Mancini Racing
I've always rubber washer mounted them, to help keep vibration & oxidation @ a min.
you can use an anode {Summit sells them IIRC} on/in the drain petcock hole,
to helps them live & not have electrolysis problems, in either style rad.'s,
I've been using alum. rad.'s for decades now

Hell used a POS late 70's-80's plastic tank cross flow
Alum core Scirocco/VW radiators in my Racecars for years

If you decided to go with alum., you can always paint it black too,
I never have thou...
I want all the cooling properties I can get,
especially on any performance builds...

Anyway;
I can't wait to see & hear the beast running... :headbang:
 
What a tool I am... I thought you meant price not weight Al.... DUH... Thanks for filling in the blanks Bud... BTW. I run "Water-Wetter" in my Challenger. makes all the difference in the world. Additives work on newer builds!
 
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