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Body panel welding

Michael789

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Hey gang , I was just talking to my cousin about the body work that is upcoming on my 71 satellite and he said that if you are welding in quarters to do them in the body line and not in the middle of a panel, his reasoning is that unless you tig weld it the weld seam will show through paint? He claims that if you use a mig welder that the material is harder than the body panels and won't contract the same in hotter temperatures. My quartes only need to be replaced at the low bottoms where trunk extensions meet. Anyone with any comments r welcome to chime in , thanks.
 
Never heard of it showing threw because the metal contracts differently although it is true that a MIG weld is harder making it hard to work with. Using a TIG makes for a softer weld allowing you to hammer the welds (expanding the metal) reversing the affects of the shrinking from the heat. I try to do all of my splices close to body lines because the lines stiffen the area making it less prone to warpage. I've seen many panels that where spliced in that never showed threw, it's important to weld them in correct and solid so they don't shift or flex "that will show threw after time".
 
I would only replace what's needed, not al the way up to the body line. You can use a flanging tool to stiffen the joint before you weld it. The flange should be hidden if it's as low as you say it is. They make easy gring wire for mig. I live in the rust belt and have migged lots of panels; I can't say I've ever had a problem with welds contracting differently. A pic would help get you good advice!
 
ive migged in many 1/4 skins and have never had a problem with seeing my weld lines..ive even ground down the inside area and undercoated it ike the factory and the fix is undetectable even to the professional trained eye.id like to think that I'm not the only one in the world that could pull that off theres gotta be a handful of us..lol
 
Everything that's been said x2. Use a quality filler on your seams. Sand your filler to a 320 grit then prime. Not 80 grit and hose the primer on .What people call weld telegraphing I call material shrinkage. 71 Satty should have a nice lower body line to fit up to unless it's really rusted. Always less headache to replace as little as possible.
 
Everything that's been said x2. Use a quality filler on your seams. Sand your filler to a 320 grit then prime. Not 80 grit and hose the primer on .What people call weld telegraphing I call material shrinkage. 71 Satty should have a nice lower body line to fit up to unless it's really rusted. Always less headache to replace as little as possible.

I agree. I don't like cutting right on a body line as it's hard to get it perfect. 1/2"-1" away keeps the structure enhancement of the body line w/o getting into it. That being said I always add as little as possible. I find but welding works bet unless your just learning. My 1/4s were rebuilt on the bottom due to rust and stretched 4". Can you tell?
Doug
 

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Wow that's nice work man, my cousin is a chevy guy so enough said there.I have plenty of welding experience through my work with many different gauges of steel I'm not worried about the quality of my welding. Thanks for all the replys guys.
 
If you but weld, leaving a gap thinkinkness of metal your welding you won't have any issues. If you flange the panel in a noticable area you will show thru. Most people can't tig. so if you are going to Mig like most do rthen leave a gap and use air blow to cool and hammer weld after eaach weld lite tap to keep from heat issues. Skip alot and keep a cool rag around with water.
 
I agree. I don't like cutting right on a body line as it's hard to get it perfect. 1/2"-1" away keeps the structure enhancement of the body line w/o getting into it. That being said I always add as little as possible. I find but welding works bet unless your just learning. My 1/4s were rebuilt on the bottom due to rust and stretched 4". Can you tell?
Doug


ALL that Beautiful work!!!!! just needed to be MOVED forward another 2-3 inches
I want my 64 back
 
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