• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

borgeson couplar

janbanan

Well-Known Member
Local time
1:13 PM
Joined
Dec 19, 2011
Messages
91
Reaction score
11
Location
amal
Just installed a borgeson steering box. Instructions tell me to cut the steering column, but mine is to short?
What do I need to make this work?
Borgesen.jpg
 
Look into the end of your column and determine what shape the hole is. Is it a DD with two flat sides and two rounded? If so, measure it to see what size, 1/2", 3/4"? Or is it splined? If so count the splines and how wide the hole is, 5/8", 3/4"? Your steering box should have info on the size of the spline of the output shaft. MOPAR is 5/8" x 36 spline, MOPAR ( Chrysler) only. There are other 5/8" x 36 spline which will not fit, needs to be MOPAR. Once you determine both ends then consult Borgeson for the correct U Joint with the correct steering shaft in between. Done. Oh, and once you get to ordering the shaft get one that is long enough to bridge the gap and trim it up once you have the right u joint on the output shaft of the box. I just finished mine.

1027181025.jpg 1027181026.jpg
 
Contact Bergman auto craft, they sell installation kits etc. Your car looks like a 73 up so it is important to have some movement in your coupler.
 
Look into the end of your column and determine what shape the hole is. Is it a DD with two flat sides and two rounded? If so, measure it to see what size, 1/2", 3/4"? Or is it splined? If so count the splines and how wide the hole is, 5/8", 3/4"? Your steering box should have info on the size of the spline of the output shaft. MOPAR is 5/8" x 36 spline, MOPAR ( Chrysler) only. There are other 5/8" x 36 spline which will not fit, needs to be MOPAR. Once you determine both ends then consult Borgeson for the correct U Joint with the correct steering shaft in between. Done. Oh, and once you get to ordering the shaft get one that is long enough to bridge the gap and trim it up once you have the right u joint on the output shaft of the box. I just finished mine.

View attachment 673803 View attachment 673804
When I look at your installation it seems like I need 2 u-joints and a short shaft between?
End of my steering column is round, no flat sides. If I order one u-joint with 3 holes and drill holes in column shaft, put a shaft with flat sides between and one u-joint with borgeson fittings. Would that work?
 
Contact Bergman auto craft, they sell installation kits etc. Your car looks like a 73 up so it is important to have some movement in your coupler.
Yes you are right, my car is a 73 charger. Need some movement in my coupler you say, does that mean I can not use u-joints on a 73 up, and if so why?
 
The k frame is rubber mounted, unless you have replaced the mounts with something solid. Even so there should be a little fore and aft movement in the coupler. Most stock cars of the era flex around a bit while driving over bumps etc, this can put strain on the steering column etc. Some people will disagree, but I think you need a stock type coupler. Bergman makes a stock type coupler for this, but from your picture there appears to be a lot of space between the shaft and box. I would contact them.
 
The k frame is rubber mounted, unless you have replaced the mounts with something solid. Even so there should be a little fore and aft movement in the coupler. Most stock cars of the era flex around a bit while driving over bumps etc, this can put strain on the steering column etc. Some people will disagree, but I think you need a stock type coupler. Bergman makes a stock type coupler for this, but from your picture there appears to be a lot of space between the shaft and box. I would contact them.
I have replaced the rubber with poly, but maybe you are right, it will probably be some movement there. Is that why I have a spring at the end of my column? Maybe I could take my stock coupler on the columnside and weld a double D shaft to it and a u-joint on borgesonside?
 
I don't know about b body after 1970. So maybe the best6 thing is to call Borgeson, or Sweet Manufacturing, or Flaming river and let them help you.
 
You mean to say the end of your column is just a round nub? Not hollow with splines or a smooth hole? If so then yes, you will need at least a straight coupler and a u joint off of the box shaft. Is the column tilt? Telescope? Mine is both as it is out of a 2006 Audi A6 and it's in my 67 Coronet. The u joint off the box shaft will give you a bit of give for movement. Mine has a u joint at the top as well because the Audi steering wheel assembly has tilt and telescope and has the u joint attached from the factory to allow for those movements. If your column/steering wheel does not move then I expect you only need the u joint at the steering gear box end. Remember to drill out a small depression anywhere you use a joint that has the set plugs with lock nuts. You need a place to seat those plugs as you tighten them down. Don't want your stuff to vibrate apart while zooming down the road.
 
The Borgeson box is only an inch or so shorter than the stock power steering box, so I have read. Why is there such a big gap there. Did you remove the stock steering box from the car?Is the column pulled back? The conversions that I have read about use the bergman coupler and it just bolts together like stock
 
Now I see. There is some form of rag joint in between the box and the normal coupler. Sorry for my ignorance.
 
I'm guessing a bit here, but you might be able to weld a borgeson splined coupling to your rag joint, and make it work.
 
Ahhh…...you have a rag joint with a shaft that bridges the gap. I see. Then depends on what the ends of the rag joint and shaft are like. If the rag joint upper end is a splined shaft you can get a coupler with the splined hole for the shaft on one end and a smooth bore hole to fit the upper end and weld it on.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top