Brake Booster Mounting Info Help Needed

[ga66mopar]

Well this is what I have underneath. Remember my car is a 66 and came without power brakes.
I guess that hole on the bottom of the plate is where the crank would attach. I got a 55 Belvedere also that I put the Mancini Manual brake master cylinder on and ran the rod straight to the pedal. I am thinking it might be best for this application if I can't find the parts to convert. Mopar parts down here are scarce.

That should work, hemi cars with brake boosters looks similiar to that. I have a 66 hemi car with power brakes I can take some pictures under the dash if you need.

 

[moparmarks]

I follow ya and no, not a pissing match, just a debate. Yes the Hemi setup is like the aftermarket setups, agree. OP posted a pick of the factory Midland Ross that he wants to use. I explained how THAT setup works. He didn't say that he wanted to shell out the big bucks for the Hemi setup.. Just say'n.

 

[moparmarks]

I was talking about the bellcrank outside of the firewall on hemi cars was similiar to what he had. The hemi bendix booster is different than the non hemi bendix booster but I'm sure you know that since you done 20 conversions.

The booster sits higher on the plate than the hole in master cyl on a non-power brake car on 66-70 b-body that's why it has a bellcrank. I have 3 four doors b-bodies with power brakes I use for parts car if you need a picture of the booster set up.
I don't really want to get in a pissing contest.

Do you have a pic of a 66-70 non hemi under dash crank on one of your 4-drs or do you have Hemi boosters on everything? I don't think I do right now. Still looking.

 

[snakeoil24]

What looks like an MBM Power brake duel 8 inch booster. These come with a lever. You might consider keeping the booster, it works pretty well. Go to MBM brakes for more info.

 

[moparmarks]

ga66mopar, come on down, your the winner of the debate. Heres a pick of my 72 crank. Later midland Ross non-Hemi. I did have it backwards. Booster is higher.
Man being of a curtain age and tired really sucks sometimes. Ya thats it. Old and tired.

 

[moparmarks]

What looks like an MBM Power brake duel 8 inch booster. These come with a lever. You might consider keeping the booster, it works pretty well. Go to MBM brakes for more info.

Bet your right. I did one of those a few years back. Forgot about the lever.

 

[Pugly]

What looks like an MBM Power brake duel 8 inch booster. These come with a lever. You might consider keeping the booster, it works pretty well. Go to MBM brakes for more info.

Well it doesn't work very well. The pedal sits really low and on normal braking it works fine, but if you really have to stand on the brakes it gets really hard really fast. I couldn't even get the brakes to lock up from a 40mph roll.

In all the cars I have built I haven't had one MPB set up with that little diaphragm that worked well. I have had some with larger Brake boosters and they worked well.

Anybody want to sell one of those bell cranks?

 

[ws27]

Well it doesn't work very well. The pedal sits really low and on normal braking it works fine, but if you really have to stand on the brakes it gets really hard really fast. I couldn't even get the brakes to lock up from a 40mph roll.

In all the cars I have built I haven't had one MPB set up with that little diaphragm that worked well. I have had some with larger Brake boosters and they worked well.

Anybody want to sell one of those bell cranks?

I hope you don't mind me adding a couple things to check. Although I'm not fond of that booster or master cylinder, it should work somewhat OK, other wise they wouldn't sell them by the boat load.

I'd suggest you check the basics in the wheels, make sure the shoe contact points on the backing plate are smooth, the wheel cylinders are working on both pistons, and then the brakes are adjusted properly. You need to tighten the adjuster all the way until the wheel stops, then back it off just until you hear a slight drag. If you only tighten until the drag without the wheel locking up, you may not have taken up all the mechanical slop, which is what you are trying to do. You may have to back off the E brake cable as well for proper adjusting in the back. Also, the shoes shouldn't be shiney, if they are, sand them until they are rough. I do that to old and new vehicles and what a difference.

At the master cylinder, make sure there is no slop between the booster pin and the piston. Also, not to add any confusion, if that is a disc brake master, then you are missing the drum brake check valve for the fronts which could make for a low pedal because you lose the pump up feature.

Hope this helps more than it hurts.

Good luck

 

[5.7 hemi]

Just saw 2 of those belcranks on ebay, each was 55 bucks, check it out.

 

[Pugly]

What are they under on ebay?

WS27,
The brakes were just redone by the someone but I took them all apart because they grabbed and didn't release right, The Rf cylinder was full of rust, so I put all new cylinders, lines and shoes. They are arched right. Drums were good. I know drum brakes aren't the best, but they usually work a lot better than what I have.

They used to say those small boosters were only good for street rods or cars under 2500 lbs. I know they now are all double boosters.... there may just be something wrong with it.

 

[moparmarks]

66-70B is different than 71-4B/E and 70E is a 1 year only thing.
I sell them for 40.00 when I have them. Just have the 71/4's right now.
I couldn't find them on the gag either.

 

[Cranky]

Doug, do you have to have PB's? My first car, a 66 with poly 318, ac, ps came with manual drums and it stopped fine. It did have some fade with the original shoes but once my dad turned it over to me in 69, I replaced the factory junk with much better shoes and the fade was virtually gone even after I dropped in a 383. Yeah, it was there on the 3rd panic stop from 75 but damn, who does that? And on the 66 I have now, it's also a full manual drum car and it did pretty good even with the spindly 10x1.5 shoes on the rear. It's also an ac car but was lighter by 300 lbs than my first 66....and pedal effort was still fine.

 

[ilm65]

Wonderful wealth of knowledge on this site--I'm doing much the same to my car and this really shows the direction to take in order to avoid a lot of frustration (and error). Thanks to all!!!

 

[Pugly]

Doug, do you have to have PB's? My first car, a 66 with poly 318, ac, ps came with manual drums and it stopped fine. It did have some fade with the original shoes but once my dad turned it over to me in 69, I replaced the factory junk with much better shoes and the fade was virtually gone even after I dropped in a 383. Yeah, it was there on the 3rd panic stop from 75 but damn, who does that? And on the 66 I have now, it's also a full manual drum car and it did pretty good even with the spindly 10x1.5 shoes on the rear. It's also an ac car but was lighter by 300 lbs than my first 66....and pedal effort was still fine.

No, not at all. I am thinking of just going to the mancini set up with a later master cylinder, non power. Both my Hemi cars (long gone) had 4 wheel non power drums, they worked fine. O'reilly's had a rebuilt booster and cylinder for $120.00..That's what had me leaning to power brakes. The Mancini set up was more than that, I believe. This seems to be a bigger ordeal than I had planned. I can make that bellcrank out of bar stock, but the other pieces I need to find. The Belvedere... Heck none of my cars have power brakes.... They all work fine.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Look under "bellcranks" and you'll find them. The seller is out of Oregon if that helps.

 

[5.7 hemi]

OOOOpppsss....sorry guys, it's under mopar brakes in the vintage section.
MOPAR B-BODY E-BODY POWER BRAKE LEVER GTX BEE ROAD CUDA CHARGER CHALLENGER
try this.

 

[5.7 hemi]

That didn't work, here's the item number..Item number: 360464386030

 

[moparmarks]

I think that the ones O-Reillys and everyone else has is the larger Bendix which is good. Its a dual piston. The Midlands are single piston and I believe the only one rebuilding those is the Ramman in TX.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Here's the other one...Item number: 360464385206

 

[moparmarks]

Found it. Kinda crusy for 55 bucks.