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Brake flaring tool question

I've had an Imperial Eastman since the 70's, It's always worked well but it's getting worn out...

I like the style KD suggests but often I'm doing a flare on the vehicle where there's no chance of mounting in a vise....

I've used one like Carl & KRE Auto suggest, it worked well for me... Not sure what gave Greg trouble...
 
When I was a Carpenter, I did not use cheap tools since they would often break or just not work as well as better quality stuff. When you're working, a tool failure costs you and your employer money. No Harbor Freight saws, nail guns or drills. Milwaukee for me. They work and can take abuse.
Being a hobbyist car guy, if a tool broke, it was inconvenient but didn't affect my wallet. I've used cheap spray guns and turned out decent paint jobs, Craftsman air impacts and ratchets that worked as intended. Cheap tools that didn't let me down but.... the hand held tube-flare setups seemed to flex where the two halves mate together, causing the tube to move and the flare to bend wrong.
I've used standard chrome sockets with impact wrenches electric and pneumatic and never broke a socket.
I have broken sockets though....with a ratchet and a long cheater bar!
 
When I was a Carpenter, I did not use cheap tools since they would often break or just not work as well as better quality stuff. When you're working, a tool failure costs you and your employer money. No Harbor Freight saws, nail guns or drills. Milwaukee for me. They work and can take abuse.
Being a hobbyist car guy, if a tool broke, it was inconvenient but didn't affect my wallet. I've used cheap spray guns and turned out decent paint jobs, Craftsman air impacts and ratchets that worked as intended. Cheap tools that didn't let me down but.... the hand held tube-flare setups seemed to flex where the two halves mate together, causing the tube to move and the flare to bend wrong.
I've used standard chrome sockets with impact wrenches electric and pneumatic and never broke a socket.
I have broken sockets though....with a ratchet and a long cheater bar!
I assume you had trouble with the old school manual flaring tool? Not the hydraulic flaring tool?

Cheap versions of the old school tool suck, an Imperial Eastman works very well if used properly, but there are tricks you need to know...

The hydraulic type in my experience works very well...

https://www.amazon.com/MASTERCOOL-7...mzn1.fos.5998aa40-ec6f-4947-a68f-cd087fee0848
 
Ok... so I need to buy a new brake line flaring tool since the ine I had owned for 50 suddenly learned how to run away from home.

I had the standard sngle/double flare deal that was used since the days of the ark.

How do these new fangled hyd tools work? I'm not buying a SnapOn set like I did own... how do these new ones hold up?
I bought one from Jegs , years ago , works well...
 
Mine is a SnapOn from the 90's... works fine but my arthritic/nerve damaged hands are not as strong as they once were... hence I'm looking at a hydraulic deal.

My Mopar buddy Tracey has a used CalVan for sale... going to take a peek at it this weekend. His new one cost $400!

And he can even afford a stable of Mopars! Obviously he had been involved in some shady dealings ( poker or NBA games?).
 
As has already been mentioned, this style sucks. It is nearly impossible to hold the tubing tight enough to flare it without the tubing sliding down. I still have a couple in my tool box(s) but I haven't used them in decades.
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Instead, I've been using a K-D 2190 flaring tool for years. It's good when you get into tight places and, unlike the parallel-strap versions, it securely clamps the tubing when you're flaring it.
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When Gearwrench took over K-D Tools, they discontinued it but they're still out there on ebay.

Don't forget to dress the new flare with a lapping tool.
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That'll get rid of any imperfections in the surface of the newly created flare.
There are a pair of stones in the kit. One for 37 degree and another for 45 degree flares.
It's a Koul Tools Surseat P-51

If I'm flaring tubing on the bench, I use my hydraulic flaring tool but it's kinda clumsy to use if you're repairing a line while the tubing is still on the vehicle.
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I also have one of the aforementioned vise-mounted flaring tools but they're useless if there's no vise around to secure them. They're best suited for a fabrication shop, especially if there's not enough room surrounding your vise to accommodate a long steel line.

And....
If you need to make tight bends really close to the flare nut, ECI makes a vise-mount tubing bender that works great. ECI Tubing Benders Catalog Page - Engineered Components, Inc.

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Nice recommendation. That looks handy, and cheap like me. Does it come with dies for double flares?
It ain't cheap anymore. I just ordered a couple of carb rebuilding kits from the UK and the duty nearly doubled the cost of my order.

Plus, I don't believe it's rated or anything harder than aluminum or copper.
 
I want to ad the Khoul Tool units to my selection too. Great idea to be able to lap the tube. And get their AN tools too.
 
I got this one $69... works amazingly well as long as you have a decent vice to hold it. Have not had a bad flare yet.

There are videos on how to use them but it's literally step 1, 2 then 3...

P.S. it's one of my favorite tools now, made life soo much easier.. i wish it had something that says "Don't forget the nut!" when you clamp hose into it..


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You should wrap the arm with the yellow and black safety tape. You’ll be thinking about the nut whenever you see it.
 
In all the years of working on cars, I have never created a satisfactory double flare on a brake line...until recently. The below tool was recommended on another forum I frequent. It is simple to use and mistake proof. I ended up doing all new brake lines and cut and repair hydraulic clutch lines with ease. The hydraulic clutch lines were performed on the vehicle. It is a single size tool. I used the 3/16" version.

Capri Tools 3/16 in. Double Flaring Tool (CP21110-316)​

 
I have one of those too and it works good, and you can use it on the car too.
 
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