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Buying a Be Cool Radiator, Need help deciding on left or right hose location

2quick

2quick

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I am ready to purchase a new BeCool Crossflow Radiator setup for my 66 Satellite and because I'm also running a Meziere electric water pump I have a choice of driver or passenger side Lower hose configuration. My question: Is there any advantages that I'm not seeing to run a passenger side lower hose routing option? Same cost either way. I am running power steering and hydro boost. If going with the optional passenger side lower hose the upper hose moves to the driver side. Thoughts?

134-80165.jpg

http://www.jegs.com/i/Be-Cool-Radiators/134/80172/10002/-1
 
lower hose on driver's side so as not to block timming tab
 
You might also consider resale in the future. A conventional hose connection setup will more desirable to others.
Mike
 
a better picture of the cross flow conversion.

60172_2048x2048.jpg
 
i wouldn't buy a be cool if you gave it to me for half price. I've had two and they didn't cool worth a damn.

smith, wizzard, griffen would be my choice

outlet just depends on what works better for your car. no real advantage to either
 
68 HEMI GTS said:
i wouldn't buy a be cool if you gave it to me for half price. I've had two and they didn't cool worth a damn.

smith, wizzard, griffen would be my choice

outlet just depends on what works better for your car. no real advantage to either
Click to expand...

Was the Be Cool model you used Cross Flow or Standard Tank on Top?

The main reason I was moving in this direction is the width on the core is 27.5 wide allowing for two 13" fans @ 1710cfm ea. or 3420cfm total.
 
both were cross flows. i still have one hanging on the wall in the garage
 
68 HEMI GTS said:
both were cross flows. i still have one hanging on the wall in the garage
Click to expand...
What HP where they rated for and were the tanks notched like the picture above? Just saying If the radiators you were running and have real world experiance with didnt cut it. Then not sure I want it.

Anyone else have personal experience with Be Cool on a High HP Street car?
 
I bought 4 champions and they all worked fine...crossflow is the best way to cool over an upright ....but......to me, they look fugly
 
Neither of them had the notched tank. First one I bought about 20 years ago for a 26" big block application. Never was worth a crap (car would get real hot). Put a factory 26" copper rad back in the car and it would sit in traffic all day. I ended up putting that becool in a 68 barracuda I was unloading. Even in front of a pretty much stock 360 it still needed a big pusher to supplement the mechanical fan and it was marginal at best. The roadrunner had one in it when I got it. it too wasn't real impressive although a bit better than the first. I replaced it with a factory unit (worked better) and later the smith out of the dart. That's the one hanging on the wall. I may use it for a racing application but that would be about it. My smith is a downflow but, it sure does work. I did have to run pushers on it in the dart for stop and go only. I just use the mechanical fan with the smith in the roadrunner, no supplemental cooling and it works fine.

I see the becool as an overpriced gimmick. You can do better for a lot less IMO. I would also be lookin for something with 2 rows of 1.25 tubes.

IMG_0179.JPG

IMG_0492.JPG
 
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My recent Champion Rad...472 CI...160 stat....runs cool all day

IM000904.JPG
 
So because of the responses of you guys I've decided to opt out of the BeCool and purchased a 26" wizard radiator with 1.25 tubes and brushless fans. stil big bucks at $1300 ($920 fan/relay option) but it really makes the fan/shroud package much thinner.
 
terzmo said:
I bought 4 champions and they all worked fine...crossflow is the best way to cool over an upright ....but......to me, they look fugly
Click to expand...

To quote from the Wizard site:
"Hot coolant flowing from the engine enters one tank, then passes through the tubes in the radiator core to the other tank, which then passes the coolant back into the engine. While the coolant is in the tubes of the core, the heat from the coolant transfers to the tube wall and fins. The passage of air over the core dissipates the heat transferred to the tubes and fins and the cooled down coolant is then passed back through the engine to start the cycle over. The more tube surface area there is, the better a radiator can dissipate heat and cool. (Please read to the end.)


1673-100-fs.jpg
2028-100.jpg



So, if you have both a downflow and crossflow radiators made out of the same materials, using the same build methods and using the same core dimensions, then they will provide the same level of cooling, regardless of their position."

Entered here in the event some folks might read the quoted post and take it for truth without further reasearch...
 
2quick said:
So because of the responses of you guys I've decided to opt out of the BeCool and purchased a 26" wizard radiator with 1.25 tubes and brushless fans. stil big bucks at $1300 ($920 fan/relay option) but it really makes the fan/shroud package much thinner.
Click to expand...
I purchased a Wizard also. Better explanation to me of their product and performance.
Mike
IMG_1649.JPG
 
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