Caliper sticking

[junkpile]

Did a disc brake conversion to my 69 charger years ago using 78 Volarie setup. About a year ago the car had a stuck right front caliper. Changed both calipers (they needed it) last year and this past month the car was pulling to the right when hitting the brakes and the caliper was sticking. New caliper is doing the same thing. Can anyone help with possible causes?

I was guessing a brake hose might be week, not allowing the fluid to "pull back" when the pedal is released. I was going to try this first, but could it be something else? left front works fine with no problems. Could the proportioning valve have something to do with it?

Any info is appreciated.

 

[eldubb440]

most likely the hose.......... when caliper is sticking, crack the bleeder. if it releases it IS the hose

 

[Frank Mopar]

I had a Neon that did the same thing. Turns out the clamp around the hose was rusted and squeezing the hose shut. New hose no problem

 

[Yatzee]

Did a disc brake conversion to my 69 charger years ago using 78 Volarie setup. About a year ago the car had a stuck right front caliper. Changed both calipers (they needed it) last year and this past month the car was pulling to the right when hitting the brakes and the caliper was sticking. New caliper is doing the same thing. Can anyone help with possible causes?

I was guessing a brake hose might be week, not allowing the fluid to "pull back" when the pedal is released. I was going to try this first, but could it be something else? left front works fine with no problems. Could the proportioning valve have something to do with it?

Any info is appreciated.

I agree that it's probably the hose but you may have one caliper piston sticking as well. I doubt that the proportioning valve is the issue. Have you checked the hard lines for damage that go to that side - $hit happens. Pulling to the right could indicate a problem with the left side especially leakage at the piston seal or brake fluid/grease on the rotor. A complete inspection is called for.

 

[gtxno1]

Not enough info what master did you use also is it power brakes thanks

 

[junkpile]

Thanks for the advise.

Disc brakes are from 78 volarie, single piston calipers, Bendix brake booster, 70 hemi charger master cylinder (1-1/8" bore).

hard brake lines look fine. no dents bends or any damage to them at all. I am going to order the rubber lines later today and start there. as for leakage......not losing any fluid anywhere, rotors are dry so is area around the piston.

 

[gtxno1]

If your rubber brake line does not work and it is still acting up you need to use the master cylinder from the 78 volare and adjust the brake booster rod to the proper length and that should do it that hemi master is not meant for that set up more than likely you are keeping residual pressure on the front brakes without knowing it after about 10-12 miles of driving is when it rears its ugly head

 

[junkpile]

Yea I was concerned about the master cylinder with 1-1/8" piston too, but it has been on there for a few years and never had a hang up with it. When I was using the A body master with the .9" piston the pedal felt like it would never engage the brakes, with the bigger master it feels fine. I have set the pin on the booster to the master cylinder with the depth gauge so there is no issue with the rod being too short or too long holding the brakes on.

If I can get this fixed with just brake lines that would be great. I am looking to put the 11.75" rotors on to get a little more stopping force. I already have the caliper brackets so if I fix the sticking issue I will just have to put the larger brackets on to accommodate the larger rotors and still run the 15" rims.