• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Cam intallation

Houle #382

Well-Known Member
Local time
2:04 AM
Joined
Jun 13, 2014
Messages
317
Reaction score
188
Location
Hastings NY
Got a question, I'm installing a new cam in my 440. Before I started to take the engine down I made sure the pistons were at DTC distributor was at number one and both number one valves were closed, was I on the compression stroke I'm not sure. When I took the timing chain cover off my top sprocket ( cam sprocket ) was at 12 o'clock and bottom crank sprocket was at 12 o'clock on the old cam. After installing the new cam If I rotate the top sprocket to 6 o'clock to line up to the mark on the bottom sprocket the vales will start to open but if I rotate it back up to 12 o'clock the valves are closed which is where I need to be in order to take a measurement at zero lash to get new push rods so where do I go from here? I'm stuck and really don't know do I put it back together the was it was top sprocket at 12 and bottom at 12 ? Any suggestions ?
 
Most cam manufacturers have installation instructions on their website. Doesn't really matter whose you follow, they're all basically the same.

You can install the cam with the dots at 12 o'clock or dot to dot. Switching from one to the other will only change which piston is firing and where to point the rotor when you install the distributor. (dot to dot #6 is firing). As for pushrod length, you can measure any any lifter that is on the lobe base circle and that's pretty easy to eyeball.
 
When the crank turns 360 degrees, the cam turns 180. Line the marks up at 6 on cam, 12 on crank. Turn the crank one revolution and "voila", both are at 12.
 
When the engine is at TDC compression on #1 both valves on #6 will be slightly open. So which ever cylinder needs the longer length (#6 or #1) is the cylinder to use for checking purposes. I'm assuming the intake is still removed. Should be easy to see the lobes.
Doug
 
Got a question, I'm installing a new cam in my 440. Before I started to take the engine down I made sure the pistons were at DTC distributor was at number one and both number one valves were closed, was I on the compression stroke I'm not sure. When I took the timing chain cover off my top sprocket ( cam sprocket ) was at 12 o'clock and bottom crank sprocket was at 12 o'clock on the old cam. After installing the new cam If I rotate the top sprocket to 6 o'clock to line up to the mark on the bottom sprocket the vales will start to open but if I rotate it back up to 12 o'clock the valves are closed which is where I need to be in order to take a measurement at zero lash to get new push rods so where do I go from here? I'm stuck and really don't know do I put it back together the was it was top sprocket at 12 and bottom at 12 ? Any suggestions ?

For valve lash / pushrod length I use the EOIC method. EOIC stands for Exhaust Opening, Intake Closing.
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/1707-how-to-set-valve-lash/
 
This how to is for solid lifters I'm running a hydraulic roller, I got my push rod length now I just need to get them ordered
It's the same procedure, the difference is, lash vs preload. How tight the rocker is to the valve.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top