Camchoise
- Thread starter Haflinger
- Start date
69 Runner
ADMIN wif a corner office (Deceased - RIP)
If you're planning on running the factory rockers (read stamped steel stock or HD) then I'd run the 224 cam. It will be much closer to what a stock cam is supposed to be. A stamped rocker is supposed to be a 1.5:1 ratio, but actually index closer to 1.42:1 which means you lose lift (and duration) So using the 224 cam you will be closer to the factory advertised lift....meaning a bit MO power
will give you a .461/.464 lift at the valve
will give you a .461/.464 lift at the valve
69 Runner
ADMIN wif a corner office (Deceased - RIP)
Be .451/.454 which is close to the "advertised lift" on a stock cam which is .450/.458. With stock rockers you only get .426/.433
So you are getting away from the stock cam, and running what a stock cam SHOULD be
So you are getting away from the stock cam, and running what a stock cam SHOULD be
69 Runner
ADMIN wif a corner office (Deceased - RIP)
I should have asked earlier....What motor are you running, and what is it you're wanting to do with it?
Haflinger
Well-Known Member
1969 GTX convertible, 440HP, pocketported 906 heads with bigger valves,
stock intake and exhaust manifolds, stock converter, 727, 3,23 diff.
I want better throttleresponse and better low end torque.
stock intake and exhaust manifolds, stock converter, 727, 3,23 diff.
I want better throttleresponse and better low end torque.
69 Runner
ADMIN wif a corner office (Deceased - RIP)
I've never been a fan of ported heads on the street. Kills low end velocity. But the 224 cam should help over the 783 you're running.
OR......I can send you info to get the same cam I was running in my Six Pack. Goes like stink. If you ignore how it says to set it up, you'll be able to burn the tires to the rims no prob. Ya just don't go fast like that..
OR......I can send you info to get the same cam I was running in my Six Pack. Goes like stink. If you ignore how it says to set it up, you'll be able to burn the tires to the rims no prob. Ya just don't go fast like that..
69 Runner
ADMIN wif a corner office (Deceased - RIP)
PM sent
Meep-Meep
дворянин
....Also, pay attention to the compression ratio. It's best to CC everything so you know what you have, but if you can't do that then go with basic measurements or published info. What pistons? How far down in the hole? Flat tops or pop ups? Head gasket thickness? Open chamber heads are not good for quench unless you have the quench dome pistons and may be prone to detonation on crappy gas. 516 heads may be a good option to get some quench to improve combustion efficiency. They can usually be had cheap and I think the improved combustion chamber situation will outweigh the crappy intake ports, especially since you're not looking to make power at 6800 RPM. People are running 452's with good results and they have the same flat floor as the 516. Of course, by the time you hard seat, surface, etc... you're in there for $400.00, but still half the price of some aftermarket heads.
It sounds like your engine is already put together so go with a cam that best matches your CR. Stay away from the 108 deg CL cams - too peaky. 112 or 114 deg should give a wider power band. The single most important valve event (and the one most noticed by seat of the pants) is the intake closing point. This is when the engine starts to build cylinder pressure and is taken into account when the manufacturer recommends a CR to be used with a particular cam (i.e. check the mfgr data!). 160 PSI of cranking pressure will make for a good running engine on regular gas for most driving. Also make sure you run the full 38 deg of advance, which should be no problem if the cyl pressure matches the fuel used.
Pocket porting should not cause any harm. I pocket ported the heads on my 352 in my 66 F250. It has a performer and the matching cam and runs great on reg gas.
Anyway, just throwing out some stuff I've learned and has worked for me over the years - hope it helps.
It sounds like your engine is already put together so go with a cam that best matches your CR. Stay away from the 108 deg CL cams - too peaky. 112 or 114 deg should give a wider power band. The single most important valve event (and the one most noticed by seat of the pants) is the intake closing point. This is when the engine starts to build cylinder pressure and is taken into account when the manufacturer recommends a CR to be used with a particular cam (i.e. check the mfgr data!). 160 PSI of cranking pressure will make for a good running engine on regular gas for most driving. Also make sure you run the full 38 deg of advance, which should be no problem if the cyl pressure matches the fuel used.
Pocket porting should not cause any harm. I pocket ported the heads on my 352 in my 66 F250. It has a performer and the matching cam and runs great on reg gas.
Anyway, just throwing out some stuff I've learned and has worked for me over the years - hope it helps.
rolling_Thunder
Well-Known Member
I'd run an Engle camshaft myself... never been a fan of Comp
wagonmaster
Well-Known Member
I agree, to a point. It's really hard to kill all the bottom end on a good 440. You're giving good advice on the rockers, too. It's an often missed item! Not that you need my approval, but it's good to know that knowledgeable folks live here.....
Haflinger
Well-Known Member
New cam is in but the engine is dead, has fuel but no spark. Could I have
burned the ECU or coil by wrong connected wires? Gets moore difficult
to crank when I turn the distributor but that's all. Even turned it 180°
without result. Bright idéas would be appreciated.
burned the ECU or coil by wrong connected wires? Gets moore difficult
to crank when I turn the distributor but that's all. Even turned it 180°
without result. Bright idéas would be appreciated.
toms69rr
Active Member
Bring up #1 and see where rotor is. is it pointing at the #1 plug wire?
Is the rotation of the plug wire correct? BB IS CCW
Is the rotation of the plug wire correct? BB IS CCW
Haflinger
Well-Known Member
CCW =??? I love all the shortenings you have over there.
TDC and a dirty carb was the problem.
69 Runner
ADMIN wif a corner office (Deceased - RIP)
I think it would be ACW across the pond...
Haflinger
Well-Known Member
After putting the Comp 224 in the car was ok for a couple of miles but after a
week in the garage I started it up and the engine was shaking so I thought the enginemounts would brake and power like a slant six.
After all the **** I had with it I decided to pull the engine, a new rebuild as it
should be. I have the invoice from the shop doing it 1996. Yes, the car
only has 500 miles since. The bores looks like they have 150000 miles on them, propably no honejob and no clearence between piston and wall.
But what's scares me is the "craters" in cyl 4, I can feel it with my finger.
Can that be fixed with a honing? Bore is now 0,040.
week in the garage I started it up and the engine was shaking so I thought the enginemounts would brake and power like a slant six.
After all the **** I had with it I decided to pull the engine, a new rebuild as it
should be. I have the invoice from the shop doing it 1996. Yes, the car
only has 500 miles since. The bores looks like they have 150000 miles on them, propably no honejob and no clearence between piston and wall.
But what's scares me is the "craters" in cyl 4, I can feel it with my finger.
Can that be fixed with a honing? Bore is now 0,040.
Meep-Meep
дворянин
Honing without going crazy should be limited to about .0015" on the diameter. This usually gets rid of most surface defects but not the deep stuff. Take it to the shop and have them take a minimum pass to try and clean up the marks on the worst bore then see what's left, but be prepared to make the call on the spot to go .060" because the setup to bore a block is the same. I have left small witness marks in bores with no problems - heck, my shop used to call me the re-ring king!
Similar threads
