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Can the torsion bar go in wrong?

Dont mean to a but hole but my god , these cars have the simplest suspension system ever, how the the **** guys. Some poeple need there tools taken away in my opinion.
 
Let's take a poll and see if anyone asked for your opinion.....
Simple or not, we all are free to do as we wish. There is no reason to berate someone that tries to learn. Nobody was born knowing everything.
 
Let's take a poll and see if anyone asked for your opinion.....
Simple or not, we all are free to do as we wish. There is no reason to berate someone that tries to learn. Nobody was born knowing everything.
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:lol:
 
To answer the question raised, my car is from the southern US and there was no rust on the adjusting screws. The threads pulled right out of the block and were imbedded in the adjusting screw. Accept the warning from my experience or ignore it at your own risk.

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Dont mean to a but hole but my god , these cars have the simplest suspension system ever, how the the **** guys. Some poeple need there tools taken away in my opinion.
Lol there's a thread still going from Monday and 3 pages later the guy won't flip his center link and reinstall it. The problem was announced in the 8th reply.
Weird, but there's all levels here. Some tongue biting involved
 
I feel your pain and no need to explain. I shattered a X break in my big toe holding a 2” drive air impact wrench up in the air against a 1 1/4” Mack suspension spring U bolt when the torque (which I was told would never break it) sheared the top right off the 6” wide U bolt. The rubber bushing it was compressing expanded and crushed my foot between the air impact wrench and floor. Thank you for your input. I will add not adjusting that adjuster under weight to my list of other no knows. Along side never ever using a a cutoff wheel without a guard after getting a kickback in the groin with a 5”er that ground through my pants, the pocket, and my underwear before stopping with a brush burn above my femoral artery. Things can happen so fast. I for one take it seriously when others share their mishaps.
 
I see a jack under the a-arm. Was that how the front of the car was being supported or were there jack stands under the frame allowing the front suspension to hang free? Remove the upper a-arm bump stops to let the suspension droop fully and the new bolt and the adjuster block will slide right in. I lube it with anti-sieze compound. Tighten them up approximately equal amounts on both sides, drop the weight on to the tires, bounce it a few times and roll it a couple feet back and forth and measure side to side. Jack back up, adjust accordingly until you get it where you want and sitting level from side to side. The torsion bar doesn’t need to come back out.

I see a jack under the a-arm. Was that how the front of the car was being supported or were there jack stands under the frame allowing the front suspension to hang free? Remove the upper a-arm bump stops to let the suspension droop fully and the new bolt and the adjuster block will slide right in. I lube it with anti-sieze compound. Tighten them up approximately equal amounts on both sides, drop the weight on to the tires, bounce it a few times and roll it a couple feet back and forth and measure side to side. Jack back up, adjust accordingly until you get it where you want and sitting level from side to side. The torsion bar doesn’t need to come back out.
I did have a jack under the control arm, but it really was not lifting anything. When I took that picture, I was trying to get the adjuster nut out and was trying to raise the lower control hoping it would come out.
 
kanter has them for $92. Not as cheap as I remember but still not bad in todays world. Probably not OEM but OEM isn't what it used to be either.
I saw that, but is that for the pair or just one, the picture on their website shows one.
 
looks like 1 to me. Mopars are not inexpensive parts by any means, shop around I guess.
 
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