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Car trailers sturdy enough to haul a B body.

I will not be crossing the straps when I secure cars. I've seen enough to feel that fore/aft strap methods to be safer.
 
I bought my trailer in 1991 it is a 16ft wood deck it didn't have dove tail. I live in Northern Wisconsin so rust is an issue. Over the years I have hauled just about everything. Race cars, full-size pickups, tractors , skid steers ,building supplies etc. About 15 years ago made a 2ft dove by cutting frame bending down and plating it no problem loading 6000lb tractor. Over the years replace wood deck just used pressure treated 2x8. The fenders twice. The last time I had fenders made from 1/8 plate I can drive on them. Also replaced axles, springs etc. a couple years ago. I have towed thousands miles with 215/70/15 cars tires no problems 2 flats in 30years. I put a harbor freight 10,000 lb winch on 5 years ago makes life easier. I use chains and binders through stake pockets on everything. Those nylon straps for a lawnmower or snowmobile maybe.
 
I bought the trailer, then went back to work. I don't want to work anymore.
Actually, I love framing stuff but I also really like doing car related things.
I welded the D rings......

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12 in total. I even primed and repainted the areas afterward. The welds actually came out decent.
I needed tie down ratchets and straps. I wanted the type with the locking hook so I bought these:

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Also....axle and frame rail straps.....

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Plus a thin, flimsy nylon bag to carry them.....and likely to rip and spill everything out when I go to haul a car in the pouring rain!

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You know how it feels when you buy a new hammer? You want to hit things with it.
I want to haul cars with this right now.
 
I just used a buddies 14 footer.

IMO.....much MUCH to short for my comfort level.

I plan to buy one of my own in the coming months and it will either be a 16 minimum or maybe 18 footer max.

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I just used a buddies 14 footer.

IMO.....much MUCH to short for my comfort level.

I plan to buy one of my own in the coming months and it will either be a 16 minimum or maybe 18 footer max.

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Mine is 18 feet and I love it. Like take it to meet my parents kind of love.
 
I will not be crossing the straps when I secure cars. I've seen enough to feel that fore/aft strap methods to be safer.
In Maryland it's the law...not that it's enforced, but it could come into play if someone was involved in an accident. Doesn't hurt to know your state's laws.

Happy trailering!
 
B/A products make a real nice strap set that loop over the wheel and tire for each wheel. It also give it a 8pt tie down and will not harm anything. Many new cars the stronger point to tie down is the wheel itself , or a known recovery hook or transport eye in the frame. The wheel strap set also eliminates laying underneath it in the rain. I used it for years on my roll back.
 
B/A products make a real nice strap set that loop over the wheel and tire for each wheel. It also give it a 8pt tie down and will not harm anything. Many new cars the stronger point to tie down is the wheel itself , or a known recovery hook or transport eye in the frame. The wheel strap set also eliminates laying underneath it in the rain. I used it for years on my roll back.
My bro in law runs a rollback business and he has those for all his trucks. Where can you get them? Would they fit over an 11" wide tire?
 
I do believe this is the correct part number for reference ... they are available many places too.

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I’ve hauled high end Ferrari’s with them safely! They create a very secure tie down!
 
In Maryland it's the law...not that it's enforced, but it could come into play if someone was involved in an accident. Doesn't hurt to know your state's laws.

Happy trailering!
I am not following you. You stated that "It's the law" in Maryland. What specifically? Crossing or not crossing?
Thanks.
 
Use those axle straps with chains and binders. Save those ratchet straps for small stuff and cargo. I loaded heavy equipment on semi's for several years and we always crossed the chains from side to side to keep the load from shifting. You won't see a truck on the road hauling any kind of equipment with straps.
 
Problem with surge brakes is on a down grade they tend to stay applied...On a short down grade no problem, a long down grade you'll cook the trailer brakes... Then theres that thing about backing up, the brakes tend to apply as you back up, you give I a little throttle & the brakes lock tighter.... Gotta learn to put it in reverse & wait, hopefully the trailer will start to roll backwards... Usually it does but if your on a surface where the trailer resists rolling say grass or gravel, you ain't backing up...

Virg464 lives in a relatively flat state, KD lives at the edge of the Sierras... Worlds apart...
Agree! When surge brakes came out - way far back in time- they were an inexpensive way of adding brakes to trailers to keep cost down. There are a few adjustments you can make BUT brakes with a "controller" you CAN control are much better and less frustrating ! Plus you Can adjust how "hard" you want to have the Trailer brakes "to hit" based on the load you have on it at any given time or weather condition.
As a idea for those that have truck with short boxes: I got two 5 ft. E-track rails and attached them on the trailer deck as cost as possible to the fenders have the straps (15 and 20 ft) so now the trailer can become a "utility" hauler also. If ya want to see what I mean by E-Track go to the NAPA site (you need the vertical ones) part number T-Evp5. They are in the Balkamp catalog, if you go to a store and they do not know what you want. They have straps also. Or almost any trailer supply house.
 
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Great video SIMPLY EXPLAINED. When designers of a part say DO NOT DO IT - DON"T!!! One other thing for all you towers : Straps "Stretch" !!!! In fact they are designed to do BUT JUST ENOUGH to absorb energy. So after you load and drive 20-50 miles STOP and readjust!!!
 
I agree with wild rt, I would put 2 at the rear most corners of the trailer, but on the rear angle iron, not the sides, then do the same on the front. X rear and straight on the front and always, always attach to rear axle and lower control arms, never to the frame. The vehicle moves up and down as you tow it, and if attached to the frame, a large bump can dislodge or loosen your straps. I see guys do this at the track and I cringe. I'm one of those few folks that have had a car come off the trailer on the expressway. No one was hurt, car wasn't damaged, but it left a lasting, burned-in impression on my brain. If I ever see any of you at a car show, ask me about it.
Please watch the video. Straps are designed to have tension in a STRAIGHT LINE. Look at any trailer that is purchased with 'D-RINGS" installed by the manufacture, they ARE NOT at the corners, but where they can be attached in a STRAIGHT LINE to what you are Securing. Do not try and out think Isaac Newton. When and if a strap breaks or loosens the strap the has more tension will pull it in that direction (toward the outside edge of the trailer. You will have a new FORCE acting on your load!
PS: make sure you get TOW straps NOT recovery Straps. Each has a different purpose.
I also spent a bit of time looking for any laws for requirements for attaching a vehicle or load to a trailer. Could find nothing. But I am sure there must be some kind of rule. Probable be a good idea to call the State DOT? OR? to find out. I called a close friend that is State PD ( here in NY) he said he knows of none ( as far as straight or at an angle - crossed or to the sides at an angle. SO?????? I vote the way the manufactures recommend. There are some for Class A - every 10 ft. for the length of the trailer, And those are are always done straight across.
 
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Boom. The day finally came.

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Big Tex 18 footer. I wanted a dove tail but they are harder to find than I thought.

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$4300 plus all the extras......Like a SPARE tire, brake controller....

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Tax and license. All in, $5400. This is a 7000 lb rated unit that weighs 2000 lbs on its own.

I brought out Jigsaw and did a test load.

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I didn't need any tricks to load it. I thought I'd need to back the truck tires onto some ramps or make some extensions for the steel ramps but it went right up.

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NOW I have to find a way to tie the car down. Every time that I have hauled a car before, the trailer had it's own tie downs. This trailer has no D rings, just the stake pockets.

The trailer store had these on the wall:

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They slip into the stake pockets and look like a decent solution for some cargo but I'm not sure I like them for tying down a car. I think I want something lower so the straps don't rub the body on the car being transported.
Make sure you pay attention to what manufacture says to do to protect that wood deck. I have seen so where they did not and it can get costly. Plus if for any reason you decide to change to anything else, the better it looks the more you will get for it, and if ya find it is perfect for you, maintenance easier and cheaper than repairs.
 
Thank you.
As a carpenter, I was disappointed in the deck. Structurally it is fine but the gaps between the boards are inconsistent. That really annoys a guy like me.
 
Thank you.
As a carpenter, I was disappointed in the deck. Structurally it is fine but the gaps between the boards are inconsistent. That really annoys a guy like me.
My dad built homes for a living, as we grew up we worked with him. I do know enough to make myself dangerous. Carpenter - not even close! But I believe that's why the wood "maintenance" is so important. On steel deck or steel ramp trailers they of course weld the d-rings. For those that have them, Would "through" bolting the D-rings and their brackets to the deck work. this is of course is using a very "hard" bolt and it's fasteners? I would guess grade 8 or 10.
 
I like the Sundowner trailers, they tow great!
 
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