lewtot184
Well-Known Member
could be as simple as a filter problem. gauge verification makes sense.
Changing oil pump.
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It has one under the hood. One of those small mechanical ones. Off that same leg is a mechanical autometer or whatever inside the car. The original port on drivers side is hooked up to original gauge which I don't trust or pay attention to. I'll have to compare to the two when I have it running next. I do remember both gauges falling off when it was hot a pretty good amount which could be normal. I just definitely know the mechanical aftermarket one in the car drops down pretty low at idle but shoots right back up once you throttle it at all. Runs around 40 or so driving but like I said drops down to that stupid 10psi at idle once operating temp. It reads 40ish psi. cold even at idle until it warms up, them starts dropping at idle.
I have changed the oil since and same thing. I am running a NAPA gold which is made by WIX. Good filter company that I have never had an issue with to this day.
wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
HALT-TILT
NO WHITE LUBE
never use anything that is not soluble in motor oil
A very famous FORD racer blew up over 20 302 drag and road race motors assembling with white grease
BTW it is not hard to make an adjustable oil pressure relief valve with the external BBM pump
Oil specs change all the time
IDK if Diesel is still the way to go
I'm using the Euro spec full synthetic- It's made from Natural Gas so is it even oil? 0W-40 and others
usually expensive (it's specked for BMW, Mercedes etc but Wally world has it for less than $25 4 5 quart jug.
The better the base stock the less friction modifiers needed, better film strength so less EP additives, etc
NO WHITE LUBE
never use anything that is not soluble in motor oil
A very famous FORD racer blew up over 20 302 drag and road race motors assembling with white grease
BTW it is not hard to make an adjustable oil pressure relief valve with the external BBM pump
Oil specs change all the time
IDK if Diesel is still the way to go
I'm using the Euro spec full synthetic- It's made from Natural Gas so is it even oil? 0W-40 and others
usually expensive (it's specked for BMW, Mercedes etc but Wally world has it for less than $25 4 5 quart jug.
The better the base stock the less friction modifiers needed, better film strength so less EP additives, etc
not so famous bob
Well-Known Member
Do u know that Chrysler used to say to use white lube on bearings for ur dragrace engine? I used it on two diff 426 hemi`s, one a race motor , the other a street hemi, never had a problem. The white lube would totally disappear w/ engine run after a while. It had a higher viscosity than oil back in the old days, and would cling instead of slinging out as fast. Of course now there are newer and higher priced assembly products around. By the way, I raced that hemi for 14 yrs, w/ no major break downs, (except a dropped valve, and a trans explosion) , it would still run but was wore out the last time I saw it.
wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
problem with the FORDS was that it cooked hard
they buzzed them up quickly to break in the cams- good for the cams bad for the bearings
What we wondered is why it took so many motors to figure it out
their cams did not look so good either with no EP in the White Grease
back in the day we used STP + oil and other concoctions
as you say there are better assembly lubes now
cheers
they buzzed them up quickly to break in the cams- good for the cams bad for the bearings
What we wondered is why it took so many motors to figure it out
their cams did not look so good either with no EP in the White Grease
back in the day we used STP + oil and other concoctions
as you say there are better assembly lubes now
cheers
lewtot184
Well-Known Member
we used to use Lubriplate (white stuff) without issue back in the day. I always thought the real issue with it was drying up if the engine sit for a long time.
I said a little just to make sure pump sucks. STP?problem with the FORDS was that it cooked hard
they buzzed them up quickly to break in the cams- good for the cams bad for the bearings
What we wondered is why it took so many motors to figure it out
their cams did not look so good either with no EP in the White Grease
back in the day we used STP + oil and other concoctions
as you say there are better assembly lubes now
cheers
I'd prime the motor also to wash out white lube.
wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
what does everyone else use
Vaseline? Assembly lube?
Maybe I just do not like White Grease
Vaseline? Assembly lube?
Maybe I just do not like White Grease
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If it's not going to sit for a period of time, motor oil is good enough.
My newly rebuilt 440 sat for six months. Used a drill to prime it before first startup and it picked right up.
My newly rebuilt 440 sat for six months. Used a drill to prime it before first startup and it picked right up.
lewtot184
Well-Known Member
I use assembly lube anymore, but I keep a tub of lubriplate around. with modern lubes available now lubriplate has taken a back seat. the modern stuff will take more pressure but i'm not throwing the white stuff out;... yet.
Changed oil on my car and got side tracked with filter off. Started it up and shut it down, no oil pressure, pump lost its prime. Remove PS oil pump pita, never again.
oldbee
Well-Known Member
I don’t know what to say, never personally had an oil pump lose prime. Ur in the middle of a job, finish it! Yes, it’s pretty tight quarters down there, if I remember right, you can’t ‘remove’ any of the bolts before the pump is off the block; but it’s doable. Same for going back on. I’ve always loved “lubricant-plate” also.
oldbee
Well-Known Member
Really LOL, didn’t realize you had p/s. Mine is manual,,, a little less pita!
Forgot when I change the oil I remove P/S pump. Real tough to get oil filter out without making a REAL mess!
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Holy **** this went viral! Hahaha thanks for all the good info guys!
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