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Chrysler 300 1966 440 engine

slimt

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Hi. A 1966 300 440 anygood for a transplant to a 66 charger? Charger has a 383 but is showing signs of age.
Any one here just done rings and reassemble? Or is it wize to send out for a complete overhaul?

My charger is using oil. Im not sure really how to go about anything engine wize.

Suggestions would be great. Thank you
 
What do you know about the 440 motor? Has it been sitting?
 
What do you know about the 440 motor? Has it been sitting?
Hi. No its a running 440 guy claims its a tnt not sure what that stands for though. He currently drives the car. 68000 miles on the body i was told the 440 was freshened up.
 
Hi. No its a running 440 guy claims its a tnt not sure what that stands for though. He currently drives the car. 68000 miles on the body i was told the 440 was freshened up.
If I'm wrong someone will correct me but i don't think they made the "TNT" in 66, TNT is the Plymouth equivalent to the dodge "magnum" motor. That being said I dunno if I'd trust it and just throw it in my car.
 
Well if it is a tnt it's not org to the 300 so you'll need to figure out what year it is . Run a comp test on it before you buy it comp test will show you alot for not alot of effort
 
Is the 383 the original engine?
yes.. the 383 is original to the charger.. I bought the car .. and found reciepts of it being rebuilt at 60.000 miles.. the car has 63.000 so something did not work out right.. back preasure relaxing the gas pedal.. drivers side shows smoke.
 
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Ya.. not sure thats why I was asking.. he did say it had a forged crank,, but to me really means nothing..
 
Remove the spark plugs ,if it is burning oil it will be visable on the spark plug.If your not looking for anything more than stock performance than the original 383 is the way to go.
 
Remove the spark plugs ,if it is burning oil it will be visable on the spark plug.If your not looking for anything more than stock performance than the original 383 is the way to go.


Hi.. not looking to make a race car.. I just want to make Im doing things right..
 
If you are able,start by removing the plugs for inspection.Then perform a compression test or leakdown test.
If you are not able,you will need to find someone who is and has the testing ability.
 
If you are able,start by removing the plugs for inspection.Then perform a compression test or leakdown test.
If you are not able,you will need to find someone who is and has the testing ability.
Hi.. I do have a compression tester and can remove the plugs.. Not much room in the old girls though..
 
If I'm wrong someone will correct me but i don't think they made the "TNT" in 66, TNT is the Plymouth equivalent to the dodge "magnum" motor. That being said I dunno if I'd trust it and just throw it in my car.


Sorry to correct you but the TNT was available in the full Chrysler line in 66.
 
If it were easy,everyone would do it!Take your time and write down the results!
I had one of these last year.. I really wanted to burn it.. this was a aweful car to work on..:)

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Sorry to correct you but the TNT was available in the full Chrysler line in 66.
Yes Plymouth called them Commando/Super Commando. 440s are great in B-bodies, but a matching 383 though...that will keep your car's value and anything with an original big-block powertrain is just cool!
 
Something else to keep in mind. If the piston rings are in poor shape, there's a good chance the bearings are getting that way, too.
Only one cure...complete overhaul...and be done with it.
 
I would suggest just doing a rebuild. By the time you get to the point where you're changing the rings, 90% of the rebuild disassembly work is already done.
 
yes.. the 383 is original to the charger.. I bought the car .. and found reciepts of it being rebuilt at 60.000 miles.. the car has 63.000 so something did not work out right.. back preasure relaxing the gas pedal.. drivers side shows smoke.

OK, hold on here guys.....the engine was rebuilt 3000 miles ago.

SLIMT --> Can you please copy & post copies of the receipts for the rebuild you found just so all of us can see EXACTLY what was done when the motor was "rebuilt"? The term "rebuilt" has a lot of different meanings.

IF this engine was truly, completely rebuilt (rings, bearings, machine work, maybe pistons, cam, timing chain, etc, etc) Then there is at least a "chance" that the smoke is something simple.... one valve seal mis-installed, one head gasket not properly seated, one valve cover mis-installed dropping oil on the exhaust, one bad plug, etc, etc, etc.

It "might" be that the engine wasn't "fully rebuilt" or maybe it sat so long that two cylinders rusted up & messed up the rings in two cylinders....but let's see what we're working with first IMO.

Hemiitis has a good idea.... DEFINITELY pull the plugs, number which cylinder they came out of and inspect them. Heck, put in a new set of plugs while you're at it. IF you or someone you know can run a compression test, that would be a good idea too.

I agree with Beanhead too. If you're not racing the car & just want a good-running motor, I'd keep the original 383 if possible.
 
Thats one thing i noticed when i had the drivers side valve cover off. No rubber valve guide boots. I thought that was normal to have those in place but none of the valve stems have those. I never checked the pass side though. I will post the reciepts and info tonight as well.
 
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