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Cleaning old nuts and bolts....Who makes a quality wire wheel ??

I use 1/4 inch plastic sheet scraps. Different size holes and spacing to allow enough room to properly sandblast and paint. Just make sure any bolts that have washers on them, you push all the washers down from the hex. I try to group them all together by size/head marking. Once they are mounted they stay put for blasting and painting. If the threads are really rusty I thread them all the way in on the board and sandblast the threaded side also. Just prime the threads don’t paint, it always chips off when you install it. Any exposed threads that show after assembly I touch them up when the car is finished, along with any other assembly blunders.

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I'm going through buckets of old factory nuts, bolts and screws and cleaning them up.
I like having clean bolts at hand when working on my cars.
I have used a few different brands of 6" and 8" wire wheels on my 8" bench grinder and none of them have stood out as being any better than the other. I did buy one from a NAPA store that flew apart in a few minutes, sending wire clumps everywhere...
I've bought No-Name wheels from Hazard Fraught, O'Rielleys, NAPA and even Ace hardware.
I'm okay with spending a few bucks for better quality. Having wires fly out and stick in my shirt and pants isn't fun!
Anyone have a suggestion ?

When I was restoring my GTS I had three Harbor Freight tumblers going damn near 24/7. Went through quite a bit of abrasive. I went through all three, totally worn out however given the amount of nuts and bolts well worth it. I still have creamer containers full of separated nut, bolts and washers
 
for cleaning glass is better than sand as it wears the metal less and does a better job
 
I use my Franklin Arsenal steel pin tumbler. Works wonders. I can do about 3-5 lbs of hardware at time. Cleans anything that can fit in the hole. Set the timer and walk away. The steel pin action disintegrates the rust. If it can get into the primer pockets of my 308 cases it can get everywhere. Good for small brackets and clips and j bolts.

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Wire wheels all eventually shed wire. Just part of the fun. Do not push too hard, it's actually counterproductive. The tip of the wire does the work. Cheap covid wheels will fall apart.

If you have money to spare ( burn), it looks like Summit is taking a page from Eastwood in the ridiculous tool department...:rolleyes:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nth-5000
 
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....how's it work on grease and oil deposits?

Not as well as turpentine and atf. It works on rust but doesn't affect any paint or finish that might be on them.

I have used muriatic acid on zinc plated fasteners to remove the zinc coating. And it is a quick dip. I have had some parts eat away by leaving them in too long.
 
How long does it take for the freshly cleaned hardware to start rusting again? Do you guys paint these items after using them?
Being in Northern CA, it isn't humid enough to rust again...at all.
 
How long does it take for the freshly cleaned hardware to start rusting again? Do you guys paint these items after using them?

Working in metal fabrication, making thousands of parts that would go into storage before getting shipped to their destination, they were always sprayed down with WD-40. That was good protection from rust for about a year, being on the east coast with the seasonal humidity.
 
I wire brush the bolt heads first, than clamp a vise grip on the head and then do the threads...Never throw bolts or grind off skin that way...............MO

I'll take a long bolt of the same size and use a nut to fasten the bolt I'm wire brushing to the end of it. End to end with the nut fastening the two together. Tighten with two wrenches. The long bolt works as my handle. Works great when doing real short bolts.

You can use the long bolt to hold a nut that you're wire brushing also, just don't hold it against the wheel in the direction that will thread it off the bolt. You'll never find the nut again! :D
 
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