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Complete new front suspension DELIVERED. QA1 everything w/SPC UCAs Advice? Tips?

You know the tire size? And you want the fender lip about 1-2 inches higher or lower, so you add or subtract and measure from the center of the spindle to the lip. Jack the lca up to get you where you need to be, now install the tb. This will get you really close to where you want, now dial it in with the adjuster bolt.
 
This came in already! The rest is all due Monday!
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:thumbsup:

:bananadance:
 
This came in already! The rest is all due Monday!
View attachment 682730

Is your current front end stock?

I almost considered the QA1 setup but decided to reenforce the stock front end, with all new steering components.
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Night and day difference, and I too would recommend the Borgeson steering upgrade.

Very curious to see how well this works out for you, good luck.
Will you be changing out things on the back end as well?
 
Is your current front end stock?
Replaced the upper and lower ball joints with Moog. Installed Viking 18 way double adjustable front shocks about a year ago.
At Cruisin the Coast 1st week of October, discovered one of the UCA bolts nut was stripped, and ruined my front tires, but didn't wreck the car and no one died. Even referred, decades long experience old school alignment guys could never get it just right, limited by the UCA lack of sufficient adjustability.
I too would recommend the Borgeson steering upgrade.
Well I always thought you had to have power steering for that, BUT:
"This new unit from Borgeson will work for both manual and power steering cars."
https://www.streetmusclemag.com/pro...-82-mopar-steering-box-upgrade-with-borgeson/
I may go to power steering when I do this:
https://www.cvfracing.com/black-dia...ig-block-mopar-alternator-only-all-inclusive/
I will eventually add their Air Conditioning unit too.
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The Borgeson steering box looks GREAT!
(On the left, for those who didn't know, like me)
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Will you be changing out things on the back end as well?
Definitely! Either Gerst or RMS triangulated rear suspension!
 
I kept power steering on my car as it does help here in So Cal. with so many cars on the road, parking specifically.
Either way you'll get a better driving experience with the Borgeson upgrade if you do go that route.
I recently switched over to serpentine belts and so far so good (I have the two belt setup) but I'm not gonna run AC though.

Right now I have Hotchkis adjustable shocks on all 4 corners, front shocks have roughly 22 points of adjustment and the rear 15 (give or take).
I decided to stay with mono-tube shocks but did consider the Vikings as well, got to good a deal last year on a black Friday sale...
Also have the Hotchkis leaf springs (noticeably dropped the rear 1-2") with an Addco .75" rear sway bar.

At some point in the future I may consider the RMS or Gerst front and rear, but first will be a larger brake/wheel/tire upgrade to get all I can with T-Bars and leaf springs with all new and in most cases upgraded steering & suspension parts.
 
RMS or Gerst front and rear, but first will be a larger brake/wheel/tire upgrade to get all I can with T-Bars and leaf springs with all new and in most cases upgraded steering & suspension parts.
The FIRST thing I did to my Roadrunner was switched out the front drums for discs. Got the appx. $650 kit via Dr Diff from The Right Stuff folks. 11" drilled and slotted rotors, single piston calipers, and a replacement manual master cylinder. It has the round black plastic caps, and although Cass sent me replacement caps that were a little thicker, I STILL have problems with air getting in the lines and fluid leaking past the caps. The kit came with new spindles too, and I don't know what "kind" of spindles they are, but I will find out.....
BECAUSE.....
For my wife's GTO, Quick Performance owes me a MAJOR favor because of their mess up on a part of the rear axle housing that is welded to the housing, which I paid $400 extra to have it powder coated. So even if I had the incorrect LCA brackets cut off (they are supposed to have multiple attachment holes along with the stock location so the UMI lower lift bars (LCAs) can be tweaked to change the IC for traction.) and replaced with the correct ones, the powdercoat would be ruined.
So they have to remake the rear axle housing, and I am taking the opportunity to change from factory springs with shocks to coil overs, which I almost did from the get go, but some people convinced me to do the stock layout and use an aftermarket coilover conversion kit if I decided to go that route. Well the rear is too low, reinstalling the load leveling air bags inside the new stock height springs is problematic because the spring perches are different on the QP rear axle housing, and changing out the current spring perch rubber "cushioning pads" to thicker ones to raise the rear end, even if that gets me to a height that is satisfactory, still doesn't allow for any height adjustment, so more than likely I'm going to go with coilovers and have the replacement axle housing setup for them by QP. I also missed my measurements of the width of the rear axle (I told them to cut it 2" narrower than stock 1965 width) We wound up having to use 1/4" spacers on each side because on one side the inside of the tire was slightly rubbing on the inner fender sheet metal-which I could probably hammer out to keep that from happening, but since I'm getting a new housing anyway, I will just have them cut it 1 1/4" narrower than stock and that should allow me to eliminate the spacers (and hopefully still use the SAME alloy axles that were part of the QP package)
SO BECAUSE of that mess up, and I am going to have to pay for the labor to have the rear axle housing swapped out and all of the components and parts swapped over, I am going to upgrade to a really high end Wilwood 4 wheel disc brake system on my Roadrunner, with my new 17" wheels all around, I'm going to use the Wilwood setup that we just had installed in my wife's GTO (dual piston lightweight calipers, 12.19" front discs, 11" rear w/parking brake)...THAT is going to be the baseline option, with 2 other higher end, larger front diameter rotors, multiple piston calipers systems for me to choose from, just going to make sure the rear discs are not too big in case I have to go to a smaller than 17" diameter wheel one day for dedicated slicks at the track.
That is a REALLY long way of saying that I've already upgraded the brakes, but I have plans to go further, and although I was tempted to go with the Gerst front suspension (DAMN that system is NICE!) for what I wanted the system I got is perfect, and with the difference in price between the front suspension I bought vs the Gerst, RMS, Magnum Force, etc I can pay for the RMS or Gerst triangulated rear suspension system, and THAT is something I have DEFINITELY wanted for a couple of years.
 
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