Confused. Need help with Rocker Arms.

[combatsp]

I bought some Stealth Aluminum heads and they say I need rocker arms on the intake that are .650 off set. Are stock 440 rocker arms not off set? I had Crane gold roller rockers on the stock heads. Will they fit on the new heads or do I need to buy a new valve train? Thanks for any help.

 

[eagleone1983]

I've got Stealth Heads and never heard anything about needed non-stock rockers. I've got comp cam magnums bolted to mine and they line up just fine. I haven't fired the motor yet but just from a visual outlook they should work just fine.

 

[Cazbah362]

Are they Stealths or Super Stealths? Supers have the offset rockers, Stealths are like Eddy RPM/Factory with no offset.

 

[67 coronet]

cazbah is right,super stealths are the ones that require the offset arms.if you have supers,take a look at mancini to see some priceing on offset rockers.

 

[combatsp]

I do not have the super stealths. I have the CNC machined stealths. Maybe that is where I got confused. Also do I need different push rods when switching from stock rockers to roller rockers? I have hydraulic lifters if that matters.

 

[67 B-body]

I do not have the super stealths. I have the CNC machined stealths. Maybe that is where I got confused. Also do I need different push rods when switching from stock rockers to roller rockers? I have hydraulic lifters if that matters.

Only way to know is to measure.... Put on the heads, stick a factory pushrod in and check it at 0 lift and then at max lift. The start and end points should be close to the same distance on either side of the valve stem to center of the roller on your rocker.
If it's not the same, you'll have to get an adjustable pushrod to get the correct length, measure that pushrod once you have it right, and finaly order yourself a set at that length.... Its the only way anyone can do it and be right....

 

[67 coronet]

I do not have the super stealths. I have the CNC machined stealths. Maybe that is where I got confused. Also do I need different push rods when switching from stock rockers to roller rockers? I have hydraulic lifters if that matters.

yes,pushrod ends need to be differnt.plus you need to check length requirements depending on your final setup.once you get everything short of the pushrods you will need to take a measurement,possably you will need to buy an adjustable pushrod to get length.i know mancini and possably 440 source make rods for this.

 

[Budnicks]

You will probably need, 5/16" Cup & ball ends, {same thing with solid/mechanical cam or solid roller lifters just no pre-load to check} with adjustable rockers & hydraulic lifter style push rods if you are using Crane Super Gold Roller Rockers, you don't want any more than about 3-4 theads on the adjuster sticking out of the bottom of the rockers or you will have an oil starvation to the cup end of the push rod & wear out quickly or break the adjuster screws... also try Smith Brothers Push Rods for your custom length Push rods... Sometimes if you already have push rods that are just slightly to short, just a set of 16 hardened 0.50" or thicker lash caps to fit over the top of the valve tip, {the tip should be either 11/32" or 3/8" valve tips} you need to measure the valve tip & depth of the area above the valve locks & retainers, to order the proper size, inside diameter depths & thickness of the lash caps, they are also a much larger outside diameter than the valve tip diameter & a taller surface area for the roller rockers tips to ride on, {they will take up the extra length needed & still maintain proper rocker to valve geometry}... If you have a smaller base circle aftermarket camshaft you will need longer custom length push rods for sure... It is a good idea to check mfgr. suggest hydraulic lifter pre-load, & rocker to valve tip geometry & have the proper push rod lengths on any performance build, especially with aftermarket camshaft, lifters & adjustable rockers...

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

I got the 440source set up for my stealth heads works fine just get spacers shims. Assembly is a breeze just start in the middle and work your way outward good price too for china made sort of lol. Oh and x2 what everyone else said to do! good luck and happy moparing

I LOVE ENGINE ****

 

[combatsp]

I got the 440source set up for my stealth heads works fine just get spacers shims. Assembly is a breeze just start in the middle and work your way outward good price too for china made sort of lol. Oh and x2 what everyone else said to do! good luck and happy moparing

Do you know what size push rods you used for your set up? I was thinking of buying the 440 source rocker arms. This is my very first engine build and this is the one thing (that I know of) that I over looked. I real want to get to the track by June. My father helped me assemble the engine and had a concern about how the cup of the rod met the rocker arm. He said it looked like it went to far into the rocker arm. I wasn't really sure what he meant. But figured I better look into it. If anyone has any comments on that I would appreciate it. Thanks guys for the help. I'm learning slowly but surely.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Yep I have the "RB" 9.180 long, I used the adjustable rod tool to make sure was worth the couple of bucks I spent on it. My set up has a hydraulic xtreame energy cam and solid roller lifters No pre load. 493 Eagle Stroker kit, When I measured it it was right at 9.1" My 440/493 runs at 180° all day cruising has some lifter noise but has not grenade'd yet lol

 

[Cazbah362]

CombatSP: As for the 440source rocker, I would look at others, IMO, they are not the best setup. I had a few issues, needed to notch out the head, and they did not perform to what I expected. Also, they have needle bearings, not a fan. I think you could do better in CompCams or even some other form of foreign made brand. I would do steel with a bronze bushing, again, my .02 cents.

Also, on the pushrods, call the guys (al I believe) at Manton Push Rods in Southern Calif. They can help you with your pushrods and how to check for proper length, guy was a wealth of knowledge for me. You can go with being close, but your engine, a little extra time and a little knowledge and pride knowing you got it right goes a long ways at 6000 RPM in a RB/B motor.

I got the 440source set up for my stealth heads works fine just get spacers shims. Assembly is a breeze just start in the middle and work your way outward good price too for china made sort of lol. Oh and x2 what everyone else said to do! good luck and happy moparing

Do you know what size push rods you used for your set up? I was thinking of buying the 440 source rocker arms. This is my very first engine build and this is the one thing (that I know of) that I over looked. I real want to get to the track by June. My father helped me assemble the engine and had a concern about how the cup of the rod met the rocker arm. He said it looked like it went to far into the rocker arm. I wasn't really sure what he meant. But figured I better look into it. If anyone has any comments on that I would appreciate it. Thanks guys for the help. I'm learning slowly but surely.

 

[combatsp]

I will probably measure the push rods to be sure. The engine was professionally built when I bought it. I have since swapped the cam(545 lift), lifters, heads so the pushrods might need to be a different length. It will be a little time consuming but not too difficult.

Here are some pics of my project so far. The new engine is in the car now. Just tying up some loose ends. Picture #2 shows the old 383 on the stand and the new 440 to the right. Picture #3 shows the engine as I bought it before I started rebuilding it to race.

440 .30 over, Stealth CNC machined heads, Comp Extreme .545 Cam, Compression 10.2:1, Performer RPM intake, 800 Edelbrock Carb, Hughes 3500 Stall converter, 4:10 Richmonds gears. I am aiming for low 12's to high 11's.

 

[67 coronet]

I will probably measure the push rods to be sure. The engine was professionally built when I bought it. I have since swapped the cam(545 lift), lifters, heads so the pushrods might need to be a different length. It will be a little time consuming but not too difficult.

Here are some pics of my project so far. The new engine is in the car now. Just tying up some loose ends. Picture #2 shows the old 383 on the stand and the new 440 to the right. Picture #3 shows the engine as I bought it before I started rebuilding it to race.

440 .30 over, Stealth CNC machined heads, Comp Extreme .545 Cam, Compression 10.2:1, Performer RPM intake, 800 Edelbrock Carb, Hughes 3500 Stall converter, 4:10 Richmonds gears. I am aiming for low 12's to high 11's.

very nice 68.real rt?i am a bit envious,68 charger is my fav car.sadly also first year for smog requirements here in vegas,thats why i am building a 67 coronet.

 

[combatsp]

very nice 68.real rt?i am a bit envious,68 charger is my fav car.sadly also first year for smog requirements here in vegas,thats why i am building a 67 coronet.

Thanks, No not a real R/T. This was my first car I ever bought and at the time could not afford a real R/T. I want an R/T but don't want to part with the car. Too much sentimental value.