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Crank wont turn.....

Call the machine shop and ask: "How much to assemble this engine?" My shop does it by the hour and you may be surprised how little it may cost. Another 10%? Engine assembly is something most people can accomplish, but even a little mistake can be costly in time and money.

"Engine assembly is something most people can accomplish" Not sure who you consider "most people", maybe most car people or most people on this forum?

https://nypost.com/2018/06/15/most-americans-have-no-idea-whats-going-on-under-the-hood/

https://www.foxnews.com/auto/many-americans-dont-know-basic-car-care-study-finds
 
I admire your determination in doing this yourself - it will feel pretty good when it's all together and running, knowing it's your own work.
I do think you should get someone to give you a hand though, maybe ask the guys at the shop that did all the work if any of them wants to earn a few dollars or a few cartons of beer to give you a hand after hours?
It would still be your baby, but you would know it's all been put together right.
Good luck either way.
 
I hope my prior post dosen't seem like too much of a rant.
When I built my first engine, a 318, I was that guy who made a ton of mistakes. I was 14 years old, and ignorant of what I didn't know.
I'm 57 now, and still ignorant of what I didn't know, but I know to ask those with a better understanding on the subject.
It is best to have some mentor who has some experience. There is several places where it is easy to make mistakes in engine assembly.
Also, some parts of "building" an engine may require special tools that many people don't have.
There is also the difference between "building" and "assembling" an engine.
It is alot easier to assemble an engine with the same parts that were removed from the engine, than build a new engine with parts that have never been fitted together before. When making changes to the original engine, there are many more measurements and checking, and fitting needed. Really need to get into the "Blueprinting" of the engine. This may require tools like valve spring height mics, spring pressure testers, pushrod length testers, micrometers, dial bore gauges, dial indicators, degree wheels, and more tools most home enthusiasts may not have.
Then after checking everything, you need to know, and have the tools to correct and problems found.
One peev of mine is when someone has a problem installing an intake manifold, and they oval out the bolt holes so it will bolt on. Now the intake is bolted on, but the ports are out of alignment. I have seen professionals do this too, and they should know better, but usually it is based on either being cheap or in a hurry to get the job done.
 
My first, I was 17. My dad hired a mechanic to help me assemble it. I learned a lot and the motor ran great. It made a horrible racket on start up, the original 265 oil pan was hit by the 350 crank. Whoo, close one. I was building it for a girlfriend. My daily driver was a 66 Charger
 
Crisis averted. I pulled all of the piston/rod sets and laid them on the table. Inspected them with MY DAMN GLASES ON this time...lol. Yes, they all had 1-8 numbers on the rods and caps. I had 3 on backwards and the wrong sets in the wrong bores on 6 of them. So, I lined up 1357 and 2468 on the table. I installed them in those orders as well. taking care to get the caps round right way. all torqued down and turns via a 10" crescent wrench, easily. All good. The bearings were all okay but I cleaned them and relubed them anyway and wiped everything down and recoated with clean oil. All good now. Waiting on the oil slinger from Cranky before placing the timing cover and balancer..
Thank you to all here who chimed in with advice and knowledge. You guys are the best. Thanks to 69Bee for the phone conversation and his insights into the issue. Cheers!
Ghost
 
Hey friends, I have a little issue. I'm assembling my 440 and have run into a snag. Having followed the directions of my handbook, the advice of my engine shop and common sense, I am stumped. After installing new .040 Speed Pro pistons, new bearings, both mains and rods, and installing the camshaft and timing chain set.... the thing wont rotate. Not by hand anyway.. If I don't torque down the rod caps I can turn the crank with a 4 foot cheater bar and rotate the cylinders. It's tight but spins with out any noticeable hang-ups. I used assembly lube everywhere, lots of it. Oiled the cylinder walls, floated the pistons and connecting rods in engine oil, 100% synthetic oil...Everything is spotless. As soon as I torque down the rod cap nuts to 45 ft lbs it freezes up and wont spin. I don't want to break anything but what now? Loosen the rod cap nuts and it will spin. Is it a combination of all new bearings, rings and pistons? Thoughts please. Ghost.
Just go to your nearby auto parts store and get yourself some Plasti-guage. Follow the instructions in the package and compare the results with Chrysler specs. Then check Speed Pro's specs. You didn't say it spun before disassembly or that you made sure the rods were facing the right way on the pins. If the caps match both inside and out, thrust was checked (which easily gets eaten-up if replacement bearings are not properly spec'd. and you find nothing, you'll need to mic. everything. I'll be surprised if the Plasti-guage doesn't tell you that you have incorrect bearings.
 
You assembled an engine without knowing what your bearing clearances are ??? You don't go to the next step without knowing that.
 
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