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Crankshaft Snout Wear 440 Six Pack Factory Crankshaft

motorparts92

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  • So i have a 440 engine, Factory Replacement Engine (built in mid-year 1970) with stock rotating assembly. Forged steel crankshaft, factory six pack connecting rods, factory 9.7:1 cast pistons. The crank is original standard grind, with about 30,*** miles of light abuse. Oil pressure is perfect and very consistent. The snout on my crank, of which the Vibration Damper (balancer, whatever) is in stalled, is worn significantly enough to be heard in the vehicle. I stuck a damper from another engine that was NEAR IMPOSSIBLE to remove on the crank, and it moves in all directions about .0010" It is chewing out six pack dampers at the keyway (widening the channel) So my question is, is this a sign of the woodruff key itself being worn, or am i BLEEPED in the BLEEP. Also, if the crank itself is worn, is there any other solution besides trashing it?
 
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You can have the O.D. of the crank Hard-Chromed and ground to the correct diameter and you'll be fine. Trying to find someone
local to do this may be challenging, but worth it in the long run. The woodruff keyway can be machined deeper in the crank
BEFORE chrome plating if need be and the key itself can be stepped to fit the stock damper. Always check the interfearance fit
before assembeling press-on parts. the interfearance should be 0.001 to 0.0015 when finished. Good luck with the build!
 
Look for industrial chrome
Any shop that does heavy equipment repairs can direct you
 
Thanks guys! The engine is still in the car that it was installed in around mid 1970. It is a 4 speed car, so these parts can be victims from time to time. I really hate to bust the bottom end apart unless absolutely necessary. I even thought about having a damper chrome plated on the inside instead of the crank itself, to save me from having to remove it. Keep em coming! this is an important sentimental project and i want to keep it as original as possible. I haven't even removed the water pump yet, just took the bolt out of the crank and pulled the damper off with my bare hands, so i am going to start with a new woodruff key and see how that does. thanks again!
 
Thanks guys! The engine is still in the car that it was installed in around mid 1970. It is a 4 speed car, so these parts can be victims from time to time. I really hate to bust the bottom end apart unless absolutely necessary. I even thought about having a damper chrome plated on the inside instead of the crank itself, to save me from having to remove it. Keep em coming! this is an important sentimental project and i want to keep it as original as possible. I haven't even removed the water pump yet, just took the bolt out of the crank and pulled the damper off with my bare hands, so i am going to start with a new woodruff key and see how that does. thanks again!

If you want to keep it simple, please refer to my suggestion about the loc-Tite product. It works great, and have used it on a customers balancer/crank with about 0.020" slop. Less than $20, and 1/2hr!

http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Retain.../dp/B000O03DK0
http://www.loctite.sg/sea/content_da...g_Compound.pdf
 
If you want to keep it simple, please refer to my suggestion about the loc-Tite product. It works great, and have used it on a customers balancer/crank with about 0.020" slop. Less than $20, and 1/2hr!

http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Retain.../dp/B000O03DK0
http://www.loctite.sg/sea/content_da...g_Compound.pdf

I definitely will try it out! It's too expensive for auto zone to carry, so it must actually do some good!

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It's not that I want to keep it simple, It's just such an original car that I don't want to interfere with whatever voodoo force that lives within it, it runs too good! lol
 
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