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CVF WRAPTOR serpentine belt and accessory system..ANYONE HAVE ONE?

Yeah I really like it. I was gonna fab up my own, but can’t beat this thing for the price.

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Yeah I really like it. I was gonna fab up my own, but can’t beat this thing for the price.

View attachment 993338
Lol. I didn't realize you had one too. That looks like the straight black version, not black diamond w/exposed aluminum accents, and a Gen 2 Hemi, right?
The individual coil packs and EFI have me confused...
 
Lol. I didn't realize you had one too. That looks like the straight black version, not black diamond w/exposed aluminum accents, and a Gen 2 Hemi, right?
The individual coil packs and EFI have me confused...
Yes, straight black on a gen2 hemi
 
It’s over 120* of wrap, should be plenty. My high draw accessories, P/S and Alt have huge wrap!
I'm very glad it works!
I don't disagree, but given how many people ask or doubt the amount of belt contact on the Wraptor is sufficient, I felt compelled to ask. If you look at them together, it looks pretty close, and I think the Wraptor may have an angle of contact that may even be a little better.
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I'm very glad it works!
I don't disagree, but given how many people ask or doubt the amount of belt contact on the Wraptor is sufficient, I felt compelled to ask. If you look at them together, it looks pretty close, and I think the Wraptor may have an angle of contact that may even be a little better.
View attachment 995580 View attachment 995581

The water pump doesn't have the HP draw that some of the other accessories have, so doesn't require as much belt wrap to prevent slipping. Mine has 126* of contact. The biggest issue's I see in aftermarket setups is lack of wrap on the alternator (I have 180*), and lack of power steering wrap (I have 218*). If you autocross your car, the power steering will be the first to slip the belt without sufficient wrap. If you run a relatively high amp alternator, it will be next. The setup you posted looks really good, with very good belt wrap.
 
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I just noticed that pic I posted didn't have the power steering pump.
Here's the same system I have, but in aluminum so the belt is easier to see:
Screenshot_20200831-073654_Chrome.jpg

I can see the power steering (GM II) pump doesn't have as much wrap as your setup, but I'm not autocrossing. Also, the Wraptor has a wider belt and pulleys than most. 8 groove vs 5.
I think it's great you made your own. I am only showing mine because it is in the process of being installed.
 
Just as an update to this, my one wire, self exciting alternator will randomly decide to not “unexcite” and drains the battery dead as a doornail. I’ll call CVF on Monday and see what the fix is.
 
I'm about to change out the fan motor on my 17" Cooling Components fan and shroud assembly. It smoked when I had the high beams on. I think my dimmer switch and maybe the connections to it for the headlight system is badly corroded, because the headlights were always dim at idle with the factory output alternator. Now with the Wraptor 140 AMP alternator, the lights aren't dim, but they must be drawing a LOT of current, so when I hit the high beams after about 8-10 minutes of them pulling current out, the fan must have been seeing too much voltage, and POOF.
I have limited choices for fans, because I only have 3" between the radiator and Wraptor pulleys.
I MUST find out what is making the headlights pull so much power and fix that. A friend suggested switching to a relay system.
 
I'm about to change out the fan motor on my 17" Cooling Components fan and shroud assembly. It smoked when I had the high beams on. I think my dimmer switch and maybe the connections to it for the headlight system is badly corroded, because the headlights were always dim at idle with the factory output alternator. Now with the Wraptor 140 AMP alternator, the lights aren't dim, but they must be drawing a LOT of current, so when I hit the high beams after about 8-10 minutes of them pulling current out, the fan must have been seeing too much voltage, and POOF.
I have limited choices for fans, because I only have 3" between the radiator and Wraptor pulleys.
I MUST find out what is making the headlights pull so much power and fix that. A friend suggested switching to a relay system.
I currently have a standard 7 blade mechanical fan, a combination of spacers just over an inch thick and it’s working fine.
As for the relays, it’s a must with that fan and those lights. The fan should be on its own feed and relay as some of those will draw 50A when kicking on.
 
I currently have a standard 7 blade mechanical fan, a combination of spacers just over an inch thick and it’s working fine.
As for the relays, it’s a must with that fan and those lights. The fan should be on its own feed and relay as some of those will draw 50A when kicking on.
The 3" radiator to Wraptor gap doesn't leave room for the kind of "full bladed" flex fan that is on the GTO. See pic of flex fan I'm referring to:
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I have got the replacement fan motor on and wiring passed through the metal blade guard/mount assembly. Next is attach the fan, check for fit and wobble, and then I'll mount the fan+shroud assembly on the radiator, then put that assembly back in my car, wire it up, and not use my high beams until I find out what that problem is.
As for the relays, it’s a must with that fan and those lights. The fan should be on its own feed and relay as some of those will draw 50A when kicking on.
For clarity, I have 2 relays, 2 circuit breakers, and 2 power wires dedicated to the 2 speed fan. The circuit breaker that tripped when the fan motor smoked (I think: from over voltage caused by under current because of the high beams drawing so much power) is the "main 200 amp" breaker.
The relay(s) I am talking about adding would be for the headlights, to "reroute" the electrical path, so all that current no longer passes through the headlight switch on the dash. That and the dimmer switch and those connections are what I suspect.
 
Why so high of a breaker? The breaker should be sized to protect the component it’s powering. I prefer fuses, but regardless, proper sizing could’ve prevented it from burning up.
 
Why so high of a breaker? The breaker should be sized to protect the component it’s powering. I prefer fuses, but regardless, proper sizing could’ve prevented it from burning up.
The 200 AMP breaker is for the entire electrical system. The fan, being a 2 speed that requires BOTH 12V power wires to be energized in order for high speed function to work, and ONE wire energized makes the low speed work, it calls for 2 relays and 2 circuit breakers.
Why the circuit breaker(s) dedicated to each power lead of the fan motor relays didn't trip I can't explain.
Before the "teeth with wings" came out for their all you can eat buffet at sundown, I got the radiator and fan+shroud combo installed. I had put the shroud back on the way the shop had it, but I have such a tiny bit of space between the Wraptor and the shroud fan blade guards, I took it back out and removed a standard nut and lock washer that I feel was redundant and not neccessary, just so I could gain about 1/8th inch additional space. Also, before I start launching the Roadrunner, which I have a few hundred miles to break in the clutch first anyway, I need a 4th bolt attaching point for the radiator to the sheet metal of the radiator support structure. Right now, I only have 2 bolts at the top, and one at the bottom on the driver's side. It looks like a bolt broke off long ago in a nut that is held in the sheetmetal from the factory. With such little space, and the violence of a hard launch, I can't afford to have the radiator move towards the engine, at all.
Anyway, tomorrow morning I'll solder and heat shrink wrap the fan wire connections, fill up the radiator, and test it out. I still have to change the oil and filter in both cars, absolutely a must. I may lean out the GTO a bit because there are a few signs telling me it needs that. Both cars still need to be washed, and I still haven't cleaned the grease and dirt off my beautiful yellow seats.
Too many people just don't care, and the sad thing is, my mechanic is one of the best, "overall", I've met in years.
 
Fan motor replaced, everything reinstalled and wired up. All tested ok.
HEADING OUT TO CRUISIN THE COAST!
:thumbsup::bananadance::bananaweed::confederateflag::drinks::usflag::thankyou::luvplace:
 
did you create a Cruising the Coast 2020 thread?

we need pics!


...ooops...found the thread



watermelon
 
Have installed on my 572 World block and Indy timing chain cover. had to do some shimming as the cover was taller than stock, certainly not CVF fault have installed on a Pontiac 400 as well. Super easy perfect fit. MY only concern with the one on 572 RB one of the spacers blocks a water pump opening and trying to install my Vintage AC unit cause me concern about which is flow to to heater valve ??? May have been answered by a membere on here in another question posted by me :) thanks to all
 
Hopefully I won't have any fitment problems. My Wraptor is on my 440, but I plan on moving it to the 572 BMP block.
 
Fan motor replaced, everything reinstalled and wired up. All tested ok.
I wound up burning up 3 of those fan motors, so I switched to a compact "sail" looking bladed flex fan, and I used the exact same 2 speed circuits for 2 11" SPAL pusher fans. Reconfigured the Dakota Digital fan app settings for 2 fans instead of 1x 2 speed fan, and over 2 years have had zero problems.
 
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