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disc brake conversion (I know, not another one)

BigBlock61

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I think I can do this but I'm not sure. I have a 69 Coronet with manual 4 wheel drum. I want to convert to manual disc / drum. Can I just install Mopar disc brakes from a doner along with the proportioning valve and be done with it? Or do I have to use a different master as well?
 
disc drum master is diff from all drum car.easyest is get an adapter plate from some one(mancini racing and lots of others offer them)and bolt a two bolt master up with an adjustable rod and be done.
 
I bought the whole setup from Pirate Jacks to convert my Charger from power 4-wheel drum to manual disc front/drum rear. Hopefully in about 2 weeks I will be able to install it. I think you will need a disc/drum master cylinder also.
 
Call dr. Diff. He explained that on a manual drum car you can use original master with proportioning valve because of the different pressures needed. He does sell a nice master cylinder for 95.00. Good guy to speak to. Good luck.
 
I converted 3 B body ,manual drum brakes to front disc brake setup with 73 duster spindles....hoses,pads,calipher,bearing,install kit from napa and NONE had the master cylinder changed or anything with the prop valve. No issues....see my avitar..the R/T is the most recent disc change.
 
Well I know I said you "have to" earlier so perhaps I should claify.

Now perhaps what I read is wrong but I hear all sorts of different opinions about this subject. I know from what I read from several sources that drum m/c's have a residual valve built into them and that it can cause one's disc brakes to hang ever so slightly. Then I've heard of others who didn't make the m/c swap and their setup works fine. I've read that drum m/c's don't have the correct volume or pressure. Then I've read where it doesn't matter.

I do know that the old cast iron disc m/c has a larger rez for brake fluid opposed to a drum one to account for pad wear. But otherwise it is a who's right? Who's wrong?

However I'd like to point out: these are the brakes to your car! Car's I might add that we all tend to love (for lack of a better word) since we on a forum which focus on.... our cars.

So my view is: why risk it? Ma Mopar made the change and apparently there is SOME difference between the two or else they wouldn't have made the change 'cause I'm sure the bean counters would have put the kibosh on it.

So while I can't speak for the rest of you guys, I will say that it will be a cold day in HELL before I risk my work, my car, my life and the life of others on 'maybes' and opinions when it comes to brakes and a 3500 pound car moving at any high rate of speed.

I too am making the switch to disc brake..so out go the old rubber hoses and in comes the new ones and out goes the drum M/C and in goes a new disc one which is available from Rocksauto for $25+shipping and which is, IMHO, cheap insurance- period. There are somethings that cheaping out on is okay for. You can do it and get away with it. However brakes aren't one of them.

And I mean no offense to those that didn't swap out the M/C. You didn't, it works for you, glad to hear it. Same as those who apparently didn't need a prop valve, I'm glad to hear it! 'Cause that prop valve is a million dollar question for me too. I just come from a slightly different school and while I'm willing to take the 'try it and see' and 'less is more' mindset, like with making a conversion and see if a prop valve is needed, I'm just not willing to risk it with the M/C. Then again that is just me. Thanks for listening.
 
I bought the whole setup from Pirate Jacks to convert my Charger from power 4-wheel drum to manual disc front/drum rear. Hopefully in about 2 weeks I will be able to install it. I think you will need a disc/drum master cylinder also.

Hi Hunt, does you're setup use stock pads and rotors? This is the main reason for this question. I want the reliability of stock parts but the engine I'm planning on will have low vacuum so I want to go with the manual setup.
 
When I did my manual disc setup from drum brake master. I did remove the check valve going to the discs. You use a self tapping screw where the line screws into the master. Then use pliers to remove the fitting and then leave out the spring and plunger on reinstall. Did use a adjustable prop valve until braking was what I wanted. On another car the final braking adjustment was done on glare ice and that really worked well even on wet pavement. Do not cheap out on the brakes, it is too expensive to replace our grilles.
 
When I did my manual disc setup from drum brake master. I did remove the check valve going to the discs. You use a self tapping screw where the line screws into the master. Then use pliers to remove the fitting and then leave out the spring and plunger on reinstall. Did use a adjustable prop valve until braking was what I wanted. On another car the final braking adjustment was done on glare ice and that really worked well even on wet pavement. Do not cheap out on the brakes, it is too expensive to replace our grilles.

Thanks, that's what I remember reading when it comes to the drum master. I'm not looking to cheap out on the brakes. It's more like I want the most bang for my buck and I don't want to have to replace or change something unless it's needed. Also I want to be able to walk into any parts store and get brake parts for the Coronet so aftermarket brakes are out of the question.
 
Hi Hunt, does you're setup use stock pads and rotors? This is the main reason for this question. I want the reliability of stock parts but the engine I'm planning on will have low vacuum so I want to go with the manual setup.


brakes 001.jpg

Here is what I bought. I also had to get a manual master cylinder backing plate in addition to this stuff. The prop valve is a combination unit just like the originals. The kit doesn't use 1969 stock pads & rotors, but they are newer commonly available Mopar parts. I forget exactly what year and models - I wrote it down somewhere though. This was important to me that they took standard Mopar replacement parts when I was researching brake kits.

Kind of hard to read standing on your head, but I don't know how to flip it.
 
When I bought my Charger (69) someone had already converted it, after some digging it turned out they had installed the later 70's spindles and brakes. I bought all my parts for a 73 b body with no issues and went with an all new disc drum master cyl. I can get more info, part #'s and pics if you want (it's all junk yard parts). I might even be getting rid of it (might be getting 2" drop spindles).
 
I just went on pirate jacks website and the prices are very reasonable and they are readily replaceable parts. I may just have to get their kit. You already received their kit hunt? How does it look? Quality stuff or not?

- - - Updated - - -

When I bought my Charger (69) someone had already converted it, after some digging it turned out they had installed the later 70's spindles and brakes. I bought all my parts for a 73 b body with no issues and went with an all new disc drum master cyl. I can get more info, part #'s and pics if you want (it's all junk yard parts). I might even be getting rid of it (might be getting 2" drop spindles).

That's an idea too for the right price. Let me know if you do decide to get rid of it. At the very least the spindles and caliper brackets.
 
Not to distract from the original conversation, I thought I'd wade in with what I found during my disc brake kit searches. Like you, Bigblock, I too didn't want to get stuck with oddball, weird pieces, so I did some asking. I hope some of you find this information useful when it comes to the kits that are out there. This obviously doesn't cover all of the kits for I didn't even talk to the Pirate Jack folks.

I talked to James (a member here at FBBO) who works for P-S-T about their disc conversion kit. The kit seems to be pretty complete with everything needed and it is base on 73 to 76 A Body dart brakes, so parts are readily accessible. And with PST you get free shipping and as B Body members you also get a 10% discount if you mention you are a member when ordering.

I also talked to Wayne at The Ramman. He too offers a kit that is based on the A Body setup. Once again, all parts are available off the shelf. Oh and you can either go with the Dart 11" rotors OR you can go with the Cordoba 11.75" rotors. Cost vary depending on which way you go but according to him, he ships everything except the rotors with his kits.

I also talked to Summit Racing about their kit. They wouldn't confirm that the kit was supplied by SSBC but other members on this forum have order this kit and said it was a repackaged SSBC kit. When asked, they said the pads were readily available at any automotive store. Just ask for pads for a "1969 Plymouth Barracuda". This doesn't surprise me since I've read about this kit is based off of the older A Body/Mustang Kelsey-Hayes 4 piston disc brake setup. Obviously the rotors for this are a bit of an oddball since you'd need the larger wheel bolt pattern but info I got from SSBC said the rotors are available for about $65 from them or Summit if replacements are needed. I also cannot help but wonder if these rotors are actually Ford Mustang rotors since they have a 4.5" WB pattern. Hmmm..perhaps some measurements are in order if someone gets a kit.

Then you have the Scarebird setup. From the members I talked to who run it, it sounds like a good setup and that it works really good. Then again by running big old Ford Galaxie rotors up front, I'm not surprised and I will probably end up going this route when I go to put disc on my '68 Fury.

Lastly there is the SSBC setup which I've heard good things about but which is VERY expensive, IMO.

Price wise the cheapest is an 73 and later A Body disc swap if you can find one. Next would be the scarebird setup which runs about $450 (est). The next 3- PST, Ramman and Summit are within about $50 to $100 of each other with Summit being the most 'spensive at $600. Then the SSBC kit is the most expensive at about a grand when ordered from Summit.

There are variables within the kits. For example the PST kit seems to come with everything from the m/c to the prop valve where as the summit kit does not come with either of those items. The estimated price for the scarebird kit includes everything EXCEPT the prop valve but you have to order the parts (they provide a list of what is needed). So there you have it! I hope I at least helped some of you with your decisions about some of the kits and what they may or may not have to offer. But other than the Summit and SSBC kits, the other kits seem to use off the shelf parts.

Hope that helps.
 
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I just went on pirate jacks website and the prices are very reasonable and they are readily replaceable parts. I may just have to get their kit. You already received their kit hunt? How does it look? Quality stuff or not?

I've had it for awhile now and will be installing it shortly. It looks great. I did post pics of it in my resurrection thread. I did like the fact that this was the closest to a complete kit that is offered. Pirate Jack is working together with the Ramman to make up the kit. Some of the other kits use Chevy pads and rotors which I am sure will work fine, but just didn't seem right to me on our great Mopars.
 
I've had it for awhile now and will be installing it shortly. It looks great. I did post pics of it in my resurrection thread. I did like the fact that this was the closest to a complete kit that is offered. Pirate Jack is working together with the Ramman to make up the kit. Some of the other kits use Chevy pads and rotors which I am sure will work fine, but just didn't seem right to me on our great Mopars.

Thanks Hunt, and don't be stingy with the pics of the install. I'd be really interested in seeing how it goes together and any problems you may run into. I'm sort of torn between buying the kit or just buying the pieces from the auto parts store. The price is about the same with the unknown being the price of the knuckles and caliper brackets.

- - - Updated - - -

Not to distract from the original conversation, I thought I'd wade in with what I found during my disc brake kit searches. Like you, Bigblock, I too didn't want to get stuck with oddball, weird pieces, so I did some asking. I hope some of you find this information useful when it comes to the kits that are out there. This obviously doesn't cover all of the kits for I didn't even talk to the Pirate Jack folks.

I talked to James (a member here at FBBO) who works for P-S-T about their disc conversion kit. The kit seems to be pretty complete with everything needed and it is base on 73 to 76 A Body dart brakes, so parts are readily accessible. And with PST you get free shipping and as B Body members you also get a 10% discount if you mention you are a member when ordering.

I also talked to Wayne at The Ramman. He too offers a kit that is based on the A Body setup. Once again, all parts are available off the shelf. Oh and you can either go with the Dart 11" rotors OR you can go with the Cordoba 11.75" rotors. Cost vary depending on which way you go but according to him, he ships everything except the rotors with his kits.

I also talked to Summit Racing about their kit. They wouldn't confirm that the kit was supplied by SSBC but other members on this forum have order this kit and said it was a repackaged SSBC kit. When asked, they said the pads were readily available at any automotive store. Just ask for pads for a "1969 Plymouth Barracuda". This doesn't surprise me since I've read about this kit is based off of the older A Body/Mustang Kelsey-Hayes 4 piston disc brake setup. Obviously the rotors for this are a bit of an oddball since you'd need the larger wheel bolt pattern but info I got from SSBC said the rotors are available for about $65 from them or Summit if replacements are needed. I also cannot help but wonder if these rotors are actually Ford Mustang rotors since they have a 4.5" WB pattern. Hmmm..perhaps some measurements are in order if someone gets a kit.

Then you have the Scarebird setup. From the members I talked to who run it, it sounds like a good setup and that it works really good. Then again by running big old Ford Galaxie rotors up front, I'm not surprised and I will probably end up going this route when I go to put disc on my '68 Fury.

Lastly there is the SSBC setup which I've heard good things about but which is VERY expensive, IMO.

Price wise the cheapest is an 73 and later A Body disc swap if you can find one. Next would be the scarebird setup which runs about $450 (est). The next 3- PST, Ramman and Summit are within about $50 to $100 of each other with Summit being the most 'spensive at $600. Then the SSBC kit is the most expensive at about a grand when ordered from Summit.

There are variables within the kits. For example the PST kit seems to come with everything from the m/c to the prop valve where as the summit kit does not come with either of those items. The estimated price for the scarebird kit includes everything EXCEPT the prop valve but you have to order the parts (they provide a list of what is needed). So there you have it! I hope I at least helped some of you with your decisions about some of the kits and what they may or may not have to offer. But other than the Summit and SSBC kits, the other kits seem to use off the shelf parts.

Hope that helps.

Thanks Funship32 That is some good information. I'll have to look into some of those choices. I like the idea of using the Cordoba rotors only because it's another B body and roughly the same size and weight.
 
i have used the scarebird kit several times and it works great.there adapter plate and 95ish doge truck calipers.uses 72ish galaxie rotors.for the master i used 79 dodge pickup with adjustable rod and an adapter plate.adjustable prop valve after original diverter block and done.these brake will put you in the windsheild if you stomp hard.super cheep to put together as well.
 
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