Disk Brake Conversion done on my '64 Polara

[Centerline]

Along with a complete front end rebuild (bushings, ball joints etc.), I've finally completed the disk conversion. It's a Heinz 57 but all stock Mopar parts and was a simple bolt on procedure.

'75 Dart spindles and caliper adapters
'76 Dart manual brake master cylinder
'76 Dart slider calipers
'76 Dart brake lines
'77 Dodge Monaco 11.75 rotors

Calipers were moved to the back because of interference with the stock sway bar.

 

[dryheat]

Thanks for this post ... I guess I know what I'm doing next!

 

[Glenwood]

Thanks for this post ... I guess I know what I'm doing next!

That makes two of us!

 

[wilmacmike]

What's the possibility of this conversion being used with the stock 1964 Polara 14" steel wheels?

Do you think the wheels would rub on the calipers?

I would like to convert to front disc brakes, but I want to retain the 14" steel wheels in order to use the stock Polara 500 spinner hubcaps.

Thanks,
Mike
God Bless America

 

[Centerline]

What's the possibility of this conversion being used with the stock 1964 Polara 14" steel wheels?

Do you think the wheels would rub on the calipers?

I would like to convert to front disc brakes, but I want to retain the 14" steel wheels in order to use the stock Polara 500 spinner hubcaps.

Thanks,
Mike
God Bless America

You could do this and use 14" wheels BUT you'll need to use the smaller caliper adapters and the 10.87" rotors. Everything else remains the same.

 

[64Belvedere]

I'm about to do this conversion on my 65 Coronet. I did it on my 64 Belvedere a few years ago and that car burnt that winter in a storage fire. Can you jog my memory on the brake line routing? Which l line is the prop valve plumbed into? I feel stupid after doing it and not remembering. Seems to me the original dist block was just blocked for the rear port and the rears ran through the prop valve. Fronts went through the factory block.

 

[AMX364]

You might have to replace all your brake lines. The single master cylinder uses a multi line connection about 36 inches from the master cylinder. On mine and several others the lines could not be taken off cleanly, rusted on. The line going to the rear brakes is where the adjustable valve should be installed. The line going to the disc brakes(larger size) could run to a 3 way connector. One line to master cylinder, one line to left and last line to right. The right side line CAN be made with the engine in the car, but is much easier if it is out. The front disc brakes run at full pressure all the time and the rear drums at a reduced pressure.

On a daily driver it can be hard to find the sweet spot for braking pressures, dry, wet and icy. On one car I went to a empty clear parking lot when there was glare ice on the roads and tweaked the valve till I had clean stops. After that the brake valve was left alone, the wet road braking was correct also. Much easier to set for dry only.

Due to connections I have been using the Wilwood adjustable valve which connects all the brake lines and valve in one place, without any adapters and is bolted to the master cylinder mounting.
edit: WARNING Mopar uses a odd size fitting on their master cylinder for one side, the other uses a common fitting.

 

[peakandscoot]

where did you get your parts from. I have been looking to covert my 62 Fury but it seems easier to find complete non mopar kits which i would prefer not to do.

 

[Dodge 330]

Nice job!

 

[Centerline]

AMX364 just about covered the brake lines. To answer some of the questions... I picked up the Dart spindles and caliper adapters on E-Bay several years ago for $75. Everything else except the proportioning valve came from RockAuto.com. The valve came from Summit. I think I have about $300+/- invested.