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DIY Paint 101...

Brandy

Jack Stand Racer #6..and proud of it!
FBBO Gold Member
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Salisbury, Vermont
Hey all of you experienced painters and body men out there. How about posting up a few words of wisdom for all of the less proficient MOPAR owners on FBBO? Say, like a glossary of terms for paint and body and a basic tool list and how to stuff. Just an idea....



Update; What? Nobody wants to share?
 
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I'm not sure I'm allowed to reply...I recently painted the entire underside of my 68 Barracuda...using paint cans-spray, primer, base coat and clear. Came out pretty good. In some places it came out great. Sanded it down to bare metal by myself. If it is hot, work fast, cold, pass. I built tents using tarps and had them so tight, not even the smell got out. I used floor fans and that turned out not to be a good idea. It made the paint fumes/dust swirl, and resettle on the paint causing flat spots I had to sand back down. Fans turned out to be a bad idea. I also bought a pistol grip for the cans when I did engine bay. Without them, you end up with massive blisters. Why not spary? Didn't have a compressor way to get one to the house if I rented, no help, and my first time trying this. Looks good.
 
Thanks for replying. I know how to paint and do bodywork. My post was more trying to get others on here to share. I also painted a 1988 lowrider S-10 pickup with rattle cans back in 1992. It came out fine and I also flamed the front end. It was totaled the next month. Sigh.
 
I'll be laying down primer on the undercarriage, engine bay, trunk and interior of the car this summer. Never gone this far but did some research and settled on starting with epoxy primer - BASF Glasurit 801-703. This stuff is not for sale here in Canada so I'll be visiting Buffalo this winter the fetch me some. In addition I still need to get a paint gun, perhaps a starter kit from Eastwood. Figuring out which body filler to use and other re-finishing products is pretty difficult so any advice would be helpful. Evercoat seems to be a reputable company but which of their fillers to use has not been determined (I have not figured out what is best for my mopar ? Rage ? Rage Ultra? Rage Gold etc...)
Overall the resto will take another 2-3 years as I must work in stages. Before any paint is applied I'll be glass bead blasting. If it helps anyone I will post any new findings and experiences here. Good luck with your projects !
 
I am blind...

lol. Thanks Propwash, I did not notice that that sticky at all. My bad.
 
When using any paints, primers or sealers that are 2 part or even single stage always read the label and follow the safety precautions.
You should also read the MSDS sheets click the link.
These chemicals are very toxic and ARE hazardous to your health.
A fresh air system {for breathing} is best when spraying the products.
wear gloves, eye protection, and use caution when handling the liquids when mixing and a shoot suit gloves and some kind of appropriate respirator for the product when spraying.
you need a well ventilated spray booth or at least a shop with a good exhaust fan to evacuate the fumes.
you also need a controlled environment {heat} for the product to work correctly.
Follow the mixing ratio's and closely measure each component and again read the label for each product as they can be a different ratio. It is also a good idea to get the production or "P" sheet for each product if possible since most of the instructions on the labels are to small to read.
Most urethane paints and primers will stick to EVERYTHING so unless you want to clean over spray off everything in you shop or garage cover everything or build a spray booth even if it is a temporary one.
once you think your ready to give it a try buy the product from a near by paint supply shop.. IF they will sell you the product ask for their help. A lot of the new water base paints they will not sell to the general public. I am not sure if this is state laws or company policy?
the environment your spraying in, preparation habits, film build, dry and cure time and many other things make for success or failure. This is only the tip of the ice berg when doing body and paint work. it truly takes years to understand and be proficient when doing the job.
Start with small projects and go from there.
good luck
 
Hey all, Propwash, my name is Randy.
 
All I can say is I would be glad to help. any of you folks can message me.
My brother and myself have a body shop. in biz since the 70s.

asking a group of bodymen how to prep and paint and what products to use is like asking a
group of cooks how to make chili. LOL
 
Too many cooks in the kitchen! Thanks, I will keep you guys in mind! Propwash... that whole ASLBOW thing started in the 90's when I used to play pool on line in a league, everyone would always ask ASL? Age , sex, location. I got ASL elbow from typing the answer so often, like tennis elbow. Sooo...ASL elbow became ASLBOW. I know, goofy. Say it out loud. ASL BOW.
 
Too many cooks in the kitchen! Thanks, I will keep you guys in mind! Propwash... that whole ASLBOW thing started in the 90's when I used to play pool on line in a league, everyone would always ask ASL? Age , sex, location. I got ASL elbow from typing the answer so often, like tennis elbow. Sooo...ASL elbow became ASLBOW. I know, goofy. Say it out loud. ASL BOW.

And all this time, my mind was reading, 'asblow'...
 
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