Do I need a Metering Valve?

[71SandbugCharger]

‘71 Charger with 4 drums converting to disc in front, drums in back.

Do I need a metering valve as pictured in the service guide?

I got:

• A 70-71 Mopar E B body Disc Drum Brake Distribution Brass Block Proportion Valve
• An Adjustable Proportioning Vale for the rear.
• A bendix style dual diaphragm booster
• A new master slave cylinder

thanks!

 

[MoparLeo]

You could get by without it generally. It was a hydraulic (crude abs type) valve to shutoff brake fluid flow at high brake pressures to help prevent lockup on icy road surfaces. Did it work ?

 

[beanhead]

Your factory diagram shows the smaller metering valve being used to distribute to each front brake(2 outlets)...so if that new block you have has 3 outlet ports(one for rear and two for front R and L) then no you don't need the factory-style one and you can put your adjustable proportioning valve in the rear line.
In other words you still need the two MC outlets to feed three lines...

 

[R/T Boy 67]

Just use the block that is in the car now, and plumb the adjustable prop. valve into the rear line.

 

[bc3j]

FWIW I’ve had both with and without a metering valve. W/O the metering valve I had nose dive under braking. With the metering valve the car stops without any dive. Actual stopping distance was the same. Only difference was the nose dive. Without the excessive weight shifting to the front I’ve never locked the rear brakes under extreme braking.