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I wonder if the A156 kit is the same as the A156-1 kit, less the booster?
I just got the same kit too. Manual drum to power disk. Let me know any problems you run into, or tricks you learn along the way, and I will too. I'm hoping to tackle it little by little starting tomorrow. Need to have the car ready to cruise up to the Adirondack Nationals in Lake George on Sept 6th! Thanks
That's what you already have, another CPP booster..
Reach over and gently touch your Brothers leg when he isn't looking. He might get freaked out a bit. Laugh at him and keep working. I have done this just to be annoying and it usually ends up with us both laughing. (I am not a homosexual)
I thought my comments might get some strange responses. I am surprised to see nothing yet!
Nothing yet cause you scared everyone away....
I appreciate that info. I've got one of those aftermarket boosters (installed by PO) and have always doubted it's effectiveness, plus, it takes up way too much room under the hood. It'll be coming off for a Rite Stuff master cylinder. Did you need a proportioning valve?
For front disc/rear drum a prop valve is recommended. I plumbed mine in with just 2 pre-made lines from Autozone and attached it in a pre-existing hole on the fender. Put it high up for ease of adjusting it. I wasn't concerned that it didn't look original. Got the master and prop valve from Summit.
Thank you NJRR!
Say njrr did you remove the distribution block in order to put that adjustable prop valve in right after the master cylinder or does that not matter I was told that it should go in after the distribution block on the rear lines
No, I kept the factory distribution block. I disconnected the line that goes to the rear from the distribution block, then connected that port to the line in on the prop valve. The line out of the prop valve I connected to the original line going to the rear with a union. All I needed were the two lines, the prop valve and a union. I used long lines so I could keep the prop valve high up in the engine compartment to make adjusting easy and used an existing hole to mount the prop valve.
Well I just put a proportioning valve right in the line coming off the master cylinder for the rear brakes in your opinion was that wrong
I'm in now 2.5 years with a SSBC front disk to power kit. I've futzed endlessly trying to determine why I lose the pedal when every check I've made says the booster is fine. When this happens it doesn't engage the brakes, I still have a very low remaining pedal to apply brakes. I have to put my foot behind the pedal raise it up, pump a couple times and it's fine...then it eventually sinks back down. Installed a vacuum reserve tank as motor has a mild cam and that was a waste of time. I have ample vacuum (I installed a vac gauge in my console often around 15-17 in). I've tried a slew of other things and no solution. SSBC, when I actually could talk to them were friggin clueless and didn't give a rip anyway. Heard a rumor they're out of biz. Might explain the later crickets if this is true. So next is removing the MC for bench bleed, replacing rear block, and pressure check the lines. Also replace the rear rubber line even though it was replaced with install. Rear brakes have ample life yet; around 50% but the drums are maxed out so reckon on getting new drums. One adjuster is not working right, can't get it aligned fully to star so total removal to tackle this. To the point thinking this was just a shit-kit. The posts on the BS booster here seems verrrry concerning...
I think I have this type of booster. It was from Leed Brakes as part of a conversion kit from PST. I've had no problems with it all, been on the car for over a year now.
Boost looks identical to mine; somehow my MC though is for 4-disk brake set up but from what I've found shouldn't be an issue with sinking pedal. So while I intruded on this post, whining about my hassles, sorry. Ok, this is closer to posts... How can it be when: the boost holds vac, and the pedal will act as it's supposed to upon start, along with doing three recommended vac tests with gauge and all show exactly as they should for a 'good' booster? If you want more info as to these recommended tests can post.
I'm sure some of those MPB Chinese boosters work... But many don't... Funny thing, through the years I've installed hundreds of Bendix/Midland Ross/Delco Moriane Boosters.... Can't think of a single one that didn't work, yeah some fail after years of service, but they can be rebuilt... The MPC units I've installed more bad ones than good ones.... What do you want on your car?
It's okay, I was just wondering if it's okay to use the proportioning valve coming off the rear line from the master cylinder or if it has to come after the distribution block on the rear brake line or if it matters
On mine I removed the factory distribution block and replaced with a tee and ran a line from the master to the proportioning valve to the rears. I’m happy with the SSBC kit.
From what I've read in the forum and elsewhere is that the prop valve should be installed AFTER the distribution block. That's what I did. I'm also using an SSBC kit, but I have manual brakes and I installed a Right Stuff 15/16" bore disc/drum master cylinder ( from Summit). Brakes work fine.
Say could you send a pic of your set up?