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Doing a front disc swap, what else should I do?

lebshiff21

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Getting ready to do a swap to power discs, while I have the wheels off, etc. what else would be worth doing? It’s the SSBC kit so the spindles stay. This is on a ‘65 Coronet with mostly original front end parts. My mechanically inclined brother (15 years as a mechanic) will be assisting, but we’d likely only have a weekend together to work.
 
Ball joints, tie rods, control arm bushings? You'll have to do an alignment if you change those.
 
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Not 100% sure if mounting the booster will be direct to the firewall or if you need an adaptor plate. Also, you might need a different brake pedal push rod.
Kit says it’s specifically for non power cars, so I’m hoping the bracket/plate is correct.
 
I want a show of hands... How many here have used that brake booster with good results? I've worked on probably a dozen cars with that booster..

Most have marginal brakes but they are living with it... A couple come to me complaining about how poorly the brakes work...

I've swapped three of those boosters on the same car & none of them worked, on one hand I start seriously questioning my diagnosis, especially when the CPP brake rep claims they've never had anyone complain about the booster....

But just about that time I wind up talking to a buddy who runs a very busy vintage auto repair shop that mostly works on GM stuff & he tells me he's swapped out upwards of thirty of those boosters & now refuses to work on them, he either retrofits a hydra boost system or installs a OE style booster...

I've started swapping in OE style boosters & have had very good results...

The rest of the system probably works fine but if after installing the system the pedal seems to take to much effort try this...

Jump in the car, engine off.. Pump there brake pedal three or four times, it should feel rock hard...

Now while keeping you foot on the brake pedal start the engine... The pedal should fall about 1-1.5" if it doesn't your booster doesn't work..

Try that on any power brake equipped vehicle that is pre ABS & you should feel the pedal drop...
 
I installed an SSBC front disc kit but kept it manual. I used a Right Stuff 15/16" bore disc/drum master cylinder. Car stops great and the manual brake pedal is not that hard to press down on.
 
I installed an SSBC front disc kit but kept it manual. I used a Right Stuff 15/16" bore disc/drum master cylinder. Car stops great and the manual brake pedal is not that hard to press down on.

That is absolutely a viable option, but when you get the power brake setup two things happen, you get a bigger bore M/C & a linkage which changes the effective pedal lever ratio... Both contribute to a higher pedal effort..
 
Its also a great time to inspect for corrosion inside your wheel wells and touch up undercoating. Brush on so-sure corrosion preventative compound to any bare metal hardware, and paint calipers and spindles with good quality enamel like PJ1 or POR-15. Take the time now, and your new components will look new forever.
 
Not that familiar with the specifics of a 65 Coronet, how much space do you have for a booster? According to the SSBC link your 65 Coronet uses the same SSBC booster that a 72 Coronet uses... Obviously not the same OE part(Since OE was a single reservoir master) but the same aftermarket part.... Which would make me think you could use a 72 Coronet OE booster & M/C from a Disc brake application.... Rock Auto shows two available...
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=258443&cc=1498072&jsn=8
About $120 including core charge... Using that booster you need about 12" of room and you'll need the bell crank linkage like all Mopar power brake applications use... Someone who knows 65 vintage Mopar's better can probably confirm if this would work.. I'm guessing/betting it would & if I had a car to look at I would have a much better idea of whether I'm correct or talking out my butt....
 
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