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I wonder if the A156 kit is the same as the A156-1 kit, less the booster?Complete right down to the cotter pins.I stayed Emanuel
I wonder if the A156 kit is the same as the A156-1 kit, less the booster?Complete right down to the cotter pins.I stayed Emanuel
I thought my comments might get some strange responses. I am surprised to see nothing yet!
I appreciate that info. I've got one of those aftermarket boosters (installed by PO) and have always doubted it's effectiveness, plus, it takes up way too much room under the hood. It'll be coming off for a Rite Stuff master cylinder. Did you need a proportioning valve?I installed an SSBC front disc kit but kept it manual. I used a Right Stuff 15/16" bore disc/drum master cylinder. Car stops great and the manual brake pedal is not that hard to press down on.
For front disc/rear drum a prop valve is recommended. I plumbed mine in with just 2 pre-made lines from Autozone and attached it in a pre-existing hole on the fender. Put it high up for ease of adjusting it. I wasn't concerned that it didn't look original. Got the master and prop valve from Summit.I appreciate that info. I've got one of those aftermarket boosters (installed by PO) and have always doubted it's effectiveness, plus, it takes up way too much room under the hood. It'll be coming off for a Rite Stuff master cylinder. Did you need a proportioning valve?
Say njrr did you remove the distribution block in order to put that adjustable prop valve in right after the master cylinder or does that not matter I was told that it should go in after the distribution block on the rear linesFor front disc/rear drum a prop valve is recommended. I plumbed mine in with just 2 pre-made lines from Autozone and attached it in a pre-existing hole on the fender. Put it high up for ease of adjusting it. I wasn't concerned that it didn't look original. Got the master and prop valve from Summit.
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No, I kept the factory distribution block. I disconnected the line that goes to the rear from the distribution block, then connected that port to the line in on the prop valve. The line out of the prop valve I connected to the original line going to the rear with a union. All I needed were the two lines, the prop valve and a union. I used long lines so I could keep the prop valve high up in the engine compartment to make adjusting easy and used an existing hole to mount the prop valve.Say njrr did you remove the distribution block in order to put that adjustable prop valve in right after the master cylinder or does that not matter I was told that it should go in after the distribution block on the rear lines
Well I just put a proportioning valve right in the line coming off the master cylinder for the rear brakes in your opinion was that wrongNo, I kept the factory distribution block. I disconnected the line that goes to the rear from the distribution block, then connected that port to the line in on the prop valve. The line out of the prop valve I connected to the original line going to the rear with a union. All I needed were the two lines, the prop valve and a union. I used long lines so I could keep the prop valve high up in the engine compartment to make adjusting easy and used an existing hole to mount the prop valve.
I think I have this type of booster. It was from Leed Brakes as part of a conversion kit from PST. I've had no problems with it all, been on the car for over a year now.I want a show of hands... How many here have used that brake booster with good results?
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It's okay, I was just wondering if it's okay to use the proportioning valve coming off the rear line from the master cylinder or if it has to come after the distribution block on the rear brake line or if it mattersBoost looks identical to mine; somehow my MC though is for 4-disk brake set up but from what I've found shouldn't be an issue with sinking pedal. So while I intruded on this post, whining about my hassles, sorry. Ok, this is closer to posts...
How can it be when: the boost holds vac, and the pedal will act as it's supposed to upon start, along with doing three recommended vac tests with gauge and all show exactly as they should for a 'good' booster? If you want more info as to these recommended tests can post.
From what I've read in the forum and elsewhere is that the prop valve should be installed AFTER the distribution block. That's what I did. I'm also using an SSBC kit, but I have manual brakes and I installed a Right Stuff 15/16" bore disc/drum master cylinder ( from Summit). Brakes work fine.It's okay, I was just wondering if it's okay to use the proportioning valve coming off the rear line from the master cylinder or if it has to come after the distribution block on the rear brake line or if it matters
Say could you send a pic of your set up?On mine I removed the factory distribution block and replaced with a tee and ran a line from the master to the proportioning valve to the rears. I’m happy with the SSBC kit.