Drip Rail Mouldings popping off

[Dibbons]

Today attempting to replace drip rail (stainless steel?) moulding on the '72 SSP project car. It snapped on a little too easily, which means it also pops off again too easily. I'm not sure, but it appears someone in the past had put some kind of hard drying adhesive in the channel in certain areas, possibly to hold the moulding in place.

If that is the case, it should be a lot of fun trying to chip that stuff out without damaging the surrounding paint. Not sure what the problem is, not sure how to proceed. Foolishly expected for it to pop into place and stay there.

The straight sections seem to be clear of this previous goop. Both ends and the curve at the top of the windshield seem to have the most "filler". But like I said, I don't know what this drip rail section should look like, I don't have anything to compare it to, it could have left the factory like that for all I know. Thank you.

 

[kiwigtx]

Did your car originally have a vinyl top? If YES, then you have the wrong mouldings for the drip rail - there are two types - with & without Vinyl.

 

[Dibbons]

I believe it originally had a canopy vinyl roof. I have two sets of mouldings, one set is a little more beat up than the other. I believe they are shaped exactly the same, but I will double check. Edit: The two sets look the same to me, the set that is more bent up has some blue paint on it, which is the same repaint color as when I purchased the vehicle a year ago.

Now the question is, since I permanently removed the canopy vinyl roof, then I have the wrong mouldings? And how would the mouldings be different? Or if they are different, is that for the full vinyl roof or both the full and canopy style?

 

[747mopar]

That's common since removing them often stretches the opening, you just need to carefully tightend the gap back up. I installed mine then went around and crimped the trim for a tight fit. Adding a little butyl ribbon tape in spots helps prevent it from moving and rattling as well.

I noticed you don't have any seam sealer in those gutters.... they should have a full bead of sealer over that seam before paint to seal the joints.

- - - Updated - - -

Did your car originally have a vinyl top? If YES, then you have the wrong mouldings for the drip rail - there are two types - with & without Vinyl.

Hmmmm, maybe that's why mine were loose?? Learn something new everyday.

 

[Dibbons]

Well then, do the gutters look that way because I am missing the seam sealer in long stretches, or because someone put adhesive in only certain places? It is awfully bumpy, and I was wondering what was going on. If I need a layer of seam sealer, can I still clean that out and put some on, or is it too late?

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

The gutter requires a full seal the full length, was there originally. Agree, should have been done before paint, but still needs to be done. I would mask off the roof and dig out the remaining old sealer, replace sealer completely then repaint the gutters. Decent non vinyl top drip rail moldings are very hard to come by these days. I’ve used vinyl top versions on bare drip rails by applying duct or cloth tape to the gutter lip.

 

[747mopar]

Well then, do the gutters look that way because I am missing the seam sealer in long stretches, or because someone put adhesive in only certain places? It is awfully bumpy, and I was wondering what was going on. If I need a layer of seam sealer, can I still clean that out and put some on, or is it too late?

Yeap, the seam sealer should completely cover the whole entire bottom of that gutter covering the pinch weld area. That stinks that it's painted already but not sealing it will result in rust build up between the layers. Good luck