E-Brake Cable Brackets with TTI Max Wedge Exhaust

[VANDAN]

We're moving on my '63, and finishing the metal repair, before heading to the body & paint phase. I'm wondering if the E-Brake cable brackets will work/fit in the standard position when using a TTI 3" Max Wedge exhaust ? I also remember reading someone used an extra set of brackets, or cable fix points, in front of the stock brackets,

to clear the system ? Any, and all input appreciated on this topic. Thanks for your feedback

 

[RSZ28]

I see that you have subframe connectors. Will the e-brake cable need to go through the connectors, or will they fit over them? Also, did you weld the connectors on with the car on the ground with doors, engine, rearend, etc or stripped on the rotisserie? Thanks

 

[PRND21]

I’ve got TTI 2 1/2” exhaust with the X pipe on my 65. The X interferes with where the cable comes out of the trans crossmember. I had to make a bracket to direct the cable down below the X, also a couple of small brackets to hold the cables off of the intermediate pipes. Not pretty but it works. Probably a better fix would be to relocate the main cable to below the trans crossmember. I’m thinking the H pipe might give you more room for the main cable.

 

[VANDAN]

I see that you have subframe connectors. Will the e-brake cable need to go through the connectors, or will they fit over them? Also, did you weld the connectors on with the car on the ground with doors, engine, rearend, etc or stripped on the rotisserie? Thanks

The cables run between the frame ties, so that shouldn't be an issue. I believe the re-routing needs to be above the crossover pipes. I have been looking this AM for pics on this, and have found a few that show the extra brackets in place above the pipes. Anyone familiar with these, or were they "in shop" fabs that need to be fitted ? As far as my car, a new floor pan was put in on the ground, stripped, with no doors & drivetrain out. Frame ties were put in while on rotisserie, which makes it a lot easier. The car was very solid frame wise, and with the new floor welded in, so not worried about flex for the fit & finish...

 

[Auto Teach]

The cables run between the frame ties, so that shouldn't be an issue. I believe the re-routing needs to be above the crossover pipes. I have been looking this AM for pics on this, and have found a few that show the extra brackets in place above the pipes. Anyone familiar with these, or were they "in shop" fabs that need to be fitted ? As far as my car, a new floor pan was put in on the ground, stripped, with no doors & drivetrain out. Frame ties were put in while on rotisserie, which makes it a lot easier. The car was very solid frame wise, and with the new floor welded in, so not worried about flex for the fit & finish...

Here you go

 

[64 Post]

Brian Brady @ Crossram Connections should still have the brackets. Joe Suchy would be my next call.

Maxies came from the factory with 2 brackets per side, welded or bolted depending on make.

 

[dartforforty]

The cables run between the frame ties, so that shouldn't be an issue. I believe the re-routing needs to be above the crossover pipes. I have been looking this AM for pics on this, and have found a few that show the extra brackets in place above the pipes. Anyone familiar with these, or were they "in shop" fabs that need to be fitted ? As far as my car, a new floor pan was put in on the ground, stripped, with no doors & drivetrain out. Frame ties were put in while on rotisserie, which makes it a lot easier. The car was very solid frame wise, and with the new floor welded in, so not worried about flex for the fit & finish...

You will need the extra long brackets as the cables get heated up at the cross, I have the 3" TTI max wedge exhaust on my 65 Coronet and the cables are toast with out bracket extensions. Unless you braced the body on solid ground before putting on the rotisserie it will flex.
The welder/body man who installed my US Car Tool frame connectors on my 64 Belvedere tacked them to the floor pan with the car on a drive on lift and did the final welding on a frame lift. No door gap problem at all.

 

[Fran Blacker]

The cables run between the frame ties, so that shouldn't be an issue. I believe the re-routing needs to be above the crossover pipes. I have been looking this AM for pics on this, and have found a few that show the extra brackets in place above the pipes. Anyone familiar with these, or were they "in shop" fabs that need to be fitted ? As far as my car, a new floor pan was put in on the ground, stripped, with no doors & drivetrain out. Frame ties were put in while on rotisserie, which makes it a lot easier. The car was very solid frame wise, and with the new floor welded in, so not worried about flex for the fit & finish...

Another option switch to 66 and newer e brake. Looks like you have rear e brake bracket on frame rail. I put a bracket on trans cross member and ran a rod to the cable that connects to 2 rear cables. Could use later front cable to clean it up.

up.

 

[Fran Blacker]

The rear bracket was turned 90* when I took pic's.

 

[EARLY B]

The rear bracket was turned 90* when I took pic's.

VANDAN will the exhaust pipes clear the frame connectors?

 

[Polara426]

I would be more concerned about the frame connectors hitting the cut out pipes we had to do major surgery on my sons 62 Plymouth with frame connectors with the max wedge exhaust from accurate.

 

[Fran Blacker]

I would be more concerned about the frame connectors hitting the cut out pipes we had to do major surgery on my sons 62 Plymouth with frame connectors with the max wedge exhaust from accurate.

Agree remember mentioned in a thread? Look at Post #5 by teach, dumps are in middle of connectors. 3" h or x pipe no problem . Ad electric cutouts, vandan may not like the idea, his car. Picture 3" tti h-pipe on 65 Dodge Coronet, crossover pipe 2" wider, no tti headers.

 

[VANDAN]

VANDAN will the exhaust pipes clear the frame connectors?

We haven't done a mock up on it yet, but it should be close. Will probably have to shorten, and/or angle the cut-outs so they will have a clean exit for the exhaust flow, and not scorch the frame either. The frame ties were also moved out from there intended position, to allow some extra room for the exhaust. Anxious to see myself when we get that far...

 

[VANDAN]

With all the input & help I received today on this, I was able to come up with the fix for this part of the build. I did find the brackets at Kramers, and they will be on there way soon. Thanks to all who "threw in" to solve this, and a special Thanks to Auto Teach for those pics, as they laid it out plainly. Cheers &