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Edelbrock Performer Heads B Block

non-tapered rocker shims and over-tightened hold down bolts can split the rocker stands. My Early production Victor MW head stands cracked at the base of the stand because the hold down bolts (and heli-coils) were only in the stands and did not extend deeper into the head. When I got the newer Victor MW heads (The Hughes CNC ported ones) They had made some changes to the heads. The castings are slightly different and they had longer, I think 1" long heli-coils for the stand bolts. My original heads, I think the heli-coils may have been 1/2" long?
Photo of the original broken rocker stand..
edelbrokeVictor.JPG
 
That's great info 451, thanks. I've got a set of the later victor mw heads, eventually gonna end up on a 520" roller motor. (Would certainly have bought 270 tf, but there was no such thing at the time)
Funny thing is, I made some stands for my 286 iron max heads, out of 6061. They were gorgeous. Wish I knew what I did with them!
 
The photo is the early production Victor MW head when they first come out for sale.
I think the later castings are better, and with some design changes (added material on top of the ports, and longer heli-coils)
 
Stronger, probably. Heard the later heads don't flow as well as the early heads. And damn, the rockers are expensive!!!
 
451, you recommended the t&d paired, if you were to do it again. What did you use? (I actually like the scorpions, but damn, $1200?) Leaning toward the hughes.
Edit: cant find the victor specific rockers that scorpion (used to?) make , at summit or scorpions own site. Guess ill have to look at the t&d.
 
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451, you recommended the t&d paired, if you were to do it again. What did you use? (I actually like the scorpions, but damn, $1200?) Leaning toward the hughes.
Edit: cant find the victor specific rockers that scorpion (used to?) make , at summit or scorpions own site. Guess ill have to look at the t&d.

When I got the Max Wedge Victors, T&D was the only company making rocker arms specifically for those heads with the 0.725" Intake rocker offset.
Regular Victor heads use 0.650" offset. The Indy rockers were about the only other option, with 0.800" offset.
The RPM heads I think use a stock rocker offset of 0.250"
Back when I bought the rocker arms, I think they cost around $900 and that is the single shaft system. I did not know they started making a paired shaft system until maybe 2-years ago. I haven't asked the cost on those, likely close to $2,000? But if you were wanting to run 0.800"+ lifts, the paired shaft units can be ordered with ratios up to 1.8:1. Not to mention installing the single shaft system on an engine with high lift and spring pressures is not that easy, you need to carefully work the hold downs so you don't bend the shaft. With the paired shaft system, just set the cylinder to TDC and install the rocker pair. It is also a stronger and more stable system.
I will say T&D makes a nice product. With all the issues I had, the rocker arms never broke. They did get some pushrod damage when the I snapped the two rocker stands off the heads (the center stand on both sides of the engine), and breaking a rocker stand hold-down stud (it was a non ARP stud labeled a grade 8, but i doubt it was even grade 5?), resulted in snapping off the end of the rocker shaft and pushing the rocker arm adjusters through the valve covers.
Called T&D and they sold me a new shaft at a reasonable cost.

With my current setup, I could use a can with a milider opening exhaust lobe, and maybe run a lower ratio exhaust rocker arm to reduce the rocker arm forces when opening the exhaust valves?
 
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My question is, did Hughes set the heads up for you? Are shims installed (by them or you) under the shafts to 'correct' rocker geometry? Were there small, very thin half-circle shaped pieces of steel under the shaft in any location? I ask because, the only time I've ever seen cracked pedestals was from attempting to correct the shaft location using standard shims..

Sorry guys, been a busy week. Hughes set the heads up minus the valve train. I added aluminum shims (.020” if memory serves) to get the geometry right. No steel in there though.
 
Just for kicks I dug out the instruction sheets from my RPM heads (holy crap I still have the paperwork from 2007?!) and they specify 25 lb/ft for the shaft mounts, that's not much(I'm sure you knew that Dwayne, I just put it out there for general knowledge..)
Yep, I set them up according to Edelbrocks spec, not ARPs.
 
Warren, can you post any clear pictures?

Here’s a few. Hughes asked me to ship the heads back for them to repair. It’ll be on my dime but they’re confident it won’t be a problem again after they’re done with em. Should be a few weeks til they’re back to me but I really hope the rocker geometry doesn’t change. I’d rather not have to go back through all that again.
 
That's what I thought....bummer. At least Hughes is gonna fix them for you. As well they should, since regular shims like that are their answer to geometry issues. If they can't put the stands in a location that doesn't require shimming, call Mike Beachel at B3 Racing Engines. He machines custom relocation spacers that work great and don't stress the stands, and at a very reasonable price.
Usually---not always--- using regular shims doesn't really fix the geometry anyway as it only moves the shaft in one direction. The idea is to have the narrowest possible rocker swipe across the valve, not so much just having it centered. Good luck on the next one!
 
They make the diameter larger than pedestal seat diameter. Splits at the hole . Like an *** crack.
 
Per an old post on a bodies, dvorak and Hughes sell tapered shims (paper thin on the ends, thick in the middle to raise the shaft).
If you need the shaft moved in or out, you need parts from B3 racing engines.
 
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raising the shaft just half way takes care of rocker-retainer interference
he needs to do the "stripe test"
he can get it down to .030 with the proper shaft location
do before ordering pushrods
 
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