Electric fuel pump suggestions.

[747mopar]

I'm pretty sure I've done a thread like this but couldn't find it so here we go again.

With several years of driving my Charger under my belt I'm down to only one small pet peeve.. the dreaded vapor lock. Before anyone suggest insulating the carb, lines, etc it's all been done and cured almost everything. The only remaining issue is occasionally boiling the fuel in the lines in stopped traffic, once traffic gets moving it will cough and blubber until the vapor is purged then it's flawless again.

This winter I'm finally going to resolve this issue by installing an electric pump with a return style regulator but have little experience with electric pumps.. what brands to avoid? I also have an extra tank (brand new) so mounting one in the tank is definitely an option as well.

I can't see how this won't cure it..

Fuel line will be relocated to the firewall instead of running beside the headers.

A return line will keep fuel in motion so no heat absorption.

If the fuel ever evaporates from the bowls (don't have that problem but) at least I can prime it without cranking the engine.


Thoughts??

 

[Aron Gleason]

I would go with either the holley black pump or a Aeromotive fuel pump. For a return regulator go with Aeromotive.

 

[toolmanmike]

These work well. Hook it up to a momentary switch, prime the carb, and bingo!
Holley has a nice one as well. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-12-427
The cylindrical one with the filter attached is a Airtex I believe. (E8012S)

 

[66Satellite47]

Mallory 140 has been my choice. A gerotor style pump. I have used it with both a deadhead system and a return style regulator. Many years ago, I used two Holley Blue 110's. The vane style would sometimes get sticky vanes and lose volume. I sure didn't realize how much the Mallory cost had increased.

 

[dsd1967]

I chased the same problem on a 67 D100 with a 400. The mechanical fuel pump is inches away from the cast iron manifold and if I shut down the truck for 5-10 minutes, I could not get it to start for the next hour. My first attempt was putting a fuel filter in the system with one inlet and two outlets (one for a return), and putting a 1/4" return line back to the tank. It did not resolve the problem because of the manifold closeness to the mechanical fuel pump still caused vapor lock in the fuel pump. I installed an electric fuel pump sourced from Autozone upstream of the mechanical fuel pump and the problem disappeared. I have the electric fuel pump keyed to the ignition switch and it runs all the time that the vehicle is running.

 

[toolmanmike]

A fuel return system will help prevent vpor lock when the engine runs but it won't help the fuel evaporation/hot soak issue when the engine is shut off. That's where a priming pump works best. It just fills the carb back up so it will restart easily. For that purpose, you will need a pump that will allow fuel to pass through when the pump is not running. It didn't sound like the OP has any fuel issues other than the hard restart when hot or after setting a few days and the carb is near empty.

 

[MelroseMopar]

I went with the complete system from tanks inc. and it has worked flawlessly for me up to this point, I am running an EFI set up but premise is that same I have an external regulator up by the motor with a return line and intank pump. I would recommend getting a fuel injection tank it has additional baffles to hold fuel around the fuel pick up during acceleration.

https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/...ct_id=484/category_id=68/mode=prod/prd484.htm

 

[747mopar]

Probably should also mention the car occasionally goes on long trips so reliability is of the upmost importance.

 

[747mopar]

A fuel return system will help prevent vpor lock when the engine runs but it won't help the fuel evaporation/hot soak issue when the engine is shut off. That's where a priming pump works best. It just fills the carb back up so it will restart easily. For that purpose, you will need a pump that will allow fuel to pass through when the pump is not running. It didn't sound like the OP has any fuel issues other than the hard restart when hot or after setting a few days and the carb is near empty.

I don't have any problems in that area since putting a phenolic spacer under the carb and buying the new QF. But... being electric why would you need the priming pump, flip the ignition to run for a few seconds before starting it will do the same thing?

 

[747mopar]

I went with the complete system from tanks inc. and it has worked flawlessly for me up to this point, I am running an EFI set up but premise is that same I have an external regulator up by the motor with a return line and intank pump. I would recommend getting a fuel injection tank it has additional baffles to hold fuel around the fuel pick up during acceleration.

https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/...ct_id=484/category_id=68/mode=prod/prd484.htm

View attachment 1201934 View attachment 1201935 View attachment 1201936

Looks good, I'll have to mount mine elsewhere since my A/C lines run through there. I'm back and forth on putting it in the tank, I know that's the best option but in a pinch it sure would be easier getting the car back on the road if it was accessible.

 

[MelroseMopar]

Looks good, I'll have to mount mine elsewhere since my A/C lines run through there. I'm back and forth on putting it in the tank, I know that's the best option but in a pinch it sure would be easier getting the car back on the road if it was accessible.

As i mentioned I have not had any problems but FWIW the research that I did prior to going with the intank pump suggested that in tank pumps were more reliable because of the added benefit of fuel cooling the pump. And its quieter.. Good luck on your decision!.

 

[moparedtn]

I don't have any problems in that area since putting a phenolic spacer under the carb and buying the new QF. But... being electric why would you need the priming pump, flip the ignition to run for a few seconds before starting it will do the same thing?

I believe the suggestion is to have the priming pump in lieu of (instead of) a "main" electric pump,
keeping the existing mechanical one for all the usual fuel chores.
The priming pump would be installed on its' own switch and just run for a few seconds prior to cold
starting the car, in order to refill the carb bowls where the gas has evaporated.

My own experience with spacers, btw, is that it helped some with performance but did little to quell the
Edelbrock losing its' fuel between weekly starts. The gas we get now evaporates pretty much anywhere,
with or without the aid of heat methinks.
Sounds like an experiment I need to make.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Whatever you go with I would make sure it is readily available Having to sit somewhere and wait on the UPS guy to bring one sucks

 

[toolmanmike]

I don't have any problems in that area since putting a phenolic spacer under the carb and buying the new QF. But... being electric why would you need the priming pump, flip the ignition to run for a few seconds before starting it will do the same thing?

My point was the priming pump doesn't need to run all the time. The mechanical pump will pull fuel through the priming pump when it is shut off. It depends what issues you are having, Long crank time after setting a few days or weeks or hard starting after a hot soak and the priming pump will fix those issues. If you are running out of fuel with a HP build, a electric race pump and regulator is what you need. It runs all the time the ignition is on.

 

[slepr1]

The mechanical pump will pull fuel through the priming pump when it is shut off.

In the spring after winter storage, the carb bowls are bone dry. It seems to take forever to start the engine. I've contemplated going to an electric pump but is this all I need? Does this priming pump get installed before or after the mech pump? Sounds like a good idea.

 

[toolmanmike]

In the spring after winter storage, the carb bowls are bone dry. It seems to take forever to start the engine. I've contemplated going to an electric pump but is this all I need? Does this priming pump get installed before or after the mech pump? Sounds like a good idea.

That is all you need. The pump is a "pusher" pump so it needs to go back by the tank to push the fuel to the carb. You can ground it to the chassis and power it through a momentary pushbutton or toggle switch. Put a inline fuse in the circuit.

 

[747mopar]

I believe the suggestion is to have the priming pump in lieu of (instead of) a "main" electric pump,
keeping the existing mechanical one for all the usual fuel chores.
The priming pump would be installed on its' own switch and just run for a few seconds prior to cold
starting the car, in order to refill the carb bowls where the gas has evaporated.

My own experience with spacers, btw, is that it helped some with performance but did little to quell the
Edelbrock losing its' fuel between weekly starts. The gas we get now evaporates pretty much anywhere,
with or without the aid of heat methinks.
Sounds like an experiment I need to make.

My point was the priming pump doesn't need to run all the time. The mechanical pump will pull fuel through the priming pump when it is shut off. It depends what issues you are having, Long crank time after setting a few days or weeks or hard starting after a hot soak and the priming pump will fix those issues. If you are running out of fuel with a HP build, a electric race pump and regulator is what you need. It runs all the time the ignition is on.

I understand the idea and it sounds like a great idea if that's the problem your having. As stated in the OP the only issue I'm having right now is the occasional blubbering after sitting in stalled traffic. In my little brain the only explanation is the fuel is boiling right beside the headers (it's insulated) because it will take off no problem from a long light then blubber an eighth of a mile down the road then snap right out of it. I have zero issues with fuel boiling out of the carb, it starts right up rather it's been 15 minutes or 2 months.

As far as spacers go... It definitely helped in my situation but then again I paid a few extra bucks on the Black Diamond option when ordering the carb, supposedly helps as well??? At any rate I don't loose fuel in the carb.

I could likely resolve my issue while keeping the mechanical pump by adding a regulator and return line but feel the added benefit of relocating the lines away from the exhaust would be beneficial.

 

[747mopar]

As i mentioned I have not had any problems but FWIW the research that I did prior to going with the intank pump suggested that in tank pumps were more reliable because of the added benefit of fuel cooling the pump. And its quieter.. Good luck on your decision!.

I 100% agree that in the tank is the best spot however I've lost my faith in anything aftermarket regarding quality. If I was mounting an OEM pump in there then yes but today's parts have proven to be hit and miss. I'm on my 3rd mechanical pump in 15,000 miles!! First one.. a Holley eventually got to where it couldn't provide enough fuel at high rpm's, second one.. a Carter dropped the pivot pin for the pump arm and now I've got an Eddy on it because it was the only one I could find that said American made.

 

[toolmanmike]

I 100% agree that in the tank is the best spot however I've lost my faith in anything aftermarket regarding quality. If I was mounting an OEM pump in there then yes but today's parts have proven to be hit and miss. I'm on my 3rd mechanical pump in 15,000 miles!! First one.. a Holley eventually got to where it couldn't provide enough fuel at high rpm's, second one.. a Carter dropped the pivot pin for the pump arm and now I've got an Eddy on it because it was the only one I could find that said American made.

First off are you running a big block (I am sure you are) and have you ever changed the fuel pump pushrod? They wear and won't push the pump lever far enough to pump enough fuel. Sorry I got your thread off track.

 

[747mopar]

First off are you running a big block (I am sure you are) and have you ever changed the fuel pump pushrod? They wear and won't push the pump lever far enough to pump enough fuel. Sorry I got your thread off track.

Yes, it's a stroked 400 (456 is what the math comes out to).

I remember that being brought up and I'm pretty sure I measured it.. definitely looked it over for signs of wear. The first pump lasted about 3 years with no trouble then started stumbling if I really got on it, I taped a fuel pressure gauge to the windshield and sure enough it would hold pressure until I had my foot in it then drop to zero. Second pump fixed the pressure drop but it physically failed within a year. After having it towed home I pulled the pump and the pump lever was hanging loose. The Eddy is still working perfectly with zero pump related fuel delivery issues. The car will perform flawlessly in low or average temperatures but as soon as you sit in hot traffic you get that blubber but once it clears it's flawless until the next time you're stopped in traffic.