Electrical problems....69 Coronet with a/c

[Cloned]

I am planning a 3 hour drive to the Adirondack Nationals the Thursday after Labor day and decided to do some maintence before the long drive. The alternator needed replacing as it came up short on a bench test.Battery tested good. So I replaced the alternator,belts, battery terminal ends, converted to pertronix electronic ignition, oil change, and brake check. I try to start it I have no power to the ignition, lights, anything. I get 12v to the block on the firwall and thats where it ends. Is there a fuse box or fusable link somewhere tucked away under the dash? I didn't see anything resembling either. It's an a/c car so it might be tucked up somewhere behind the ducting. Any advice will be much appreciated. I will search the forums for a wiring diagram.

 

[Cloned]

I am planning a 3 hour drive to the Adirondack Nationals the Thursday after Labor day and decided to do some maintence before the long drive. The alternator needed replacing as it came up short on a bench test.Battery tested good. So I replaced the alternator,belts, battery terminal ends, converted to pertronix electronic ignition, oil change, and brake check. I try to start it I have no power to the ignition, lights, anything. I get 12v to the block on the firwall and thats where it ends. Is there a fuse box or fusable link somewhere tucked away under the dash? I didn't see anything resembling either. It's an a/c car so it might be tucked up somewhere behind the ducting. Any advice will be much appreciated. I will search the forums for a wiring diagram.

Found fuses. All checked good.

 

[moparnation74]

Checked your bulkhead connections....Remove the three harness connectors at the bulkhead put dielectric grease on them. The fusible link on original harness is on the bulkhead engine side...

 

[451Mopar]

The fuseable link connects to the starter/neutral safety relay on the large stud and runs into the the bulkhead connector. Looks like second down from top right side?

 

[Dennis H]

Checked your bulkhead connections....Remove the three harness connectors at the bulkhead put dielectric grease on them. The fusible link on original harness is on the bulkhead engine side...

Gently. Spray with contact cleaner until it runs clear.

 

[Cloned]

Ok. I cleaned all connections, scuffed up with fine sandpaper and scotchbrite pads, dielectric greased them, I have power thru the fusable link into the wiring block. I shorted the 2 studs on the relay for the starter(by accident) and it turned over, key off. I then took off the ignition switch and it tested good. But other than that .....nothing. No power to anything past the fuseble link.

 

[Cloned]

Ok. I cleaned all connections, scuffed up with fine sandpaper and scotchbrite pads, dielectric greased them, I have power thru the fusable link into the wiring block. I shorted the 2 studs on the relay for the starter(by accident) and it turned over, key off. I then took off the ignition switch and it tested good. But other than that .....nothing. No power to anything past the fuseble link.
Any electrical genuises in central CT that can help? If not getting it flatbedded to a shop on Tuesday.

 

[texas69bee]

Bad relay.

 

[451Mopar]

Check for voltage at the amp gauge.

Ok. I cleaned all connections, scuffed up with fine sandpaper and scotchbrite pads, dielectric greased them, I have power thru the fusable link into the wiring block. I shorted the 2 studs on the relay for the starter(by accident) and it turned over, key off. I then took off the ignition switch and it tested good. But other than that .....nothing. No power to anything past the fuseble link.

If you have power through the fusable link, I would check for power at the Amp meter (both sides) next.

 

[Cloned]

Check for voltage at the amp gauge.


If you have power through the fusable link, I would check for power at the Amp meter (both sides) next.

Thanks I will try that tomorrow

 

[beanhead]

Some good advice above. Also look very closely at the bulkhead connector, and make sure the pins inside haven't gotten pushed out of the connector a little bit... In other words make sure that both male and female spades are making a full connection when the harness is plugged in

 

[451Mopar]

My Factory Service manuals are at my friends house, but I think the amp meter connected directly to the terminal with the fuseable link, then the other side of the amp meter split with a wire to the ignition key, and one to the fuse box?

 

[Cloned]

Ok after shoehorning myself under the dash(I'm 6'4 230lbs) I somehow got my hand to the ammeter and jiggled it a little and the dash light came on. So I managed to get a socket on the nut and tightened it a little. I would love to take the dash apart and clean all the connections back there but how the hell does it come apart? I took off all the faceplates, trim, and every screw I saw but the dash pad doesn't move. The car fired right up, saw a little smoke from the VR. Turned it off. I had unhooked the wires from the ceramic block earlier. I thought I read you didn't need it for the conversion to electronic ignition. Plugged it back in and no smoke. But it's only charging 12.2 volts. Back to where I started. Ready to sell it and buy another Chevelle.

 

[Cloned]

I was joking about selling. It looks too nice. I would push it to Lake George.

 

[451Mopar]

Are you trying to remove the entire dash or just the instrument cluster.
You need to remove the windshield to get to the upper (metal) dash bolts.
The instrument cluster can be removed from the dash, but you might have to lower the steering column, and work it around the dash padding.
Caution on the instrument cluster, it grounds to the dash when bolted on (does not have an actual ground wire) and the instrument voltage regulator (IVR) needs the ground to work correctly, or full power will go to the gauges. I recommend adding a ground wire from the instrument panel to the dash or body.

Not sure why the Voltage Regulator would smoke? I would have the alternator checked to make sure it is not shorted. The voltage regulator might need replacement, but check the alternator and wiring for shorts to prevent smoking a new one.
At 12.2 volts, your just seeing battery voltage, no charging.
Normally you use the ballast resistor, but it depends on which electronic ignition system (and ignition coil) you are using?

 

[Cloned]

Are you trying to remove the entire dash or just the instrument cluster.
You need to remove the windshield to get to the upper (metal) dash bolts.
The instrument cluster can be removed from the dash, but you might have to lower the steering column, and work it around the dash padding.
Caution on the instrument cluster, it grounds to the dash when bolted on (does not have an actual ground wire) and the instrument voltage regulator (IVR) needs the ground to work correctly, or full power will go to the gauges. I recommend adding a ground wire from the instrument panel to the dash or body.

Not sure why the Voltage Regulator would smoke? I would have the alternator checked to make sure it is not shorted. The voltage regulator might need replacement, but check the alternator and wiring for shorts to prevent smoking a new one.
At 12.2 volts, your just seeing battery voltage, no charging.
Normally you use the ballast resistor, but it depends on which electronic ignition system (and ignition coil) you are using?

Pertronix with the stock ignition coil. At idle with the lights on it goes pretty close to D on the amp meter. Whether revving the engine or at idle its only 12.2 volts. Amp meter will get closer to center with the lights off. No dimming of the lights whether it's high or low beams. Pretty sure it's going to an auto electric place this week. I need to do heater core next week.

 

[451Mopar]

Post some picture of the heater core rebuild, I hear the A/C boxes are fairly complex?

 

[Rick69]

I am planning a 3 hour drive to the Adirondack Nationals the Thursday after Labor day and decided to do some maintence before the long drive. The alternator needed replacing as it came up short on a bench test.Battery tested good. So I replaced the alternator,belts, battery terminal ends, converted to pertronix electronic ignition, oil change, and brake check. I try to start it I have no power to the ignition, lights, anything. I get 12v to the block on the firwall and thats where it ends. Is there a fuse box or fusable link somewhere tucked away under the dash? I didn't see anything resembling either. It's an a/c car so it might be tucked up somewhere behind the ducting. Any advice will be much appreciated. I will search the forums for a wiring diagram.

I just read this post. Wondering if you ever got it sorted out. I am having a similar charging problem with a '69 Coronet. No AC.