Electronic ignition

[Matt B.]

I need some help! I have been reading as many posts as I can about switching to electronic ignition and I &just keep getting more confused. Right now my car isn’t starting. It cranks over, but no start. It’s a 71 RR with 383 just rebuilt engine. Original engine harness is junk. Ordered a new one from YearOne. It’s an M&H setup for electronic ignition. Has plugs for duel ballast. New MP electronic ignition kit and it came with a 5 pin ecu. Kind of at a loss as to what to do.

 

[Steven Bowers]

Well, my input to you is I went to a Mallory Uni-Lite electronic distributor decades ago and have had no issues….just change rotor, cap and plug wires every so often….I have a 383 HP in my 69 Charger……just make sure you have your engine at top dead center and the rotor on #1 …..that’s a good starting point….also make sure you have SPARK……may have a bad coil….etc……

 

[Matt B.]

Am I supposed to tie the run side of the ballast together?
Thanks Matt B

 

[threewood]

You said it was just rebuilt. Has it been running before this no start issue? If yes or no, can you verify spark to the coil? Getting fuel?

 

[threewood]

I believe the 5 pin ecu needs the dual ballast. 4 pin the single ballast.

 

[Steven Bowers]

I can only tell you what’s on mine for reference….after clipping the plugs together from the distributor you’ll have a ground wire that goes on your block, a negative to negative on coil….one that goes to positive and another one from fire wall that connects to positive….that’s how mine is connected….make sure you have SPARK….also your timing is correct…..and YES it is getting gas….that always helps….lol….

 

[70chall440]

IMO you have too many things going on at the same time, you say it wont start but then go right into a new wiring harness. Did the engine ever run? Was there an engine in the car at some point when you owned it that did start and run?

This is like going to the doctor with sore ankle and asking for knew surgery... Not to be a dick but this is how projects become nightmares, get it in your head that something is wrong and rip into without diagnosing what is actually going on (I have done it many times myself...)

 

[Matt B.]

It was running before on old harness. Using an Accell point distributor. Harness was brittle and spliced into a lot of places. That’s why it was replaced. Original heads were no good, so I put on a set of eddy heads. Distributor wouldn’t fit then. I have checked voltage. 11+ volts everywhere except at coil + and at blue/brown spade of ballast when key is in run position.
Matt B

 

[Matt B.]

I understand what you’re saying 70chall440. Thing is motor ran, but needed rebuild. Harness had seen better days.
Matt B

 

[Don Frelier]

It was running before on old harness. Using an Accell point distributor. Harness was brittle and spliced into a lot of places. That’s why it was replaced. Original heads were no good, so I put on a set of eddy heads. Distributor wouldn’t fit then. I have checked voltage. 11+ volts everywhere except at coil + and at blue/brown spade of ballast when key is in run position.
Matt B

If you don't have voltage on the blue wire you need to go back to the bulkhead.
Perhaps a connector pushed out when you plugged it in.

 

[Matt B.]

I will check that. Do I have to jump the run side of the ballast? When I look at diagrams of duel ballast it looks as if they are?
Matt B

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

It was running before on old harness. Using an Accell point distributor. Harness was brittle and spliced into a lot of places. That’s why it was replaced. Original heads were no good, so I put on a set of eddy heads. Distributor wouldn’t fit then. I have checked voltage. 11+ volts everywhere except at coil + and at blue/brown spade of ballast when key is in run position.
Matt B

Key on, no voltage on the blue (ignition 1) wire at the ballast? Follow it back to the bulkhead connector, check both sides, then at the ignition switch Molex connector at the bottom of the column. There is an open somewhere between the ignition switch and the engine harness.

 

[Don Frelier]

I will check that. Do I have to jump the run side of the ballast? When I look at diagrams of duel ballast it looks as if they are?
Matt B

The harness should be set up with that side connected.
So no.

 

[Matt B.]

I’ll have to believe you Don. Don’t look like they are connected to me.
Matt B

 

[Don Frelier]

I think it's done back in the harness not right at the plug (like they used to be)

 

[Matt B.]

That picture shows 2 blue wires on bottom left plug. Mine has only 1. Am I missing something?
Matt B

 

[Don Frelier]

Sorry bad example I think I added a blue one picked off for the electric choke.
My point is you dont see a jumper right on the plug like they used to be back in the day.

 

[Matt B.]

Gotcha, thanks. I do have to run power to my electric choke yet.
Thanks Matt B

 

[Bee1971]

Run a jumper wire from the positive side of battery to the positive side of coil

Turn the car over and see if it will start first with everything you got going on

Then get back to us

 

[Bee1971]

I understand what you’re saying 70chall440. Thing is motor ran, but needed rebuild. Harness had seen better days.
Matt B

So it hasn’t run since being rebuilt ?

I am confused

Bottom line has the new rebuilt motor been broken in yet with the new camshaft and lifters ?

If no , and now your not getting it to fire cranking it over