Electronic ignition

[Matt B.]

No, the motor not broken in yet.
Matt B

 

[MoparLeo]

I am confused. You say you replaced the engine harness with an M & H harness set up for electronic ignition, right?
And you have a new, complete Chrysler electronic ignition kit ( distributor,cap,rotor,ballast,ecu ) correct so far ?
Directions to install it that came with the kit?
Miss anything?
If everything is there , why the question of how to hook it up ? No directions ? Don't understand them ? ECU doesn't matter if it came with a dual ballast it would have come with a 5 pin if not a 4 pin. They both work. only early models came with 5 pin and then all were changed to 4 pin. Does your harness have 4 wire 2 the ballast or 2 ? What do the directions say. Have a picture of what you are working with ?

 

[Matt B.]

Yes to the m&h harness. The ecu connector is built into the harness. Just double checked the ecu and it’s a 4 pin unit. The harness uses double ballast connectors. I am guessing that I need a 5 pin ecu?
Thanks Matt B

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Yes to the m&h harness. The ecu connector is built into the harness. Just double checked the ecu and it’s a 4 pin unit. The harness uses double ballast connectors. I am guessing that I need a 5 pin ecu?
Thanks Matt B

No, you don’t need a 5-pin ECU, a 4-pin ECU will work fine on 5-pin wiring, it simply does not require a dual ballast, half of the dual ballast is not used. Note the wiring diagrams posted. You need to figure out why ignition 1 is dead with the key on.

 

[RJRENTON]

No, you don’t need a 5-pin ECU, a 4-pin ECU will work fine on 5-pin wiring, it simply does not require a dual ballast, half of the dual ballast is not used. Note the wiring diagrams posted. You need to figure out why ignition 1 is dead with the key on.

IMO....the physical ignition switch, inside the column, under the turn signal switch, can fail. This switch is connected via the Molex connector at the base of the column. While restoring a friend's 1970 Chrysler 300, we discovered a burned contact that switched the ignition #1 feed....the symptom was an intermittent run/sometimes no start condition. Just a thought....
BOB RENTON

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Made a similar suggestion back in post #12

 

[Matt B.]

Thank you everyone for the help! I will look into those contacts.
Matt B

 

[Matt B.]

Ok, had a long day at hospital yesterday. I removed the duel ballast and put in a single ballast. I now have 11.8 volts at the run(blue) wires also at bulkhead. 6.0 volts at the start(brown/blue) wires also at the bulkhead. This is with the key in run position. Measured during cranking at the ballast start and bulkhead. Got 8.0 volts. Looked at the connections at base of steering column and looked good. Could this mean that my ignition switch is bad?
I do appreciate all the help. I never had this much problems 25 years ago when I worked on these cars.
Matt B

 

[Matt B.]

Also, what kind of readings should be at the starter relay? I know there should be 12 volts where the positive battery lead connects, but what about the solenoid and yellow wires?
Thanks Matt B

 

[Matt B.]

Wanted to give an update. Wasn’t electrical at all. The distributor gear was off. I rotated 180* and the center line was pointed just a little different. Put everything back together and fired right up. Thank you everyone for the help. It’s much appreciated.
Matt B

 

[Ron H]

This happened to me years ago...recall the engine acted like it wanted to just fire; but then not...popping and spewed some gas out of the carb giving clues on this. Curious, this happen in your case?

 

[Matt B.]

No spewing of gas. It would just crank. Only 1 time did it try to pop.
Thanks Matt B

 

[Ron H]

No spewing of gas. It would just crank. Only 1 time did it try to pop.
Thanks Matt B

Thanks for letting us know how this worked out; great to hear you have ignition!