Engine build suggestions please!

[67MPRFAN]

1 good thing about buying a new rotating assembly is no matter what size you decide to build the price is the same

 

[5.7 hemi]

Haven’t built one myself, but I did build a 400/470, that thing is an animal! Mopar action or Mopar something did a 383/496 a while ago, might dig around to find it and read it.

 

[7t500]

Haven’t built one myself, but I did build a 400/470, that thing is an animal! Mopar action or Mopar something did a 383/496 a while ago, might dig around to find it and read it.

I did read up on the 383/496 article you're talking about. I think I've found all the low deck build articles I can.... been researching for quite some time now

 

[PRHeads]

If I were to build something new, I’d go right for the 489(383) or 511(400).

Obviously, it’s likely the least expensive way to get on the road again is to repair the current 383.

 

[7t500]

If I were to build something new, I’d go right for the 489(383) or 511(400).

Obviously, it’s likely the least expensive way to get on the road again is to repair the current 383.

Repairing the current 383 probably is the least expensive. Its probably safe to assume that I will need bearings ($100-150), crank turning (~$300?). I do want a little more power (who doesn't) and a stroker build sounds like a great way to do that. However since my 383 is .040 over I would need to get it .060 to do a stroker kit... at that point it may be easier to do a different block anyway...

Unless I can come to terms with just keeping the engine with a stock stroke and maybe put my money into heads instead...

 

[67MPRFAN]

Have a machine shop check the bores and see if it needs bored out more then you can decide on how to proceed with motor upgrades

 

[Dajkzo]

A lot of good points there. A little more insight into my thought process...

I want to get a solid short block, stroker preferred, built up and for now use my heads, cam, intake, etc. Phase 2 in a year or 2 would be new aluminum heads, new cam, maybe a new intake.

I already have headers (headman) and a weiand aluminum dual plane intake.

Here is a good article on a 496 B block build. The rotating kits are the same price and nothing beats displacement. Even the cost machine is the same.

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/new-life-for-mopar-383-big-block/

 

[Garys1969RR]

Have you built one? Any issues with longevity?

We bought a 496 Already built. Had alot of leakage past the rings, not sure why, 30% plus. So using the parts to build a 512 with a 400 block, we'll see how that works. The wrist pin intersects the bottom of the oil ring, real short skirt. It had quite a bit of slap, so that didn't help. Running
.005 wall clearance on this new 512 stroker.

 

[Archangelgman26]

Did anyone build the 496? Seems like there is a lack of information about the build across all platforms. There are some articles and some discussion about the theory of operation. However, I am looking to see what someone built, and what the result was. I bought a beautiful 71 RR and that 383 was worn out. It is currently at the machine shop with my 496 stroker kit and stealth heads on the way to him. He will deck the block, bored 0.060 over, mock up the rotating assy, verifies clearances, cleans up the oil passage, opens the heads to mirror the bore difference on the new size to increase the chamber to approx 84cc and cleaner combustion chamber. He will also port the heads and port match the performer rpm dual plane intake. This will all gaskets will figure about 10.1:1 compression. I am looking for cam options, and this is where it gets tricky. I would like something I can drive to car shows, or up the interstate to my brother's house. At the same time, I would like something that can smoke the tires on command. Crane recommended a small cam working off Hydraulic Flat tappet. 238/238 @.50 and .502 lift on both sides. it has a 106 lobe separation, which will give the raspiness that I want. Has anyone had any success with one of these builds?

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

If the car is all mathcing,IMOP would take the engine and trans and put them away.Use a 440 block and build what you want.Trans cores are easy to find and build to your needs.Might take longer to save up but you will be happier in the long run!

 

[Curiousyellow71]

I understand the idea of setting the original engine aside if I was doing a high hp engine that may meet its maker in a blaze of rod throwing glory. But for a street car I would prefer to keep a original car together. It's probably the one circumstance that I would not build a 400. I would keep the engine and car together because its unusual to have one that survived...and imo really kool to keep it that way. However, I have no problem with stroking the original engine and making more torque and hp. Wolf in sheep clothing so to speak. 496...go for it!!

 

[wyrmrider]

Crane (and some others) mix their MOPAR grinds in with their chevy master mopar cams
BVVC
get what you pay for
With lunati voodoo you are sure to get MOPAR lobes
ditto on the Howards with a 15 in the notes column of the catalog
Comp has 3 in the XEnnnHL series rest are chevy lobes well they also have a Purple series
if you do do a 496 think custom- contact someone like Jim at Racer Brown or other that knows what he's doing
perhaps pm dart19666 AT CROWER

 

[Cranky]

I understand the idea of setting the original engine aside if I was doing a high hp engine that may meet its maker in a blaze of rod throwing glory. But for a street car I would prefer to keep a original car together. It's probably the one circumstance that I would not build a 400. I would keep the engine and car together because its unusual to have one that survived...and imo really kool to keep it that way. However, I have no problem with stroking the original engine and making more torque and hp. Wolf in sheep clothing so to speak. 496...go for it!!

I think a bit different in the original engine deal. For about the same money, I'd rather build a 400 vs the 383 because a big bore engine imo, is a better deal overall. The 400 generally has a stronger main web structure plus the larger than a 440 bore helps to not shroud larger valves. I also like to keep the stock stroke....if the car isn't a pig as far as weight goes. Yeah, torque is great but a light weight recip assembly will rev pretty dang quickly in a short stroke configuration. Kinda funny because I was a long stroke thinker in the 70's but these days I'm not which is totally opposite of the main stream street rodders. lol

 

[Curiousyellow71]

I admit I have a soft spot for a matching number car...and keeping it that way. Mainly... Because I've owned so many that the original engine is long gone. Gotta agree a high winding 383 could be fun to. Nothing wrong with going that direction. If there is a worry about a 4.25 stoke stressing the original 383 then I would buy a smaller stroker and not worry...still could add the lightweight internals and still let her wind.

 

[Cranky]

Thing is, I'm a believer in saving the original engine (if it's still with the car) and beating on something that still looks original so that you don't have to worry about killing the heart of the car. I like original numbers matching cars but have sold them just so I could get another car that wasn't matching just so I could drive it like I stole it and not worry about the trashing the drive train. I grew up with this stuff but won't beat the snot out of a 70 440 RT Challenger convertible these days like I did back in the early 80's. Yup, had one and did that lol but won't do it today. If I had that car today and could afford it, a well built engine would probably go in it while the original 440 got bagged and put away.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

IMO,,,,,Keep the original engine and trans safe and build something you don't care if you split the block with power!

 

[dvw]

The only real difference between a 383 and 400 is the bore. This is a street engine , correct? Either will work as a stroker. The 3.75", 4.150", 4.250" stroke will all work. Pistons are a little tougher to find for the 383. But 400 blocks are tougher to find. Don't get caught up on final cubic inch. Heads will be where the power comes from.
Doug

 

[Curiousyellow71]

I totally missed the "phase 2" in your thread. If you keep with your 906s a 383 stoker is fine. However... If aluminum heads are in your future build a 400, the main webs are heavier with more cubes and less shrouding like cranky mentioned. Also with all of the aftermarket components it makes less sense to put the original engine at risk.

 

[7t500]

I guess I should update now that this is seeing so much renewed traction (hopefully it helps others with similar questions). I decided to stick the numbers 383 under the bench and sourced a 400 engine for the stroker build. I went with the 440 Source 470 stroker kit and am running the 906 heads, Edelbrock RPM intake, holley 750, headers, pertronix ignitor III for now. I am very pleased with the results, even with a smaller cam (Comp XE268H, .477/480 lift and 268/280 duration). My build may need to go through more phases than originally hoped and right now I'm weighing pros/cons of where to go next; efi, cam, rockers, heads, etc.

Currently my thought is to get a 3.73 rear and do rockers (might do a 1.6 ratio to help the 470 breath with the current cam for now). Feel free to weigh in on opinions, I'm always open to listening to the knowledge of others!

 

[BSB67]

What's your budget?