Engine build suggestions

[gtxrt]

with 165 avg cranking compression is about 9.3-9.4 compression. i would go 1 size smaller cam. with the smaller comp xe 268 which as [email protected] and not the larger 274 has [email protected]. you will a gain more tq and lose a little hp.

 

[Rebelrouser]

So I am looking to add some power to my 69 440 and could use some help. The engine has about 1000 miles on it and it didn't exactly have the kick I was hoping for.

It's a stock 440 with a Holley 670 and Edelbrock performer 440 manifold.

I took off the iron 906 heads to check things out and to my surprise the short block wasn't what I told it was. I was told this engine had forged Ross pistons, and the block was decked. The pistons clearly are stock flat tops with no valve reliefs. Bummer. It also doesn't look like the block was decked since the piston doesn't go to the top of the deck. Compression test was all around 160-170.

My plan is the following:

Edelbrock thunder Avs 800cfm.
Edelbrock performer rpm
440 source heads
Comp XE274
TTI 1 7/8 headers

This car is going in a 70 charger and has a stock torque converter with 3.23's. the car has AC and power brakes.

I would like to get 450hp. Does anyone have any better suggestions on a cam other than this one to get to my goal? I'm not opposed to a solid camshaft. But with the stock flat tops, I'm not sure if it would make a big difference.

Thank you in advance

Below are photos of the pistons.

View attachment 1440459

View attachment 1440461

You should get 450 HP easy. I just built a 400 stroked to 512 with 452 heads slightly ported, 220 duration .525 lift hydraulic roller cam, fitech fuel injection, it made 500HP 538 ft lbs, and idles at 16 inches of vacuum on pump gas. Do not use a flat tappet camshaft spend the extra money for a hydraulic roller, more lift with less duration will give you tons of torque, and still idle pretty. Only issue I see is with a bigger cam you may have piston to valve clearance issues. Not sure how experienced you are, but a good engine computer program will tell you if whatever combination is right. I use performance trends, and if you put good info in the program, it gives good numbers. Have built scores of engines on the program, and on a real dyno within 10% almost all the time.

 

[70383ChargerSE]

Engine is out. Will check how far in the hole they are and hopefully pull some bearings by this weekend.

 

[70383ChargerSE]

With a feeler gauge pistons appear to be about .055- .060 in the hole. I don't have a dial indicator.

Will hopefully by this weekend, have it fully torn apart.

 

[RemCharger]

With a feeler gauge pistons appear to be about .055- .060 in the hole. I don't have a dial indicator.

Will hopefully by this weekend, have it fully torn apart.

Perfect it sounds like stock pistons. The good ones.
I built a late 70s low comp for a customer with the stealths ,274 and a holley SD with a 850 quick fuel . It was quite the low end freight train, actually a bit much for him he totaled a beautiful 67 belv ll survivor. Big power isn't for everyone lol

 

[70383ChargerSE]

Update: The engine will have to be bored and honed. Luckily this still keeps it at .040. I really didn't want to spend a lot of money on this but it is what it is. The engine will be a lot better than what it was.

I have stock 440 source heads thay are being looked over by the machine shop, he already said a few guides are tight so I am glad he has them.

I have purchased some goodies. Icon forged pistons, Howard's hydraulic roller camshaft with roller lifters (wow that was expensive, my credit card is still on fire), and a bunch of other stuff.

I have found out that I have to now use a bronze gear on my distributor. Is there anything else I can use? From what I have read, it appears that bronze gear wears out every couple of years.

I drive my cars a lot, like 7000 miles a year. Is there anything else I could buy that will last longer?

Also, this will be my first roller cam, any suggestions on a cam button, timing cover/chain set?

Thank you for all the help and suggestions

 

[diesel_lv]

Use a "Melonized" gear. Bronze wear, which "can" lead to timing issues, fine bronze particles in lifters along w all over engine oiling system, they are a consumable item. A Melonized gear works w the roller cam gear and is a one time purchase. Hughes has them.
As for cam button, I used a 440 Source timing cover, it is a touch thicker stamped steel that hasn't flexed on me using a roller cam and I use a Teflon button. Used some modeling putty, mocked everything up and measured just how much the putty squished. Then ground the Teflon button down to a hair below that, whatever the specs called for, then assembled.