Engine cuts out

[clazar]

1970 RR w/ 440 + 6. Chrysler electronic ignition. Orange electronic voltage regulator & newer ballast resistor. Cruising down the road today, the engine just stops running. Put it in neutral & drifted into a parking lot. The engine started right back up. What do I need to check or replace.

 

[Sinitro]

Double check the bulkhead connectors...
Pull apart clean the tabs and apply dia-lectric grease..

Just my $0.02...

 

[dadsbee]

Instant off or stumble off? Instant...check security of the connector and all female wire ends inside same at ignition module.

 

[clazar]

Instant off or stumble off? Instant...check security of the connector and all female wire ends inside same at ignition module.

Instant off

 

[68-500]

Coil

 

[threewood]

Any 12v connection. Try the ignition switch plug in wires. I've seen them work out of the connector. Same on the bulkhead connector. Check both sides for loose and corroded red or black.
I've also had a wire work loose on the starter.

 

[Russtoy]

I'm having a similar issue. My 69 charger, with a 440 source 512 kit. Hei distributor and coil. It will run for about 20 minutes. Then shut off. Jumper wire from battery. Same thing. It will restart, and run for 3-5 minutes. Then it has to wait. I have replaced the coil 3 times. Distributor 1 fuel pump electric. The pump is still running when it shuts off. Just like you turn the key off. I'm leaning toward replacing the distributor with a proform Chrysler electronic set up. But was interested in any thoughts. Thanks

 

[Russtoy]

I by passed the internal wiring with jumper wire. So or wasn't back feeding.

 

[clazar]

I'm having a similar issue. My 69 charger, with a 440 source 512 kit. Hei distributor and coil. It will run for about 20 minutes. Then shut off. Jumper wire from battery. Same thing. It will restart, and run for 3-5 minutes. Then it has to wait. I have replaced the coil 3 times. Distributor 1 fuel pump electric. The pump is still running when it shuts off. Just like you turn the key off. I'm leaning toward replacing the distributor with a proform Chrysler electronic set up. But was interested in any thoughts. Thanks

My 70 RR did the same thing about a year ago. Start it up & let it idle for a while. After 10 - 15 minutes it would just quit. Found out it was the orange ecu that did it. That might be what's wrong now with mine again. I put on a used orange one & it's doing it again only while driving this time.

 

[Bee1971]

To check the wiring like most have mentioned

Bring a simple test light with you in the car or a volt meter

That way when it dies

Key in the run position - Both sides of the ballast should have power along with positive side of coil

If it won’t start right away - Cranking position positive side of coil should have power also

Coil has been mentioned - When it gets hot and shuts down - Usually it takes awhile before it cools off and starts again

Some things that where not mentioned

Ground at ECU - Run a ground wire , alligator clips , from negative battery to ECU mounting bolt

Pick up coil within distributor - Double check gap with brass feeler gauge on at least four reluctor teeth - .006 - .008

Pick up coil could be shutting down when hot also

 

[clazar]

UPDATE !! She's running perfect again. Turned out I had 2 bad ecu's. It's amazing, bad stuff right out of box. Thanks everbody for your help.

 

[RJRENTON]

UPDATE !! She's running perfect again. Turned out I had 2 bad ecu's. It's amazing, bad stuff right out of box. Thanks everbody for your help.

Good morning.....after 2 on the road failures of the ECU....perhaps you will consider reverting back to the origional Mopar ignition system: Prestolite dual point distributor, standard 0.5 ohm ballast resistor and standard Mopar coil. As I've noted previously, my RS23V0A****** GTX with the Prestolite dual point distributor will run up to 6500 RPM, start and idles smoothly as the cam allows (it idles at ~ 1200 RPM hot) and has ZERO on the road failures in the past 34 years of ownership.....fancy GIZMOS are not the panacea everyone says.......
BOB RENTON

 

[clazar]

Good morning.....after 2 on the road failures of the ECU....perhaps you will consider reverting back to the origional Mopar ignition system: Prestolite dual point distributor, standard 0.5 ohm ballast resistor and standard Mopar coil. As I've noted previously, my RS23V0A****** GTX with the Prestolite dual point distributor will run up to 6500 RPM, start and idles smoothly as the cam allows (it idles at ~ 1200 RPM hot) and has ZERO on the road failures in the past 34 years of ownership.....fancy GIZMOS are not the panacea everyone says.......
BOB RENTON

I've considered that !!

 

[threewood]

Newer orange ECUs are absolute junk. Points would be an upgrade in my opinion. Or a Rev-N-Nator.

 

[Russtoy]

I got russtoy running again. I put in all new proform, Chrysler licensed electronic ignition. No ballast resistor. The coil is designed to run on 12 volts. It does have the orange box. It's been good for a couple hundred miles.

 

[Bruce73RR]

When you refer to the ECU are you talking about the Ignition Control Module that is mounted on the firewall? My 73 Road Runner is running terribly at the moment. Backfiring and dies under any load or attempt to idle. I have a orange Ignition Control Module that I am considering replacing in a troubleshooting effort.

 

[RemCharger]

When you refer to the ECU are you talking about the Ignition Control Module that is mounted on the firewall? My 73 Road Runner is running terribly at the moment. Backfiring and dies under any load or attempt to idle. I have a orange Ignition Control Module that I am considering replacing in a troubleshooting effort.

Considering it's 5 min tops if you're slow, I'd say you have nothing to lose

 

[clazar]

I had 2 bad ones out of the box. Someone told me, they are a rev limiter. Mine wouldn't rev past 3000 rpms. After changing it, mine ran perfect.

 

[Russtoy]

Well I fixed russtoy. I replaced the ignition system. Profirm makes a Chrysler licensed repop of the orange box and distributor. And I am using a plain black coil. Car has run great.

 

[Russtoy]

You also do not need a ballast resistor.