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Engine mounts are finally changed but the old ones look just fine

Michael_

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Chapter 1: Rant

Today i'm trying to be more calm but i can't resist, i feel like i HAVE TO tell people:

In case you missed my other thread: Changing the engine mounts on a 69 big block b body in a driveway SUCKS.

What's new today: The passenger side already sucked but the driver side was even harder. A lot harder!
EVERYTHING is in the way. Even the dipstick.
Yes it can be done, even without removing anything else but it is maybe the hardest thing to do on this vehicle that does
not require removing something else first. Both sides combined took us about 10 hours!!!
So i'm not buying the story of someone else being able to do it faster without having a lift and fancy tools.

My advice is don't do it if you have no lift.
There was a moment were we both thought we won't be able to put it back together.
I would also suggest removing the carburetor and lifting the engine with a crane instead of a jack.
Both works but the hoist method would be safer i think.

I believe you guys when you're saying that new/other cars are even harder to work on.
But still this charger is everything but my definition of "easy to work on".
At least in terms of with basic tools and without a lift. You might disagree with me but that's, in all honesty, what i think.

Don't buy such a car thinking some basic tools will let you fix anything on the side of the road with ease. You have been warned.
I've never seen vice grip garage change a motor mount outside his shop (or even at all).
Now i know why. He'd probably rather drive the cars home with a broken mount than signing up for this penalty.

Chapter 2: It maybe wasn't even worth it.

I attached some pictures of the old mounts. They do not really look broken.
What i noticed is they seem pretty new and according to what's printed on them i think they are 2 different mounts/brands.
One says "made in canada" which i assume means "not original".

Driver Side:

image0.jpeg
image1.jpeg
image2.jpeg
image3.jpeg
image4.jpeg
image5.jpeg


Passenger Side:

image0.jpeg
image3.jpeg
image4.jpeg
image5.jpeg


With the new mounts in we checked again with braking while giving some throttle and/or changing gears and it seems
that the engine is moving noticeably less. (It's not that it's not moving at all but i think it's somewhat less)
It actually feels like instead of just the engine moving the whole car moves a bit when changing gears. (Park to Drive)
This would be a good thing. But again the old mounts do not really look bad at all from a visual inspection.
But maybe the rubber is to soft? I don't know.

We will put the fan and clutch back in (i also bought a new hayden fan clutch, might be using that) and will see if the problem is solved next week.

Otherwise i might be freaking out and drive the car into a frickin' concrete wall. :D
charger-crash-2.jpg


If the problem should be solved after putting the fan and clutch back in i will also try swapping the transmission mount.
But i will try to find someone with a service pit or lift and then put my new mufflers on at the same time.
I've had enough lying under the car. It's no fun. I do it if i have to but not if i have a choice.
 
At least with todays prices you can buy a lift together with the car. It's almost peanuts on top of the purchase price. :D
 
With the tools you have, no engine hoist, and working an gravel I'm sure it was not fun. That should be great motivation to equip yourself with the right tools and working space to do future work. As with any classic car, there will plenty of other stuff to fix, so don't think it's not worth the investment.

Unless of course you choose the wall scenario...... in that case, that only tools needed will be a scraper, sponge, and bucket.
 
We don’t need no stinkin’ lift!

Save the old mounts. They are probably good quality.
 
If the engine is moving that much you should check the center link to oil pan clearance. My friends car had problems with them hitting and it pushed the engine forwards a good inch.



 
The trouble with lifting the engine with an engine lift to do the job is that the legs of the engine lift end up being right where you want to be laying.
What type of new mounts did you install? (made in China) Anchors?
 
If the engine is moving that much you should check the center link to oil pan clearance. My friends car had problems with them hitting and it pushed the engine forwards a good inch.





But i think it would only do this while driving/turning the steering wheel then?
When laying under the car i haven't noticed something hitting the oil pan but i also have not been looking for that.
At this point im not sure the engine is moving to much. But how is the best way to check for that?

The trouble with lifting the engine with an engine lift to do the job is that the legs of the engine lift end up being right where you want to be laying.
What type of new mounts did you install? (made in China) Anchors?

No i was being smart, did research and bought these:
 
My advice is don't do it if you have no lift.
Oh bah humbug! I can do (and have done, many times) the mounts on my '68 (w/ power steering and headers) in less than an hour, with nothing more than a floor jack and regular hand tools. I keep the car on the tires and the engine only needs to be moved a small amount to take pressure off the through-bolts.
10 hours?? Ho-lee crap dude.......
 
The Anchor engine mounts are probably the reason you have a bunch of movement. But thats 600ish pounds sitting on top of rubber. I would expect some movement. You could do solid mounts but then you get vibrations through out the car. Or you could try ploy mounts. should be a little stiffer than the anchors. I'm almost sure there is only one brand stock style engine mount. That would be Anchor and they may have other name brands but I bet they are just rebranded.

Poly mounts.
Polyurethane Engine Mounts for Mopar Big Block 383 400 440 66-72B 66-73C 70-74E | eBay

1966-72 Mopar B, 66-73 C, 70-74 E Body PolyLoc Motor Mounts (V8 ex. 426ci Hemi) | eBay
 
The Anchor engine mounts are probably the reason you have a bunch of movement. But thats 600ish pounds sitting on top of rubber. I would expect some movement. You could do solid mounts but then you get vibrations through out the car. Or you could try ploy mounts. should be a little stiffer than the anchors. I'm almost sure there is only one brand stock style engine mount. That would be Anchor and they may have other name brands but I bet they are just rebranded.

Poly mounts.
Polyurethane Engine Mounts for Mopar Big Block 383 400 440 66-72B 66-73C 70-74E | eBay

1966-72 Mopar B, 66-73 C, 70-74 E Body PolyLoc Motor Mounts (V8 ex. 426ci Hemi) | eBay

I did NOT buy anchor mounts. (I know they suck)
I bought those: Dynatech Engine Mounts (pair) - New-440 Source
I think they're those: DynaTech Engineering - Mitymounts

Checking the centerlink clearance is probably best done turning the steering wheel from left to right and watching what happens underneath the car?
 
And what again was the issue why you changed the mounts?
 
Ahh ok I have not heard of the Mity Mounts. Well, hell not sure what to tell you.
 
I did NOT buy anchor mounts. (I know they suck)
I bought those: Dynatech Engine Mounts (pair) - New-440 Source
I think they're those: DynaTech Engineering - Mitymounts

Checking the centerlink clearance is probably best done turning the steering wheel from left to right and watching what happens underneath the car?
Best of luck with those mity-mounts...not sure what kind of oats your engine's making but I broke them with a 440 @less than 500HP. What a bummer, after dropping over 100 clams on them...live and learn!
 
I am going to suggest that anytime you work on your car going forward that you observe the 24 hour rule before posting. :)
It’s going to be okay, you accomplished the mission no mater how hard it was or how long it took !
 
Best of luck with those mity-mounts...not sure what kind of oats your engine's making but I broke them with a 440 @less than 500HP. What a bummer, after dropping over 100 clams on them...live and learn!

Well that sucks since i bought them because they state in the description:
"You absolutely WILL NOT break these mounts ever! In fact, they are covered by a LIFETIME WARRANTY for as long as you own the car!"

My car is 100% stock so it should make 375 sae gross hp and since it's got 90k miles on it it's probably less. (But the engine is healthy / no slouch)

@beanhead What are you using and think about these?
 
Chapter 1: Rant

Today i'm trying to be more calm but i can't resist, i feel like i HAVE TO tell people:

In case you missed my other thread: Changing the engine mounts on a 69 big block b body in a driveway SUCKS.

What's new today: The passenger side already sucked but the driver side was even harder. A lot harder!
EVERYTHING is in the way. Even the dipstick.
Yes it can be done, even without removing anything else but it is maybe the hardest thing to do on this vehicle that does
not require removing something else first. Both sides combined took us about 10 hours!!!
So i'm not buying the story of someone else being able to do it faster without having a lift and fancy tools.

My advice is don't do it if you have no lift.
There was a moment were we both thought we won't be able to put it back together.
I would also suggest removing the carburetor and lifting the engine with a crane instead of a jack.
Both works but the hoist method would be safer i think.

I believe you guys when you're saying that new/other cars are even harder to work on.
But still this charger is everything but my definition of "easy to work on".
At least in terms of with basic tools and without a lift. You might disagree with me but that's, in all honesty, what i think.

Don't buy such a car thinking some basic tools will let you fix anything on the side of the road with ease. You have been warned.
I've never seen vice grip garage change a motor mount outside his shop (or even at all).
Now i know why. He'd probably rather drive the cars home with a broken mount than signing up for this penalty.

Chapter 2: It maybe wasn't even worth it.

I attached some pictures of the old mounts. They do not really look broken.
What i noticed is they seem pretty new and according to what's printed on them i think they are 2 different mounts/brands.
One says "made in canada" which i assume means "not original".

Driver Side:

View attachment 1306483View attachment 1306484View attachment 1306485View attachment 1306486View attachment 1306487View attachment 1306488

Passenger Side:

View attachment 1306490View attachment 1306493View attachment 1306494View attachment 1306495

With the new mounts in we checked again with braking while giving some throttle and/or changing gears and it seems
that the engine is moving noticeably less. (It's not that it's not moving at all but i think it's somewhat less)
It actually feels like instead of just the engine moving the whole car moves a bit when changing gears. (Park to Drive)
This would be a good thing. But again the old mounts do not really look bad at all from a visual inspection.
But maybe the rubber is to soft? I don't know.

We will put the fan and clutch back in (i also bought a new hayden fan clutch, might be using that) and will see if the problem is solved next week.

Otherwise i might be freaking out and drive the car into a frickin' concrete wall. :D
View attachment 1306496

If the problem should be solved after putting the fan and clutch back in i will also try swapping the transmission mount.
But i will try to find someone with a service pit or lift and then put my new mufflers on at the same time.
I've had enough lying under the car. It's no fun. I do it if i have to but not if i have a choice.
Oh and by the way, were's not going to have a big ol' pissin match/train wreck of a thread like the last one.
 
Last edited:
And what again was the issue why you changed the mounts?

This:
 
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