Engine stalls intermittently…ignition switch?

[Davefinan]

What corrosion inhibiting compound do you recommend?

 

[Davefinan]

The fix.......sell me the car, I'll fix all the miscellaneous gremlins......loose/corroded bulkhead connections (solder all wire/terminal connections), bad coil, bad ballast resistor, distributor pickup coil, vacuum leaks, overheating issues (with correct fan clutch, lower radiator hose with spring), correct pressure cap, set timing for optimum performance with manifold or ported vacuum advance (you decide which is BEST for you), using NGK -5 spark plugs, ethanol free fuel......and NOT USING A DIELECTRIC GREASE (as its an insulating compound....but using a conductive/corrosion inhibiting compound), wash and wax the car, with ALL Tyre valve stem caps torqued correctly. My charge for this service is: price of car plus 40% fee........then all you need to do is use the car....instead of fussing over minor stuff......just something to consider........????.....
BOB RENTON

What corrosion inhibiting compound do you recommend?

 

[RJRENTON]

BOB..
I must have missed it..
But what are the torque specs on the valve stem caps?
Thanx.
Just my $0.02..

I was just trying to inject a little facetious "humor". The torque on the tyre's valve stem caps can vary depending on brand and length of stem.....but depends on whether you're a Metric or US measurement person......but the correct value is: 17 inch/ounce or 4.3 newton/meters....or just enough.......

What corrosion inhibiting compound do you recommend?

DOW Corning made a product called "NO-OX". I used it when assembling bolted busbar connections on 1200 amp 5 kv metal clad switch gear. It was a material that looked like yellow margarine but was conductive yet prevented corrosion in the bolted connections. It was brush applied in a thin coating between two joints......worked extremely well...great when used on battery terminals and the connector. ...try a Google search.....
BOB RENTON

 

[Davefinan]

I was just trying to inject a little facetious "humor". The torque on the tyre's valve stem caps can vary depending on brand and length of stem.....but depends on whether you're a Metric or US measurement person......but the correct value is: 17 inch/ounce or 4.3 newton/meters....or just enough.......

DOW Corning made a product called "NO-OX". I used it when assembling bolted busbar connections on 1200 amp 5 kv metal clad switch gear. It was a material that looked like yellow margarine but was conductive yet prevented corrosion in the bolted connections. It was brush applied in a thin coating between two joints......worked extremely well...great when used on battery terminals and the connector. ...try a Google search.....
BOB RENTON

Yeah I’ll do that. I remember from days working as a union construction electrician a compound with a similar name. I think it was nolox or close to that. Everyone on the job had a different name for it. I suspect a brand name probably.

 

[Davefinan]

I think the name that was used was pentrox.

 

[Davefinan]

I think the name that was used was pentrox.

We used on connection s of aluminum and copper together.

 

[artr8]

First of all, there may be brighter gents out there but here is my penny for your thoughts.
Try raising the idle speed 200 rpm to see if it fixes the stall.
A modern ignition needs 12 volts. If the alternator output drops below the required ignition input, the car stalls.
Simple draws such as brake lights, turn signals can be enough to drop below ignition input needed. Add in headlights, heater, etc it can compound a low engine speed voltage drop.

 

[twecomm]

So.. after all this, think we will have a post saying what the fix, if any was ?

 

[bobfake]

Checked all wiring. Seems good. Waiting for a new ignition switch from Classic Industries to come in this week. Will post an update after I install it and drive for a while.

 

[Dennis H]

Dialectic. Was the Bulkhead sprayed? Got a buck that says it’s not the ignition.

 

[RJRENTON]

First of all, there may be brighter gents out there but here is my penny for your thoughts.
Try raising the idle speed 200 rpm to see if it fixes the stall.
A modern ignition needs 12 volts. If the alternator output drops below the required ignition input, the car stalls.
Simple draws such as brake lights, turn signals can be enough to drop below ignition input needed. Add in headlights, heater, etc it can compound a low engine speed voltage drop.

The engine will continue to run, and the required power will be furnished by the battery......this is how the system is designed to operate until conditions revert back to a more normal operation with the alternator furnishing the majority of the power, replacing what was supplied by the battery during slow running higher load conditions.......just my opinion of course.......
BOB RENTON

 

[Sinitro]

I was just trying to inject a little facetious "humor". The torque on the tyre's valve stem caps can vary depending on brand and length of stem.....but depends on whether you're a Metric or US measurement person......but the correct value is: 17 inch/ounce or 4.3 newton/meters....or just enough.......

BOB RENTON

Thanks Bob..
My personal experience of 17 Inches of torque is too low..
The torque spec goes far beyond valve stem length. Tire valve stems can be made from multiple materials such as synthetic rubber for standard passeenger vehicles, motorcycles and even upgrading to brass for more durable metal valve stems which are also found in components like the valve core itself. My personal preference in my high performance racing wheels are the Aluminum type as used in certain tire pressure monitoring sensor (TPMS) valve stems can take up to 22 inches. But extreme care needs to be taken to use nickel-plated cores to prevent galvanic corrosion with brass valve cores.

Just my $0.02...

 

[bobfake]

Hi all…finally got the new ignition switch installed. Had it out twice and no recurrence of the problem so far.

 

[bobfake]

Well...found out it was not the switch. After putting 3 trips and maybe 5 miles on the car after the new ignition switch, I felt good about taking to Cars and Coffee this morning - about 12 miles. Ran great...until about mile 11. Very quick "stumble" and then it continued to run fine.

Left C&C and headed home and went about 5 miles and it simply stopped running while driving about 35 mph. Pushed in the clutch and pumped the gas, let out the clutch and it started back up. Went maybe another 1/8 mile and the same thing, then another 1/8 mile, only this time it wouldn't restart. Pulled off the side of the road and waited maybe 3-4 minutes and it fired right up. The only things I did after stopping were remove the air cleaner, check if fuel squirting into the primaries(yes) and check primary and secondary windings of coil with multi meter (checked OK). Turned the key and VROOM....fired up and ran great the rest of the way home.

Something I noticed as I was driving this time...I smelled raw fuel. I didn't see anything leaking around the carburetor or down by the fuel pump. I have no idea how old the fuel pump is on this car, so thinking this might be a relatively inexpensive and quick change to make along with the hoses, just to eliminate the pump as an issue.

Intermittent problems are the worst...

 

[twecomm]

If you are going to remove the fuel pump, check the legenth of the fuel pump push rod. They do wear out.. Also check fuel filter.

 

[The Rebel]

Check your battery terminals for corrosion and that the cables are making a tight connection.

 

[bobfake]

If you are going to remove the fuel pump, check the legenth of the fuel pump push rod. They do wear out.. Also check fuel filter.

Thanks…fuel filter is new. By “push rod”, are you referring to this arm? I wouldn’t have thought about that part wearing out as it rides on an eccentric on the camshaft…

 

[bobfake]

Check your battery terminals for corrosion and that the cables are making a tight connection.

Thanks…all clean and tight.

 

[toolmanmike]

DOW Corning made a product called "NO-OX". I used it when assembling bolted busbar connections on 1200 amp 5 kv metal clad switch gear. It was a material that looked like yellow margarine but was conductive yet prevented corrosion in the bolted connections. It was brush applied in a thin coating between two joints......worked extremely well...great when used on battery terminals and the connector. ...try a Google search.....
BOB RENTON

That would work well in a turn signal switch I bet. Thanks for the tip.

 

[toolmanmike]

Thanks…fuel filter is new. By “push rod”, are you referring to this arm? I wouldn’t have thought about that part wearing out as it rides on an eccentric on the camshaft…

View attachment 1927933

Big blocks run a short arm pump and a pushrod. Small block pumps have no pushrod.