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factory max wedge firewall brake lines

Geri

Deceased, But not forgotton
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when I got my '63 SS Plymouth it was noted the brake line from driver side fluid dist block to the right front wheel was higher on the firewall than stock cars. factory bulletin stated it was raised to get the brake lines farther away from the exhaust manifold heat. anyone else observe that?
 
Your statement is true. Max cars did differ under the hood from the standard cars. It's been awhile(only 30+ years ago) but I do remember having a discussion at a Direct Connection seminar in Ohio.
 
Your statement is true. Max cars did differ under the hood from the standard cars. It's been awhile(only 30+ years ago) but I do remember having a discussion at a Direct Connection seminar in Ohio.
thanks for the information, I was sure my '63 had the raised brake line ,I couldn't find a picture showing exactly where it went -I had to bend one up that stayed away from the manifolds, it fits well and came out Ok, considering I made the bends from standing in front of the car looking at the firewall, its in- it will work..
 
Also I think places like Fine Lines or Inline Tube have different part numbers for the Maxi/Hemi and Standard early B's so something is different.
 
1962 Dart Max Wedge brake line.
20180824_123301[1].jpg
 
In 1963 (when I was 21 years old) I ordered a BRAND NEW 1963 PLYMOUTH BELVEDERE MAX WEDGE ALUMINUM FRONT END CAR.
20110624_46.jpg
I must admit when the car came in I was quite excited about it and I really never checked the brake line placement on the firewall (LOL).
I also did not check the brake line placement on the brand new 1968 HEMI Road Runner that I took delivery of in 1968 (lol, again)
20110624_14.jpg
 
In 1963 (when I was 21 years old) I ordered a BRAND NEW 1963 PLYMOUTH BELVEDERE MAX WEDGE ALUMINUM FRONT END CAR.
I must admit when the car came in I was quite excited about it and I really never checked the brake line placement on the firewall (LOL).
I also did not check the brake line placement on the brand new 1968 HEMI Road Runner that I took delivery of in 1968 (lol, again)
View attachment 643004
there was a '65 Hemi goldfinger dodge was that your car? the only reason I remembered the brake line was I got a bulletin from Chrysler about it. in making the new line I gotthe long lenght of brake line with flared ends, it is much lighter in manufacturing than original. I double flared the connection points and- every one is leaking. I've been building brake lines for these cars for over50 years and till this crap (from China)? came along never an issue, now where do I get real tubing to remake the lines? no problem making them over if the materials are quality. but-I have to try again. here's a top tuner tip you don't want to try, my right front brake drum has a hard spot turning over nearly stops rotation cannot turn the drum by hand? it has rear drums on the front,,any way during all this I had re tightened the brake line connections and got in the car to pump up the brakes to find leaks, pedal went to the floor?? again and again? when I went back to the right front - found I had not put the drum back on, at least I know where one major leak is. do over's ...brake hardware is expensive, makes changing over to disc brakes a serious option. anyone doing that? (it's not how much, it's how much a month) I appreciate all input my memory is fading fast. also finding at 77 years old I cannot do the work,frustrating.
 
beings I am going to make a new brake line I'll try to copy this one, I do appreciate you posting it in this great detail.
No problem. Glad to help. If you need measurments, let me know. It's easy to get to now.
I'm putting the motor in later next week, it won't be so easy to measure it then...lol Mark
 
No problem. Glad to help. If you need measurments, let me know. It's easy to get to now.
I'm putting the motor in later next week, it won't be so easy to measure it then...lol Mark
I made a full page picture of it- plenty of detail to see where to route it, it appears to have heat shield insulation on lower ends- is that your notion or factory? also-I'd rather have your car than the one I have,if that's not a bother.
 
It was already on the pre bent line. I didn't know the spring parts were heat insulation. Maybe it should be moved to the upper part of the line, where the rise is. Hum...
 
A quick google search, suggests the spring is a gravel guard used for protection of the line. The spring was pushed to the flare nut when I opened the package, so I left it there.
 
The lower clip on the passenger side is for Non Max wedge cars where the brake line is uneffected by the manifold heat. The Max Wedge brake line was an after thought or a band-aid, and there was never a firewall clip for this line, that I've ever seen, anyways.
max wedge brake line.png
 
It was already on the pre bent line. I didn't know the spring parts were heat insulation. Maybe it should be moved to the upper part of the line, where the rise is. Hum...
I assumed they were heat shields, I don't know that for fact, consult the manufacturer. one trick I've been able to do is drill a hole in the frame rail alongside the fuel pump just at the frame/ firewall support of the fender there is a hole about 1-1/2"diameter? I make a piece long enough to go through that and come out alongside the fuel pump just to isolate if from the engine heat. its tricky but can be done.
 
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I assumed they were heat shields, I don't know that for fact, consult the manufacturer. one trick I've been able to do is drill a hole ABOUT 1/2" diameter-in the frame rail alongside the fuel pump -back at the frame/ firewall support of the fender there is a hole about 1-1/2"diameter? that gives access to that portion of the frame rail. I make a piece of fuel line long enough to go through that part of the frame rail about 28"?? and come out alongside the fuel pump just to isolate if from the engine heat. its tricky but can be done.
 
That's a good idea. I'll look into that! I haven't done the fuel line yet, but I have some 3/8 SS tubing for it.
 
When I drilled the exit hole in the frame rail it is slightly behind the fuel pump this(by luck) avoided a support inside the frame rail, I used a large heel bar to oblong the hole to exit- up on the back side down on the front side. there are supports farther back but,I used a piece of oxy/acet welding rod to feel the way forward- then put small bends in the fuel tubing the exit was bent out about 30 degree's? this allowed it to exit the frame hole better. I also put a loop of wire inside the hole when the tube arrived at the exit I was able to pull it through, not as hard as it may sound, a little patience will be rewarded with a hidden fuel line.
it was worth it to me to try. I'll see if I can get a picture of the exit in the station wagon frame from the current owner.
That's a good idea. I'll look into that! I haven't done the fuel line yet, but I have some 3/8 SS tubing for it.
UIT
 
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