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Fastening rolling stacker toolbox inside Enclosed trailer

BanginGears

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I need ideas on how to fasten my stacker 2 tier tool box inside my enclosed trailer.
My last attempt didn't go so well.
Both L brackets came out of the trailer wall and it tipped over.
Pictures would be helpful.
 
Maybe some pics of the wall in your trailer you want to fasten to. But you're dealing with thin walls in the trailer with thin plywood? over it so you are going to want to have big or long brackets that extend over a large area to disperse the load.
 
You can't expect a couple screws in 1/8" wall material and 18 gauge frame material to hold a 500 pound tool box !!
 
Builtin tool boxes are best....and ones that are not stacked up. IE counter top type boxes are best. They are low and the weight is distributed across more area. You might contact the company that built the trailer for what might be best for it.
 
I have Craftsman base cabinets in my trailer. I left the wheels off and built a base for them that is mounted to the cabinet and the floor. Been many miles that way and no problems. Plus it gave me a work top for repairs and such at the track! Sorry, no pics but you can imagine. Not hard at all to do. ruffcut
 
Thru-Bolt them down, big fender washers if need be
&/or to the exterior walls
or spaced out & steel spacers thru-bolted in, to the frame structure
& lock the drawers when traveling too...

no cheesy screws/anchors

or make something to go in-front of it & lock it/drawers in place

a toolbox especially full of tools, getting loose is a bad deal
 
A couple lengths of this stuff, SECURELY fastened to the trailer wall, a furniture blanket from hf, and some ratchet straps. I have 1" for furniture, 1 1/2 for rolling stuff, and 2" for car tie down.
Lock the drawers, a couple, maybe three straps, done.

20220409_162500.jpg
 
Mine uses a Harbor frieght tool cart. Holds everything I could ever need. https://www.harborfreight.com/30-in...&campaignid=12192887200&utm_content=120010558 I have a L bracket bolted to the stainless cabinet top. The top has nut-serts, 3 6MM bolts hold it. The L channel is bolted to the side of the box. Look closely at the right side you'll see the angle and one of the bolts. It is on wheels as well. Remove the 3 bolts and it rolls out.
Doug
20181126_141812.jpg
 
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A couple lengths of this stuff, SECURELY fastened to the trailer wall, a furniture blanket from hf, and some ratchet straps. I have 1" for furniture, 1 1/2 for rolling stuff, and 2" for car tie down.
Lock the drawers, a couple, maybe three straps, done.

View attachment 1267304
This is how I tie my tool box to the wall while traveling down the road also. I didn't want to fasten it to the wall/floor because I roll it out of the trailer into my pit stall while out at the track from saving to have to go up and down/in and out of the trailer all day.
 
This is how I tie my tool box to the wall while traveling down the road also. I didn't want to fasten it to the wall/floor because I roll it out of the trailer into my pit stall while out at the track from saving to have to go up and down/in and out of the trailer all day.
Yep. I assumed it was on rollers so he could roll it in or out of his trailer, and garage. Lots more utility if I can roll it where I want.
 
I like the E-Track too. Have two strips (Upper and Lower) on drivers side wall of trailer that I strap a small rolling tool box (Upper and lower tool box parts) to.
Also use the E-track to hold the spare tire to the drivers side wall.
I also have a piece across the front above the lower cabinets to strap down anything on top of the cabinet. Usually the cooler.
 
Screw a couple of 2x4’s into the floor to keep it from rolling and use a load lock from Harbor Freight to keep it from tipping.
 
Whatever strapping you use, E tracking, angle, etc, to hold your box secure, you have to make sure that you’re hitting the vertical wall hat channels with your anchors. Those are always a bugger to find on a finished trailer because more often than not, those vertical channels are close at best for being accurately spaced on centre. Here’s a pic showing a typical wall.

AA6F782A-AFFF-4380-810A-5883CF07AB88.jpeg
 
Thanks. I think 2 of them will do the trick.jyst hope it doesn't dent my trailer walls and cabinet doors.
I’d put a 2x4 across the opposite side to spread the load and place the load lock where the ribs are located. You don’t need to put a lot of pressure on them. You just need to snug them up.
 
I have the E track down the entire length of both sides of my trailer to fasten everything to.

20170414_193429.jpeg
 
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