FI Tech wiring question

[maxwell1]

Hi all Iam working on my 70 GTX wanting to wire my Fi Tech was wondering where to get my keyed on power all the time? Iam thinking of using the electric choke as a power on through the key with a relay and a circut breaker. Open for suggestions Thanx Joel

 

[jeepthrills01]

Is it a trigger wire your looking for or are you going to use it to power the system?

Personally on a system like that I would built it it's own buss. Fuel pump, pcm...uses quite a bit of power. A little 3 or 5 circuit add on panel...and make your key on/off etc..through relays triggered by OE wiring from the ignition switch.

Edit: just realized we are having the same idea...guess I read your post too quick. ; )

 

[maxwell1]

Is it a trigger wire your looking for or are you going to use it to power the system?

Personally on a system like that I would built it it's own buss. Fuel pump, pcm...uses quite a bit of power. A little 3 or 5 circuit add on panel...and make your key on/off etc..through relays triggered by OE wiring from the ignition switch.

Its a signal wire that has to have power all the way through the start process. I have a separate power for the fuel pump and it has a separate power for the ecm.

 

[matthon]

I believe you're referring to the white wire.

I put a positive hub under the dash and connected the start and run wire, as well as the white wire iirc.

I also installed a Painless 7 circuit box in place of my original fuse box. Comes with circuit breaker and relay.

Wiring harness

 

[maxwell1]

I believe you're referring to the white wire.

I put a positive hub under the dash and connected the start and run wire, as well as the white wire iirc.

I also installed a Painless 7 circuit box in place of my original fuse box. Comes with circuit breaker and relay.

Wiring harness

Yes the white wire coming out of the FI TECH unit.(would be a signal wire)

 

[66chargerpat]

I tied the blue and brown wire for the ballast resistor to the white wire. You will have to do something else for your coil.

 

[383man]

On my sons car with the Holley Sniper EFI we tied the wire that needs to be hot in run and crank into the J2 circuit that feeds the ballast. You don't need the ballast with the EFI or MSD which is on his car so we soldered the blue (hot in run) and brown wire(hot in start) all together and hooked the sniper feed into it that is hot in run and crank. Ron

 

[matthon]

I did similar, but put a positive hub under the dash, ran both the ign start and run to it.
Powered FiTech and coil off the hub, and voltmeter.
Alt is direct from fusebox, I have a 4Runner Alt, and dizzy off coil.

 

[matthon]

Rough draft of my wiring.
Iirc I just ran the tach off the hub.
The Painless 7 replaced my factory fuse box, installed in same place, fit perfect.

 

[451Mopar]

If you don't need the factory ballast resistor, just tie the start and run wires (Each side of the ballast resistor) together.
If you have stock type ignition, put a diode in parallel with the ballast resistor. The Diode should be able to handle at least 5 - amps.

 

[383man]

If you don't need the factory ballast resistor, just tie the start and run wires (Each side of the ballast resistor) together.
If you have stock type ignition, put a diode in parallel with the ballast resistor. The Diode should be able to handle at least 5 - amps.

Just make sure its the ign 1 and ign 2 wires you tie together. The ign 2 is hot when cranking so it will be ok to tie it to ign 1 since they are different terminals on the ign switch. If you actually tie the ign 1 to the start wire on the ign switch the car will crank when you turn the ign key to run. But as 451Mopar said you can tie the wires together at the ballast which is ign 1 (J2 circuit blue wire) and ign 2 (brown wire). Good luck. Ron