• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

First Time Engine Starting

Great! Yea, I had to have my son prime the pump while I slowly turned this freshly rebuilt motor. I wanted to make sure I was getting oil to the 2-4-6-8 top end side. Had the rocker shaft off, and when it finally lined up, oil shot out of the bolt hole and went clear across the garage! Was hard to tell, but I'm pretty sure it was around 270 After TDC. Thanks!
 
If a engine has been rebuild the builder uses assembly lube right?
So if you crank the engine first with no spark plugs installed you also prime the engine without putting any load on the parts.
Even if it had been sitting for 6 months the assembly lube would still serve its purpose i believe.
 
Even if it had been sitting for 6 months the assembly lube would still serve its purpose i believe.
Whether the engine has already been run in, but has sat for awhile, or a fresh build w/ assembly lube, all the oiling ports are dry! So, you ask yourself...is it worth it, to take a chance. My experience says no. 10 seconds without oil, and the affected parts start taking damage.
Yeah, didn't think about rotating the engine, to get both banks. Usually, I don't worry about it, since I get a grooved #4 cam bearing, or the #4 cam journal gets one.
I'd get it done by rotating the engine by hand, though, not using the starter.
 
When cranking without plugs you also build up oil pressure and fill all the gallery's as well.
There is no compression so all components are moving without load.
Just thinking that is way easier and the result is the the same.
That's the way i used to do with other (modern type) engines after rebuild, but maybe there is a specific reason to not use this on a good old mopar?
 
You can turn the engine over with the starter, with out plugs, and it might prime itself, if your pump is new or in good condition. Make sure you confirm it gets pressure, with a gauge.
 
Well, who rebuild his engine without using a new or tested oil pump??
And as every other time you start your car, it will prime.
 
What wyrmrider said.
But, a little help, especially if the timing is already set, do this...

By hand, turn the engine over, until the timing marks line up, on compression stroke #1.
That's simply because you have to pull the distributor, and distributor drive shaft out. No big deal if you get things off, just means you'll need to re-time it.
Before you pull the distributor, note the direction the rotor is pointing. Pull the distributor.
Then, take note on the slot position, top of the drive gear. Sounds like alot, but really isn't...just helps get the parts back in right.
Drive gear needs to come out, slight rotation, as it does. Pre-oil shaft goes in that bushing, hex end into the oil pump drive hex. Do the pre-oil, forcing oil into the empty ports in the engine.

Then, re-install the drive shaft, and distributor, same positions they were in. If right, engine will at least start, only needing the timing checked, and set as needed.

Bottom line...the engine has oil where needed, before you fire it off. No difference than a fresh re-build, but already broke in!
Just read your post regarding the pre-oil of the engine. I bought the oil pump drive hex rod and need to know how to remove the drive gear so I can place the HEX END into the oil pump to prime? Can you tell me the steps? I have a 426 Hemi, 1967, which I am putting back into my car today. The engine was rebuilt and sitting on a stand for over a year. I have turned the engine over with my breaker bar during its time on the engine stand. I have set the #1 piston at TDC and wanted to pre-oil before starting. Any help is appreciated, my first time doing this. Thank you.
 
To get the oil pump drive out take a screw driver in the drive slot turn CCW note position of slot, I have a 2 jaw grabber to put it out. To get it in the same position you turn gear CCW until it slides down in position you had before removing.
A strong magnetic retriever. A fish me out that stupid nut I dropped.:lol:

You said timing set, so take a piece of tape stick it to base of distributor and on to block. Slice tape so when you remove dist the tape is on both dist and block. WATCH WHERE rotor is point before you remove dist.
 
Last edited:
To get the oil pump drive out take a screw driver in the drive slot turn CCW note position of slot, I have a 2 jaw grabber to put it out. To get it in the same position you turn gear CCW until it slides down in position you had before removing.
A strong magnetic retriever. A fish me out that stupid nut I dropped.:lol:

You said timing set, so take a piece of tape stick it to base of distributor and on to block. Slice tape so when you remove dist the tape is on both dist and block. WATCH WHERE rotor is point before you remove dist.
Thank you
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top