Floor replacement bracing

[Moparkrazed]

Hi guys, hope everyone had a good Christmas and new year. I’m not sure if this is the correct spot to post this so someone please let me know if I need to move it. I’m getting ready to cut out my old floor panels and replace them. I’ll also be doing the rear floor panels as well as the complete front floor as all of the metal is pretty weak. Before I cut out the floor pans I know I need to brace the car. I’m having a hard time finding 1 inch box tubing in the correct length ( it’s all too short) around here. Would I be able to use 1 1/4 angle iron instead? Or is something better I could use? Thanks for any help or suggestions.

 

[eldubb440]

unless your entire inner structures are swiss cheese, you don't really need to brace anything.........if you have concerns, line up your doors perfectly before any welding

 

[Moparkrazed]

unless your entire inner structures are swiss cheese, you don't really need to brace anything......... line up your doors perfectly before any welding

Ok cool stuff! The only thing that’s making me nervous is the torsion bar cross member is rotted almost all the way through about 4 inches from the passenger side rocker. I’m going to replace that when the floors come out as well. Outside of that the structures look good.

 

[eldubb440]

Ok cool stuff! The only thing that’s making me nervous is the torsion bar cross member is rotted almost all the way through about 4 inches from the passenger side rocker. I’m going to replace that when the floors come out as well. Outside of that the structures look good.

you'll be fine...... Iv'e done a lot of 66-70, but it's all the same....... you'll find a lot of good tips here, starts in the rear, but covers floor pans too

just a little off the back and sides please

 

[eldubb440]

someone asked me about bracing their car before cutting,

my reply was, "I prefer a little flex if I need it, I like to be able to put it where I want it"

 

[Moparkrazed]

someone asked me about bracing their car before cutting,

my reply was, "I prefer a little flex if I need it, I like to be able to put it where I want it"

Makes sense. Not like the aftermarket panels fit perfectly ever haha. I appreciate the feedback and that link, I’ll go ahead and start reading through it.

 

[70chall440]

Makes sense. Not like the aftermarket panels fit perfectly ever haha. I appreciate the feedback and that link, I’ll go ahead and start reading through it.

The factory panes didn't fit perfect either so don't worry about that. Depending on how much you are planning to do at one, I would get the car on jack stands in 6 spots, 4 under the passenger compartment under the rocker panels and then 2 up front under the frame where the front bumper attaches and then 2 under the back frame where the rear bumper attaches. At this point you can cut away.

I prefer to do them in sections so will remove the trunk pan and replace it and then move onto the front pans, or I will do one side at a time. However as has been stated, you can take a lot away without too much issue. I wouldn't remove the floor and then the roof skin without some bracing but other that you should be good.

I like putting the stands under the rockers and keeping an eye on the door fitment, that can give you a good indication of movement.

 

[eldubb440]

all good advice ^^^^^^^^^ .......... yeah, don't remove everything at once

 

[Moparkrazed]

The factory panes didn't fit perfect either so don't worry about that. Depending on how much you are planning to do at one, I would get the car on jack stands in 6 spots, 4 under the passenger compartment under the rocker panels and then 2 up front under the frame where the front bumper attaches and then 2 under the back frame where the rear bumper attaches. At this point you can cut away.

I prefer to do them in sections so will remove the trunk pan and replace it and then move onto the front pans, or I will do one side at a time. However as has been stated, you can take a lot away without too much issue. I wouldn't remove the floor and then the roof skin without some bracing but other that you should be good.

I like putting the stands under the rockers and keeping an eye on the door fitment, that can give you a good indication of movement.

Thanks for the input. I’m working outside as my shop won’t be finished until sometime toward the end of this coming year. But I can get some boards and lay on the ground and put the car on stands to be safe. I only plan on doing the front and rear floor pans right now. I was originally going to do the left and right sections but it was around $100 cheaper to buy the full front pan with tunnel so I’ll be doing the whole thing. I want to have the floors welded in within the next month or so then in the spring so the trunk pan then the only thing left (welding wise) is replacing the driver quarter panel and Dutchman panel.
The outside wheel well lip is rusted through but the rest seems solid. Think I should just patch that so the quarter would have something to weld to? Awesome work on your 71 charger as well, I’ve read a few of your posts.

 

[Moparkrazed]

all good advice ^^^^^^^^^ .......... yeah, don't remove everything at once

Haha yeah that wouldn’t be good at all. I’m about halfway through your post you sent me. Great work! Thanks for sending this link, a lot of good info in there.

 

[Cranky]

Haha yeah that wouldn’t be good at all. I’m about halfway through your post you sent me. Great work! Thanks for sending this link, a lot of good info in there.

I assume the engine/trans is out of the car.....?

 

[Moparkrazed]

I assume the engine/trans is out of the car.....?

Yes, engine is out and no transmission ( didn’t come with one). I do have the trans crossmember attached to help keep things squared up. Also still have the rear in it.