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Internals in the main housing are all assembled and the gasket and cover was installed. On the cover two of the bolts are left out. One is for the limited slip tag and the other bolt is for the ratio tag. Most will argue that the ratio tag and bolt was painted with the housing but I have them both ways. Those bolts are zinc phosphates and when the fluid was put in they got a yellow daub of paint. The tube ends and the snubber pad are not painted they remain natural steel. The same goes for the drain plus that was natural steel and placed later down the line. You will notice the factory markings and the paper axle strap in place. I forgot to mention prior to painting I installed the inner axle tube seals. Notice the painted red plug. That surface rust on the tube ends was removed later....The pinion nut and washer are not the original ones. It was the wait game for them to come back from the plater.
Getting the axles prepped...Tinkens bearings and seal are from Brewers Performance. The Green daub on the axle end is for the passenger side and the red daub is for the drivers side axle. The passenger side studs are originals and were sent out for zinc phosphate and the ends have an R on each stud. The Driver side has the left hand thread studs and these are newness from Frank Badalson and they have an L on each stud end. My little harbor freight press got these on easy peasy...Like my rubber band trick?
Backing plates....These can be a heated debate....There is not one single answer. Phosphate, painted, or some funky old greenish finish done back in the day....I was told by an old schooler that it was a type of zinc that due to the EPA no one does anymore and as it aged it changed hues. It that correct who knows. I choose what I thought was more correct and that was black phosphate. All backing plates has a date code. Some are readable and some may not be readable. All four of my plates have readable dates. The rears have the date 10 week for 68.
These were also cleaned the same way as the rear end prior to shipping in the hopes to find any markings and it did...
Original Yoke all cleaned up and in natural steel finish. I simply degreased the yoke and soaked it in evaporust overnight. I polished the ring with 0000 steel wool and coated it with Boeshield. A NOS seal was utilized for correctness. The axles straps were finished in the same manner. They have the date 6/24/68 and the hardware was sent out for zinc phosphate. I will take a picture of them and the pinion nut tomorrow in there finished state...
Here is the original pinion nut installed and the U joint straps cleaned up. Also, the four "H" head bolts and washers in zinc phosphate installed. I was missing two of those bolts and it took forever to locate them. Thanks to Vegascharger on DC.com I got them finally!
Dana Snubber was pretty straight forward and in pristine shape. Degreased, cleaned and soaked in evaporust overnight. Lightly rubbed with steel wool and rust treated with Boeshield...Hardware got zinc phosphate.
Rear wheel cylinders were rebuilt and resleeved with stainless steel. The bleeder screws are original equipment and are zinc phosphate. Each one has a white paint daub on the top originally. The rubber end cap seals are NOS. First two picture are after I cleaned them and soaked in ER prior to sending them to Brake and Equipment Warehouse. Notice how they are not pitted, these are not NOS....Notice the cleaning to the metal finish they did, Awesome! The wheel cylinder bolts will be shown later and they got zinc phosphate.
So moving on to the brake shoes. I searched high and low for an NOS set with no luck but if I ever do find one I will change the shoes out. The guys at National Moparts hooked me up with the Mopar Canadian reman shoes from the 70's. Whats the difference? Reman shoes do not have the correct tan pads bonded due to the fact of the runner down the middle of the pad. These do have the pentstar logo's which is correct but the pads are not. When I get to the front shoes I have an NOS set and will show the difference in the shoes.
I also replaced the weld marks with a bluing agent. These shoes received a brownish rust inhibitor coating on the frames. I recreated a similar look with an added protection. What I used was good old Indian Head shellac. Rubbed it all over the frame and took a brush with lacquer thinner to achieve the desired look. Hard as a rock and sealed out the elements!
All 3 cables were non pitted and in restorable shape. Repro's are incorrect and NOS is impossible to find(I tried). Same process of cleaning and soaked in ER and lots of elbow grease with a red pad an steel wool...Once finished they got my usual rust treatment.
In line tube brake lines were mated to the original lines. They were not too far off. Stainless steel of course instead of natural steel. Original "T" was pitched and replace with an NOS one. Brake hose...uggh...impossible to find NOS, if I ever do it will be changed. However, for now is a NOS flex hose for the 71 model year I got from AMS obsolete. It is one thing to find a nice hose with good CAD and hose marking but then they are dated....PITA....This one is dated for 1975...The tape over the brake "T" breather hole I have heard about and also ECS discussed this on his site and it was placed during assembly at the factory. When they installed the T and breather they were supposed to tear this off but sometimes it did not happen. Underneath, the T on mine had some remnants that may have been this. I thought it would be a nice added touch.
I ate my Wheaties that morning...Picked it up by myself and set ever so gently on it's transporter......I have picked up heavier things!
All original brake hardware was in great shape and no pitting. Some was sent out for plating and painting. Few pieces were left in a natural metal finish. NOS brake hardware kit was utilized. The (right) emergency brake arm has the correct date 295 day of 68. The manual adjusters are the correct OE ones and the easiest way to tell is the knurling on the end of the long portion. Anything else is an aftermarket version.