Found this writeup on how to convert your Amp gauge to a Volt meter.

[BeepBeepRR]

Looks like its very doable for even a numb nuts like me. I have an old amp gauge and an old voltage gauge laying around I will see if I can do this with a video.

https://moparconnectionmagazine.com/how-to-convert-an-ammeter-to-a-voltmeter-on-the-cheap/

Moderator should sticky this link. Useful for lots of people.

Link to voltage gauge they used.
https://www.boschperformance.com/pr...lectrical-voltmeter-gauge-white-face-fst-8205

 

[davek]

Let me ask you this,if all the wires are new why would I want to bypass the alternator gauge? I dont drive the Bee at night.The reason I ask is Im going to switch out my cluster with a restored one in a couple weeks.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Let me ask you this,if all the wires are new why would I want to bypass the alternator gauge? I dont drive the Bee at night.The reason I ask is I'm going to switch out my cluster with a restored one in a couple weeks.

This is not something you HAVE to do but just remember there is always a risk of melting the bulkhead connector somewhere in the future. So take it for what it is. The volt gauge modification would be perfect for this MAD modification if you bypass the amp gauge. You could then use a volt meter instead of the amp gauge to know your voltage. Thus the need for the gauge modification.

Even with the new harness. I would suspect the entire load of the vehicle going through that spade connector in the bulk head connector is still a potential for melting the bulkhead block. Even doing the bolt the wires together thing still puts that load going through that spade connector. I often wondered why in the MAD drawings they didn't just drill out the bulkhead block and run the wire straight through and still retain the amp gauge. But now I see why in Drawing B.

They pretty much just bolt the wires together and bypass the amp gauge. Looking at the drawings below they show the power distribution is cut short from the alternator and it goes directly to the starter relay.

This is why they no longer use the amp gauge. You cut out the weak link which is the spade connector.

But the way the MAD drawing shows they do more than just pass the wire through the bulkhead connector. Here is a link to the MAD page on the Amp gauge. Perhaps they word it better than me.

http://madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

http://madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges2.shtml

 

[davek]

wouldnt you need a splice on engine side if you need to remove engine harness,what to use? A fuse on some kind?

 

[BeepBeepRR]

wouldnt you need a splice on engine side if you need to remove engine harness,what to use? A fuse on some kind?

If you look at drawing B they use fused links.. You can remove them at the starter relay. But the red and black wires won't be removable at the bulkhead connector. Since they tie into the black splice that feeds the fuse panel, light switch and ignition. You could remove the bolt where you tie the red and black together and pull the red into the engine side. But the black would be an issue.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Let me ask you this,if all the wires are new why would I want to bypass the alternator gauge? I dont drive the Bee at night.The reason I ask is Im going to switch out my cluster with a restored one in a couple weeks.

In a stock configuration, by-pass the charge circuit bulkhead terminals (the real weak link in the original design, always has been), check the connections/insulators at the ammeter then leave it alone. The ammeter will provide much more real time charging system status information than a voltmeter if you understand it’s function.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Lol I got a disagree with a how to… that’s awesome.

 

[RM23M9A]

In a stock configuration, by-pass the charge circuit bulkhead terminals (the real weak link in the original design, always has been), check the connections/insulators at the ammeter then leave it alone. The ammeter will provide much more real time charging system status information than a voltmeter if you understand it’s function.

Yeah Hell just throw Farby Dakota guages in it... lol

 

[cj's mopar]

I have a question about this .
Why can't you leave the stock wiring and amp.meter. Connected and just add a 10ga wire from the alt stud to the starter relay.
The alt will then still charge would it not ?

 

[RemCharger]

I have a question about this .
Why can't you leave the stock wiring and amp.meter. Connected and just add a 10ga wire from the alt stud to the starter relay.
The alt will then still charge would it not ?

Yes it would. The Amp gauge would then be disabled.

 

[ChargerChad]

I like the ammeter because it dives towards “d” whenever my windshield wiper motor is shorting out. Then I know to unplug it so I don’t have to use my wife’s car to jump it next time I want to go for a ride, lol. Seems like if I leave it unplugged a few days it goes a week or two without acting stupid. Rinse and repeat.

 

[themechanic]

I just had my Cuda wiring harness rebuilt. I have a new ammeter and intend to keep it. I'm planning on doing this mod eliminating the bulkhead connector problem.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0/all.html

 

[Jonas Nordstrom]

I did it like this. (With new harness/connectors installed at the same time plus dielectric grease.)
I like how the am-meter really shows whats going on.

 

[dragrazor]

Looks like its very doable for even a numb nuts like me. I have an old amp gauge and an old voltage gauge laying around I will see if I can do this with a video.

Gallery: How to Convert an Ammeter to a Voltmeter on the Cheap - Mopar Connection Magazine | A comprehensive daily resource for Mopar enthusiast news, features and the latest Mopar tech

Moderator should sticky this link. Useful for lots of people.

Link to voltage gauge they used.
White Electrical Voltmeter Gauge | 2” Face, 60-degree Sweep

66 Charger build, if my dash was still out I would definitely try this modification. wanted all my OEM gauges to work, even though a new wiring harness, just do not trust the AMP gauge so bypassed it.............. Great article thanks for posting

 

[bing69]

When I got my 69RR a few years back, the wiring block was already melted - but not yet to the point where it wouldn't run. I later replaced the block; but I rerouted the amp gauge wiring away from the block. I bolted the wires from the alt meter together and taped. I've got a set of volt/temp/oil gauges but I haven't installed them yet. Before I install them, I gonna look into the Alt/volt change over.