KidCoronet
Member
After 17 years of deep hibernation I'm finally on the cusp of getting my R/T back on the road. It's taken me 3 years to fix literally everything from front to back but it has been a blast!
Need a little help down the stretch.
Here's what I've got:
Original 440 magnum freshly rebuilt
Mallory Unilite distributor - Mallory Powermaster coil (I added these in 1988)
New bulkhead connector with all of the wires cleaned and in good shape (old one had 2 melted wires!)
New engine wiring harness set up for original points distributor
Ammeter connections look good - all snug and in good shape
Mechanical fuel pump, no big stereo...nothing added to the stock electrical system although a high possibility of adding 1 electric fan (it always ran warm)
My plan:
I have a reman alternator from Napa - 65 amp squareback (was originally 37amp single field roundback) dual field for a 1972 Dodge.
About 15 years ago I purchased and OEM appearing voltage regulator with upgraded electronic internals from DavesMopar Part #ER100 (discontinued but he still has a write about it online)
Run a 10 gauge wire with a 16 gauge (?) fusible link from the alternator battery post to the starter relay to relieve some of the load going to the ammeter
Ground one of the alternator field wires to the alternator case (a bit fuzzy on this with this VR set-up?)
From what I've read if I'd kept the original mechanical voltage regulator, I could have simply grounded one of the Alt field wires and called it good but I do like the idea of using the OEM appearing one - not to mention it should perform better. Just not 100 percent sure if the same plan works for my new solid state VR?
I'm not at all against bypassing the ammeter gauge entirely at some point and installing a voltmeter gauge but right now am looking for the simplest, safest, quickest solution that makes the most sense so I can get the car fired up as soon as possible (I pick up the motor on Monday).
I'm sure I've forgotten to mention something but do you guys think this approach makes sense and if not what adjustments or corrections would you make?
Thank you!!
My voltage regulator:
Need a little help down the stretch.
Here's what I've got:
Original 440 magnum freshly rebuilt
Mallory Unilite distributor - Mallory Powermaster coil (I added these in 1988)
New bulkhead connector with all of the wires cleaned and in good shape (old one had 2 melted wires!)
New engine wiring harness set up for original points distributor
Ammeter connections look good - all snug and in good shape
Mechanical fuel pump, no big stereo...nothing added to the stock electrical system although a high possibility of adding 1 electric fan (it always ran warm)
My plan:
I have a reman alternator from Napa - 65 amp squareback (was originally 37amp single field roundback) dual field for a 1972 Dodge.
About 15 years ago I purchased and OEM appearing voltage regulator with upgraded electronic internals from DavesMopar Part #ER100 (discontinued but he still has a write about it online)
Run a 10 gauge wire with a 16 gauge (?) fusible link from the alternator battery post to the starter relay to relieve some of the load going to the ammeter
Ground one of the alternator field wires to the alternator case (a bit fuzzy on this with this VR set-up?)
From what I've read if I'd kept the original mechanical voltage regulator, I could have simply grounded one of the Alt field wires and called it good but I do like the idea of using the OEM appearing one - not to mention it should perform better. Just not 100 percent sure if the same plan works for my new solid state VR?
I'm not at all against bypassing the ammeter gauge entirely at some point and installing a voltmeter gauge but right now am looking for the simplest, safest, quickest solution that makes the most sense so I can get the car fired up as soon as possible (I pick up the motor on Monday).
I'm sure I've forgotten to mention something but do you guys think this approach makes sense and if not what adjustments or corrections would you make?
Thank you!!
My voltage regulator: