Freeze Plug Problem

[MoparHusker]

I was just finishing up the last flush on the 440 and noticed a stream of water coming from under the car (73 Charger). I slid under there and the leak is coming from behind the passenger side motor mount. I can’t get a good look at it, even using my endoscope, but I am pretty sure I saw a rust hole on the freeze plug.

I really did not want to have to pull the engine. I was wondering if there is a way to remove the motor mount to get it out of the way and change out the freeze plug?

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

I've replaced literally hundreds of freeze plugs in the car.... Unbolt the mount, jack the engine up, remove the mount, remove the plug replace the plug & reassemble the car... Sounds easy... It's not... But it is 100% doable...

Some guys use rubber freeze plugs, I won't seen to many pop out... There are copper/brass expanding plugs, I've used them & never had one fail.. But mostly I put cupped plugs back in the hole...

 

[MoparLeo]

Remember that the engine has many more core plugs. They are just waiting their turn to leak. You should take a good lookat the condition of the rest of the cooling system.
Radiator core etc...Replace them at your convenience....not theirs.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

And while they are out it's a great time to take a garden hose and flush the block... Stuff that typically won't come out when you flush the cooling system cause it's heavy & stays in the lower part of the block will flush out easily cause with the freeze plugs out the lower areas of the cooling system are open..

 

[69Chargerdriver]

I've replaced them in cars...not easy as previously mentioned but it is possible. If one leaked you may want to check the others, they may not be far behind...

 

[Steven Bowers]

Personally, if these are the original plugs in the engine you should most likely seriously consider pulling the engine out now….do a complete plug change…heads included…..Brass is recommended..but as stated you can change the one leaking now by jacking the engine up but also as stated sounds easy …not, and time consuming…if you take it to the shop pull your credit card out…nothing cheap anymore…..the real mess you have is if the plug in the rear of the blocks goes …tranny and bell housing removal….lots of fun…..been there and done that one…..

 

[1 Wild R/T]

the real mess you have is if the plug in the rear of the blocks goes …tranny and bell housing removal….lots of fun…..been there and done that one…..

It's a 440, they don't have plugs in the back... Well not in the block, the heads do.. Pulling the engine isn't a bad call, but he asked if it could be done in the car..

 

[MoparHusker]

Thank you for the responses!

Well, after crawling back under the car, it looks like there is a bracket attached to the k member and then you have the motor mount attached to the engine and is bolted to the bracket on the k member. It looks like even if I can get the motor mount out, I am not sure if I will have enough room to work between the k member bracket and the engine.

As much as it pains me to say, I may not have a choice but to pull the engine. I was hoping to avoid doing that.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

As was discussed above, pulling the engine is the best choice.. But it can be done in the car..

If you pull the engine it becomes a good time to re-gasket & re-seal the engine & components... New belts & hoses.. plugs & wires...Motor mounts.. Knock all the freeze plugs out & throughly flush the block... Don't forget to replace the freeze plugs in the heads, there are four per head, one at each end & two behind the exhaust manifold..

Could even throw some paint on the engine after cleaning it up some...

 

[OKDart]

As long as it's out, check the bearings, maybe pull the heads and check cylinder wear. Might as well just disassemble and hot tank the engine, because with a flush, you'll probably still have crap in the engine and fluid will always turn brown. Might as well machine the engine for a rebuild while its at the machine shop. And it's only a few hundred more to get a stroker kit than a stock rebuild. Those stock heads will probably hold that stroker back a little, might as well get aluminum heads, hell, not much more $$ than rebuilding the stock ones anyway. You're gonna want a hotter cam too. Better upgrade the exhaust to take full advantage of the more powerful engine. Your rear gears probably won't work very well with that cam, so get some 3.91 or 4.10. But that won't make highway driving any fun, might consider an overdrive that'll handle the power from your stroker.
Better rebuild/upgrade that suspension or the car might get away from you with all that extra power. And don't forget brakes!

 

[1970lime]

As long as it's out, check the bearings, maybe pull the heads and check cylinder wear. Might as well just disassemble and hot tank the engine, because with a flush, you'll probably still have crap in the engine and fluid will always turn brown. Might as well machine the engine for a rebuild while its at the machine shop. And it's only a few hundred more to get a stroker kit than a stock rebuild. Those stock heads will probably hold that stroker back a little, might as well get aluminum heads, hell, not much more $$ than rebuilding the stock ones anyway. You're gonna want a hotter cam too. Better upgrade the exhaust to take full advantage of the more powerful engine. Your rear gears probably won't work very well with that cam, so get some 3.91 or 4.10. But that won't make highway driving any fun, might consider an overdrive that'll handle the power from your stroker.
Better rebuild/upgrade that suspension or the car might get away from you with all that extra power. And don't forget brakes!

 

[MoparHusker]

As long as it's out, check the bearings, maybe pull the heads and check cylinder wear. Might as well just disassemble and hot tank the engine, because with a flush, you'll probably still have crap in the engine and fluid will always turn brown. Might as well machine the engine for a rebuild while its at the machine shop. And it's only a few hundred more to get a stroker kit than a stock rebuild. Those stock heads will probably hold that stroker back a little, might as well get aluminum heads, hell, not much more $$ than rebuilding the stock ones anyway. You're gonna want a hotter cam too. Better upgrade the exhaust to take full advantage of the more powerful engine. Your rear gears probably won't work very well with that cam, so get some 3.91 or 4.10. But that won't make highway driving any fun, might consider an overdrive that'll handle the power from your stroker.
Better rebuild/upgrade that suspension or the car might get away from you with all that extra power. And don't forget brakes!

Yep, that is about what the thought process is and why I did not want to pull the engine. The car has not run in 25 years, so I just wanted to get it running and enjoy driving it again. Then in five years or so I would start on the extensive work. Much body work is needed and I would also build the engine at that point.

So, if I need to pull the engine, then I may as well look at what options I have for the engine. Did not want to spend the money now, so will have to see what stuff costs. My goal was to hit 500 to 550 HP, so not sure that will happen with a more limited budget. I already bought an 8 3/4 rear, so potentially with updating the engine, all of the drivetrain could be done. Will have to see.

 

[OKDart]

Me personally, minimum, I would change all 3 on the side that's leaking. But it's safe to say the ones on the other side might not be far behind. The plugs on the heads are anyones guess. Best would be brass freeze plugs, In tight spots I've had good luck hammering them in with a socket/U-joint/extension combo. If it's too difficult, the rubber expansion plugs should get you by for a few, maybe several years.

Use a floor jack and a block of wood against the oil pan rail to raise the engine slightly. Then take the bolt out that connects the mount to the K frame. Then jack it up until you have clearance to remove the mount form the engine if necessary. Watch the fan to make sure it doesn't bind on the shroud.

 

[71gtx471]

From freeze plug to new eng. just like that,its fun spending other peoples money.